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Clarification on stock sizes for wheel studs, please

Funny thing about the measurements. They omit the most important one... the diameter of the knurled part.
True dat.
I never got an answer on my last question, either - is the hub for the 10" brakes the same as for the 11" ones??
 
I’m doing 10” front drums on my Satellite, and the bolt circle holes are .625. They are bigger where the swedge was. .635 in places. I ordered the .65 ones they had PN 610-122. I’ll have to drill or team the holes to about .638. The new drums I got are .635. I’m not sure what everything was supposed be originally.
 
I’m doing 10” front drums on my Satellite, and the bolt circle holes are .625. They are bigger where the swedge was. .635 in places. I ordered the .65 ones they had PN 610-122. I’ll have to drill or team the holes to about .638. The new drums I got are .635. I’m not sure what everything was supposed be originally.
I tell you what - for all the aggravation it has been to try and keep the original drums (and especially the results),
I'm about ready to do a disc conversion just to be done with it all.
 
The only thing standard on wheels studs is the nut. 7/16" x 20 or 1/2" x 20 .
So many different hubs, drums, 14", 15" , over the different models and years. Fronts use a separate hub and swedged on drum.
Rear stud is pressed into the axle flange and the drum slips over etc...

You really didn't think it was that simple.....really?
Simple I always took one steel dowel with a hole in the center slipped in the stud kinda lined up the splines then took a hardened steel washer put it over the sleeve then put on the Lug nut and tightened with the impact, sometimes a ratchet worked every time! I seated those studs nicely!
 
I need five front proper left hand thread studs for my Bendix Rotor/Brake set up? Doman Part # 610/137. Don't know the rear left hand studs but I need five left hand studs for the rear too! The Napa Book # is 6414090 front left studs? The rear left I am not sure fir the rear axle? I just want the proper sizes.
 
I have to get the right ones first. No way I'm putting any of these old ones back in this new hub...

Were there really that many different front stud choices on these cars in a given year, as Dorman indicates
(and of course, since their application chart shows all that, EVERYONE'S application chart shows it).
What's with all that "Kelsey-Hayes brakes" this, "Motor Wheel brakes" that, "Budd brakes" the other?
Didn't all 11" front drum b-bodies have the same hubs, drums...and therefore, studs?
After reading this post and others, it's unfortunate it is all so confusing. I am 61 years old and grew up with Mopars and never really had any issues with Sizes of studs until the left threaded Studs we're ditched. Anyways, seems like there is no standard? I have forgotten so much over the years. I recall the .625 knurl however since this is the only car I have owned with Disk Brakes minus the 1970 Duster. It had disks, however I never snapped Lugs as I understood and would remind those who worked on my car as I would stand near and tell what direction to turn left handed Lug Nuts. Maybe someone should make a Chart showing all sizes. Someone who is well versed with no gaps in Memory. Or knowing where to find the actual different sizes for all the Mopars. I would not think, it would be to hard since there are so many of you with the passion for these cars?
 
I think that has been tried. For 69 b-bodies, there were six different part numbers for wheel studs: right hand for front drums, disc's, and rears, and of course left hand versions of each. The A-bodies have a similar problem, but in 7 /16ths.
Frankly, I would simply change to right hand studs and nuts.... like 99 1/2% of the rest of the world. Finding the "correct" left hand studs and nuts is not worth the effort, to me at least.
 
I think that has been tried. For 69 b-bodies, there were six different part numbers for wheel studs: right hand for front drums, disc's, and rears, and of course left hand versions of each. The A-bodies have a similar problem, but in 7 /16ths.
Frankly, I would simply change to right hand studs and nuts.... like 99 1/2% of the rest of the world. Finding the "correct" left hand studs and nuts is not worth the effort, to me at least.
Not only that, but as I discovered on my own journey with this nonsense, some of the stud sizes simply can't
be bought anymore either (the last supplier, Dorman, dropped them).
 
I think that has been tried. For 69 b-bodies, there were six different part numbers for wheel studs: right hand for front drums, disc's, and rears, and of course left hand versions of each. The A-bodies have a similar problem, but in 7 /16ths.
Frankly, I would simply change to right hand studs and nuts.... like 99 1/2% of the rest of the world. Finding the "correct" left hand studs and nuts is not worth the effort, to me at least.
That's Correct I have been hitting up some of my old Haunts just to see what is left from the "Real Auto Parts stores" we still have a few left.
 
That's Correct I have been hitting up some of my old Haunts just to see what is left from the "Real Auto Parts stores" we still have a few left.

DSC_3298.JPG
 
I'm keeping my left hand threads on my mopars (at least some of them)
The 33 Imperials, and the 49 business coupe use left hand BOLTS, into threads in the drums , to hold the wheels on. The A12, has exposed studs, so the "L" on the stud needs to be there, cause the A12 guys are gonna look. The 62 needs 3" studs, and so does the Barracuda, so they automatically got RH threads.
Practicality drives my decision.
Right hand studs solve the left hand thread problem.
 
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