Clutch fork removal / re-install???

[65_Satellite]

Hey all I need some help!
I read through some of the other posts and couldn’t quite find what I’m looking for. Some of you may be following my photo garage 4spd swap. I just ended up purchasing a new z-bar and the correct bell housing pivot ball stud. After install the correct parts, I now realize that the clutch fork pivot bracket inside the bell is incorrect. The one in there, angles the fork slightly down and it won’t align with the factory z-bar.

I did use an old z-bar and fabricated it to be slightly longer and it lines up but I’m told that it is interfering with the clutch linkage geometry and will make the clutch hard to use.

Here is how the modified z-bar lines up now

It was suggested to replace the clutch fork pivot bracket in the bell with the correct one and use the correct (un-altered) z-bar. My question is how can I remove the clutch fork while the trans is still installed? I don’t want to pry on the throw out bearing or the input shaft. IF I can get it out, it will be easy to change the pivot bracket but then HOW can I re-install the fork?? I REALLY don’t want to pull the tranny again as everything had been reinstalled under the car.

 

[DodgeBoy5150]

If you have enough room--the clutch fork should pull off of the pivot and the throw out bearing--as per the FSM.

 

[65_Satellite]

If you have enough room--the clutch fork should pull off of the pivot and the throw out bearing--as per the FSM.
View attachment 1243092

Yes I know how it comes off, I was inquiring to if it’s possible to remove it while still in the car? I don’t have a lot of room to pull it off cause my headers are in the way. I didn’t know if there was a trick to it to get leverage

 

[DodgeBoy5150]

Yes I know how it comes off, I was inquiring to if it’s possible to remove it while still in the car? I don’t have a lot of room to pull it off cause my headers are in the way. I didn’t know if there was a trick to it to get leverage

Gotcha. I couldn't quite tell from the pictures--sounds like you might have to remove the header--sorry.

 

[Daves69]

I've never measured but I'm thinking it likely takes a couple inches to remove off the pivot and release bearing pads.
I'd push the fork back as far possible and try to gauge what's available. The radius on the fork backside will add to your clearance issue.
The pivot can be a bit tedious to change in car as well.
Getting the fork back on will be even more difficult.

 

[gkent]

Just my opinion but I don't see the pivot bracket being incorrect. I seem to recall the fork does angle down. And when the z-bar goes through its motion it aligns with the fork. Keep in mind as the z-bar arm moves through its arc the force required to move it decreases - which is exactly what you want. Lengthening your arm was a BIG mistake and will take a lot of effort to depress the clutch. From the looks of it you've just increased the effort to depress your clutch by 50% !!

 

[bandit67]

Just went thru a lot of your troubles installing a 4 speed back into a 73 where a PO had installed an automatic. All my acquired parts failed to line up correctly also. Dan Brewers website is a major help in identifying what you have verses what you need. I had him on the phone several times and he was spot on correct getting the right stuff to me, quick. Big relief when it all lined up as expected. I pulled my clutch fork out in checking on pivot bracket and there was NO way to put it back on with the tranny bolted in. When you get room, no header interference , one good snatch and it will pop out. But, no way was mine going back in. So, pulled the tranny back out, fork in, tranny back in. Now I had installed a diaphragm clutch instead of the Borg and Beck style so if your using one of those the throwout bearing MAY allow you enough room to put the fork back on without pulling the tranny. As several here had told me, Dan Brewer is awesome at getting you what is needed, big shout out from me.

 

[65_Satellite]

If you have enough room--the clutch fork should pull off of the pivot and the throw out bearing--as per the FSM.
View attachment 1243092

That’s what I’m wondering. There is room to pull it out, I just can’t get any leverage to pull it and I don’t want to pry against the throw out bearing or the input shaft. Then if I get it out, how hard is it to go back in and mine everything up

 

[65_Satellite]

Just my opinion but I don't see the pivot bracket being incorrect. I seem to recall the fork does angle down. And when the z-bar goes through its motion it aligns with the fork. Keep in mind as the z-bar arm moves through its arc the force required to move it decreases - which is exactly what you want. Lengthening your arm was a BIG mistake and will take a lot of effort to depress the clutch. From the looks of it you've just increased the effort to depress your clutch by 50% !!

The way the new z bar was put the bar about 2.5” above the line of the fork. There was absolutely no way the adjustment rod would attach. Even if I tried, the adjustment rod would be almost at a 45 degree angle and pressing the clutch pedal down would not even move the fork based on the angle

 

[bandit67]

I also had the wrong z bar. A 70-72 bar did not work for a 73, Dan had the correct one. You need the correct z bar to the correct bell housing to the correct year body. What z bar that works with an aluminum bell housing will not work for a cast iron bell in many cases I learned.

 

[65_Satellite]

I also had the wrong z bar. A 70-72 bar did not work for a 73, Dan had the correct one. You need the correct z bar to the correct bell housing to the correct year body. What z bar that works with an aluminum bell housing will not work for a cast iron bell in many cases I learned.

Yes I did purchase the correct z-bar and bellhousing pivot ball from Dan. Problem is that after everything was installed (trans, crossmember, driveshaft, etc) I went to install the correct parts and realized that the pivot bracket inside the bell must be wrong cause it positions the fork 1.5” lower than it should. Dan said it’s the wrong one and has the correct bracket but I’m trying to avoid removing the entire trans again especially since I’m on my back doing all this.

 

[Daves69]

.....I just can’t get any leverage to pull it and I don’t want to pry against the throw out bearing or the input shaft.....

The heavy load is the fork spring going over the pivot. Deburr the pivot edges and grease it along with the fork backside and spring. The rounded bearing clips will roll over the fork tips fairly easy. The problem there is keeping the bearing as far forward as you can and keeping it from turning, causing one clip to not engage as you force the fork onto the pivot.

Maybe fab a lever to help you push the fork on..............

 

[AR67GTX]

I’m suspicious of that being the correct z-bar for your year and model. I understand your reason for lengthening the arm in trying to make it work, but doing so shortens/quickens the action and increases the pedal effort. You shouldn't have to do that with the correct z-bar.

 

[65_Satellite]

I’m suspicious of that being the correct z-bar for your year and model. I understand your reason for lengthening the arm in trying to make it work, but doing so shortens/quickens the action and increases the pedal effort. You shouldn't have to do that with the correct z-bar.

I have the correct z-bar but it didn’t line up with the fork cause I think I have the wrong pivot fork in the bell. The correct pivot would raise the fork up to line up with the correct z bar. I didn’t want to remove the trans to change the pivot so modified my old z bar thinking that would work.

 

[Daves69]

.

 

[65_Satellite]

Im just looking to see if there is any way possible to remove the fork, change the pivot in the bell and re-install the fork without pulling the tranny. This thing is literally all back together. Tranny is in, the crossmember, driveshaft, shifter and exhaust is all back in. If I have to pull the tranny to do this, then EVERYTHING has to get undone again and Im honestly hoping I don't have to do that.

 

[hunt2elk]

Im just looking to see if there is any way possible to remove the fork, change the pivot in the bell and re-install the fork without pulling the tranny. This thing is literally all back together. Tranny is in, the crossmember, driveshaft, shifter and exhaust is all back in. If I have to pull the tranny to do this, then EVERYTHING has to get undone again and Im honestly hoping I don't have to do that.

What you are wanting to do can be done with the trans still installed. The biggest issue is making sure the top clip on the throw out bearing is where it is supposed to be. I have used a small mirror and an angled pick to get it in place.

 

[bandit67]

The fork HAS to come out. With a pry bar thru the clutch fork hole and correct leverage you should be able to pop it out. Then install your correct pivot bracket. With that in place you may be able to slide the throwout bearing far enough into the pressure plate to slip the fork back in. Mine was all correct, but would not. If you can make a pry bar that will allow you to force the bearing to move into the pressure plate an eighth of an inch or so, you may be able to slip the fork back in. If not, unbolting and sliding the tranny back an inch or may not give you the room needed and it will all have to come out. Mine did.

 

[65_Satellite]

The fork HAS to come out. With a pry bar thru the clutch fork hole and correct leverage you should be able to pop it out. Then install your correct pivot bracket. With that in place you may be able to slide the throwout bearing far enough into the pressure plate to slip the fork back in. Mine was all correct, but would not. If you can make a pry bar that will allow you to force the bearing to move into the pressure plate an eighth of an inch or so, you may be able to slip the fork back in. If not, unbolting and sliding the tranny back an inch or may not give you the room needed and it will all have to come out. Mine did.

Ok so the bearing needs to be as far forward to the pressure plate in order for it to unclip and clip to the fork?

 

[65_Satellite]

What you are wanting to do can be done with the trans still installed. The biggest issue is making sure the top clip on the throw out bearing is where it is supposed to be. I have used a small mirror and an angled pick to get it in place.

Is there a specific position the throw out bearing needs to be in order to get the fork in and out? Does the bearing need to be all the way forward, all the way back or does it not matter?