Changing thermostat. Any firm recommendations?

A12 Mopar Discussions

  1. biomedtechguy

    biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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    I just came back from the "billet water neck" rabbit hole. There are so many! I'm liking the O ring variety. Any comments?
    https://www.manciniracing.com/bispalwane.html
    billet-specialties-aluminum-water-neck-15.gif
     
  2. biomedtechguy

    biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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    Agreed. My intake is the Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl intake, and aluminum absorbs and sheds heat faster than iron, so it would be susceptible to under hood and adjacent parts heat transfer. I do have the N96 hood to help.
    I did the simple math, and 3% of 400 HP is "only" 12 horsepower. I have to take into account the air conditioning I'm about to add too.
    I guess 180° will be a good place to start.
     
  3. RJRENTON

    RJRENTON FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    I agree with your premise re temperature operating range. Smokey Yunick was a great engineer, engine developer, pioneer and an all around good guy.....true to his moniker "Best Damn Garage in Town", his passing was a genuine loss.
    Its amazing the number of people, who contribute to this site, have no real knowledge of the fundamentals of thermodynamics and heat gain heat loss fundamentals relating to engine design and operating conditions, specifically with regard to cooling sydtem velocity, system pressure and circulating volumes. Too many times people just accept the word of some other person as gospel, who seem to accept the "They said rule" without substantiation. Just my opinion of course.
    BOB RENTON
     
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    • biomedtechguy

      biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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    • Hemirunner

      Hemirunner Well-Known Member

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      Agreed. The biggest issue, fuel boiling point, with the higher temps comes into play with a carb much earlier than EFI due to the lower fuel pressures. That’s always been the biggest challenge running at 200 degrees. I run a 180 stat and the car usually maintains 185-190ish.
       
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      • 8formulas

        8formulas Well-Known Member

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        My 440 6 pack had a 160 thermostat in it. The tuning gurus insist on 195. So I listened. Installed a Robert Shaw 195 stat in it and my car HATED it. It ran so hot and pinged. I ordered a brand new Robert Shaw 160 and put it in. My engine runs awesome with this stat.
         
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        • biomedtechguy

          biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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          Good to know as I am about to install a Cold Case radiator. I have a Stant with the little hole in the frame of the stat, but I don't remember the temperature of it because I bought it a few years ago.
          My concern was pinging being induced by a higher operating temperature. Not so concerned about under hood heat because my incomplete N96 setup leaves the hood scoop open, all the time.
          I'd like to try 190 just to prevent the transfer of heat (power) from the combustion chambers to the coolant. That premise does make sense.
          OTOH, I know cool days make for more power, so I don't want to overdo the running temps.
           
        • 8formulas

          8formulas Well-Known Member

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          I wouldn't go with stant. Just personal preference. They look cheaply made. In my opinion, Robert Shaw is the best. But that's just my opinion. Doesn't mean I'm right. Good luck.
           
        • 68 HEMI GTS

          68 HEMI GTS Well-Known Member

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          Absolutely, They make high RVP gas because the injected cars will handle it. It’s full of butane and other light & low octane components. They then use ethanol to get the octane back up so it’s a sellable product. Works fine in your new car but just plane sucks on these old big blocks. I find myself adding race gas to the roadrunner just to prevent vapor lock. Octane wise it doesn’t need it. Let’s not even talk about winter blend.
           
        • 70chall440

          70chall440 Well-Known Member

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          I really like Safe T Thermostats, lock open if the car (engine) overheats, very handy, run them in all my cars.
           
        • themechanic

          themechanic Oklahoma is OK FBBO Gold Member

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        • khryslerkid

          khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          I had this one from Mancini (not the O ring) and after two years it had warped .030.
          https://www.manciniracing.com/mopv8throug1.html

          My thread, and I went back to the factory housing...
          https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/thermostat-housings.176744/page-2

          As far as the temperature of a thermostat goes, my veiwpoint is that the engines ran cooler with the original leaded gas. 10% ethanol runs hotter so the recommended T-stat from your FSM might be too much. The census now days seems to be the 160* to 180* The 180* is what I run and it runs perfect when useing 10% 92 octane.

          You have to remember that your choice will be the opening temperature. Once it's open, it's open. How hot your engine runs after that is dependent on the cooling system. Timing, fuel and your climate will also be a factor.
           
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          • biomedtechguy

            biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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            FWIW it's some "premium" version, mentioned on this forum.
             
          • khryslerkid

            khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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