Charging issue

[DownZero]

Please bear with me. I have searched related threads and I'm still confused.
1969 charger. Factory system. (As far as I know) New battery, alternator, and voltage regulator. No difference from old parts.
Engine running: amp meter shows discharge, 12.2 volts at batt, 10.5 volts at blue wire on
Regulator, 26 + volts at post on alt.
Engine off: 12.2 batt volt. 0 volts at alt stud

What am I missing? Been a while since I dealt with this older system.

 

[oldbee]

Have an ohmmeter? Unhook battery and check every wire from one end to the other for continuity. You could have a broken wire somewhere.

 

[vance.dykes]

 

[vance.dykes]

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Engine off: 12.2 batt volt. 0 volts at alt stud

There is an open in your charge output circuit, should be seeing battery voltage on the alternator stud at rest. With battery voltage at the regulator, would indicate the open is in the engine harness or at the bulkhead connector.

 

[vance.dykes]

 

[DownZero]

May have found the problem. Checked the bulkhead connector and found some melting issues. Who carries these ?

 

[dadsbee]

Megaparts..

https://www.megapartsusa.com/products.php?cat=749

 

[Rusty 72]

I would check the other side of that bulkhead as well. Glad you found it sooner than later.

 

[moparedtn]

I would check the other side of that bulkhead as well. Glad you found it sooner than later.

Yep. May have gotten on the lucky end of a near future fire!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

After a rebuild job... Time to

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

 

[DownZero]

So I have a bulkhead connector on order. Once that is replaced my plan is to install the additional wires as per the diagram. Any downside to using an inline 20 amp fuse instead of the additional fuseable link?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I actually would just use one red wire with thicker fuse link as I updated latelly on same thread. Better just one fuse link.

Or get both red wires linked to just one fuse link. Regular fuses don't hold peaks like fuse links are able.

AND:
- upgrade the alt.
- check amm conditions.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

More readings

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/dissection-and-study-of-a-mopar-ammeter.199179/

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/poll-about-ammeter-reading.198930/

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...d-“ticking-time-bomb”-factory-ammeter.177831/

 

[DownZero]

Would 12 gauge wire be sufficient for the parallel amp wire?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Check that spade on the inside, it must be toast to the ign switch and amp gauge. If so,bypass the amp gauge and install a VOLT gauge somewhere.

 

[DownZero]

So the new bulkhead came in I started the replacement process. The melted terminals are impossible to remove from the connector. Question: what name/number are the wiring connectors, (female), and where can I get them? Normal female connectors would work but they don't have the locking tabs on them to keep them locked into the cavity. Some wires will have to be cut.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

58 series Packard connectors. Better off by-passing those charging system output circuit bulkhead connections altogether.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

How are the wires on the cabin side of the bulkhead?

 

[DownZero]

That's the issue. Three wires/terminals are melted in the cabin side of the connector. Engine side all are fine.