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Charging Mystery - 69 GTX

ToddMcF2002 said:
I'll try that before I return it for education purposes if nothing else. Its going back - I ordered a PowerMaster 7019. I don't see how the unit isn't defective. There is no way to get it wrong correct? The field wires are supposted to interchangeable anyway and besides mounting it the only other connection is the output. There is literally no way to install this thing incorrectly and the car is only providing 12.5V right now. It smoked as soon as the ballast sent power - before I even tried to start it.
Click to expand...

IMO...You are correct in your assumption....the field wires are interchangeable and the output connection. I have no real experience with a Powermaster design but if you follow their instructions it should be a simple installation. There are many subscribers to their attributes and have had success. There are several thoughts about how to correctly install these units to take advantage of the additional power produced, which usually and should include some simple wiring additions. Others will have their own preferences and opinions as to the "best way" to proceed.
BOB RENTON
 
As RJRENTON has correctly described, one those brushes is grounded to the case, likely the one measuring a full 0 ohms continuity to the case. Something about the brush holder and screw head insulating washer is not assembled correctly. The mounting screws/screw heads are not to be in electrical contact with the brush terminal. Not the first time an incorrectly assembled dual isolated field alternator has smoked the igition1 field wire. There are several past threads here describing this same scenario.

The Powermaster 7019 is a roundback dual isolated field 2-grove pulley alternator. Didn’t see A/C lines in the pics, are sure you don’t need a single grove pulley for a non-A/C application? That would be the 7018.
 
72RoadrunnerGTX said:
As RJRENTON has correctly described, one those brushes is grounded to the case, likely the one measuring a full 0 ohms continuity to the case. Something about the brush holder and screw head insulating washer is not assembled correctly. The mounting screws/screw heads are not to be in electrical contact with the brush terminal. Not the first time an incorrectly assembled dual isolated field alternator has smoked the igition1 field wire. There are several past threads here describing this same scenario.

The Powermaster 7019 is a roundback dual isolated field 2-grove pulley alternator. Didn’t see A/C lines in the pics, are sure you don’t need a single grove pulley for a non-A/C application? That would be the 7018.
Click to expand...
I have no A/C at the moment just bought the dual pulley for a possible Vintage Air setup later
 
72RoadrunnerGTX said:
Not the first time an incorrectly assembled dual isolated field alternator has smoked the igition1 field wire.
Click to expand...
Agreed, I just got a Reman 2 field alternator from Summit.Burned up my field wiring harness during start up.:mad:
 
Darter6 said:
Agreed, I just got a Reman 2 field alternator from Summit.Burned up my field wiring harness during start up.:mad:
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Mine started smoking before I got the key past the run position. Was yours ok until it "ran"?
 
So I just returned the alternator and they tested it and said it worked. But I noticed they only hooked up 1 field wire? Tried to ask questions but the “were just following the screen instructions”.
 
A correctly assembled 1970 and later dual isolated field alternator will not have any charge output with a single field connection in a test configuration. One that has one field terminal/brush grounded intentionally or inadvertently will function normally in that test configuration. When you get your Powermaster, you will find it comes with a jumper wire to intentionally ground one terminal for using the 7019 only in a PRE-1970, single field wire, mechanically regulated, application.
 
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This is a cautionary tale to be sure.
If you're replacing the alt on a dual field setup always check that the field windings are isolated from the case.
If you get an alt as pictured in post 34 for a single field setup that has connectors for both fields, verify which one is grounded to the case before installing. I'd also clip the connector off of the grounded brush holder to prevent any accidents in the future.
 
When you got the alternator shown in post 34 it looks like an isolated field alternator because it has the 2 male connectors on the brushes. It 'smoked' because one of the fields was grounded to use the alternator in a single field configuration, and you likely connected the blue wire to that. (If you had connected the blue wire to the side that wasn't grounded you would have caused a 'full field' condition and the alternator would be at max output) Continuity testing would show a ground to case on both terminals because of the field windings. Take the brushes out one at a time to check continuity to the case to see which brush is grounded and which isn't. I would then clip the male terminal off of the grounded brush to make sure I didn't inadvertantly connect the field wire from the regulator directly to ground which may damage the regulator. Even if it didn't damage the regulator, the alternator would never charge because there would be no voltage across the field
 
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Rockland71GTX said:
When you got the alternator shown in post 34 it looks like an isolated field alternator because it has the 2 male connectors on the brushes. It 'smoked' because one of the fields was grounded to use the alternator in a single field configuration, and you likely connected the blue wire to that. (If you had connected the blue wire to the side that wasn't grounded you would have caused a 'full field' condition and the alternator would be at max output) Continuity testing would show a ground to case on both terminals because of the field windings. Take the brushes out one at a time to check continuity to the case to see which brush is grounded and which isn't. I would then clip the male terminal off of the grounded brush to make sure I didn't inadvertantly connect the field wire from the regulator directly to ground which may damage the regulator. Even if it didn't damage the regulator, the alternator would never charge because there would be no voltage across the field
Click to expand...

EXCELLENT ANALYSIS and presentation. Just be careful when installing and connecting the Powermaster unit. In addition, if you are going to take advantage of the additional power produced by the Powermaster unit, analyze the how's and why's of installing higher capacity wiring and your ultimate requirements b4 proceeding. Please advise us of your resolution.....
BOB RENTON
 
PowerMaster - I have to admit I practically held my breath checking to see if these terminals were grounded to the unit. Checks out! Will install it tomorrow

AB664246-F8DB-451C-B996-BF39E39AD06B.jpeg
 
ToddMcF2002 said:
PowerMaster - I have to admit I practically held my breath checking to see if these terminals were grounded to the unit. Checks out! Will install it tomorrow

View attachment 1193031
Click to expand...

EXCELLENT RESOLUTION to a problem. Its unfortunate that the original alternator rebuilder caused you so much grief and ultimately $$$.
BOB RENTON
 
I’m finding my adjustment to Mopar being primarily a Ford guy is a bit of an adventure
 
It’s all good just an adjustment. Stole few minutes for the install and woot! She’s charging at idle at 14.52 volts. Victory!

908384CE-4C50-4EE0-8B38-893012D5743D.jpeg
 
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