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clutch kit recommendation

.........think I will stick with the original style, less chance of any compatibility issues.

IMO, With some of this product being shipped these days, where you can, you should try to inspect what you receive. A lot of people just install a clutch kit assuming it's fine. It's not always the case. The last DC 3100# "green" pressure plate I bought, I ended up with a different PN unit said to be the "new replacement" part. I found one of the finger installed heights off about .050" on my .310" standard.
A visual look at the relationship of the clutch cover to the working area of the plate to verify it's centered. Release bearing the same length as the one you remove and spans the fingers correctly. Check for high spots around the disc with a caliper. Bent or worn tips on the fork. Bent, cracked, or worn fork pivot.

Some old but useful info....
DC_ClutchTrans_Race_Bulletin.pdf (mymopar.com)
 
Okay, now you're considering something other than a stock or stock heavy duty set-up, which, again, if you're not racing is unnecessary. So, if that's the case, I'm with Doug (dwf). I run a CenterForce Dual Friction clutch set-up in my Fury and it is the best clutch I've run in a street/strip car ever! Over 55 years of experience with street/strip, racing and selling speed equipment...Your money. BTW, a stock clutch will handle an occasional burnout or street encounter just fine. More than that, or too much rpm and , like was said, watch your feet for shrapnel...
 
Just a random lessons learned - everyone buys tons of stuff off Amazon anymore but car parts are not a good idea unless you can get them installed and verify they perform OK right away. I bought a McLeod clutch off Amazon a couple years ago and of course by the time I got the car torn down, transmission rebuilt and all put back together it was well over 30 days. Tried to back the car out of the garage and it chattered like a SOB so I drove it around the block and right back up on the lift to remove. I won't go into all the details but the plate in the pressure plate was unevenly hung in the hat. Tried to return and the seller said I needed to go to back on McLeod. Contacted McLeod and they said the seller was not an authorized dealer and that clutch was manufactured several years ago and apparently been sitting somewhere a long time. They said they would look at it if I wanted to ship it to them on my nickel. Didn't have much choice so I did and they inspected it and sent me a new one without further cost. But I don't buy car parts on Amazon anymore unless it's something I can evaluate immediately upon receipt.
 
Just a random lessons learned - everyone buys tons of stuff off Amazon anymore but car parts are not a good idea unless you can get them installed and verify they perform OK right away. I bought a McLeod clutch off Amazon a couple years ago and of course by the time I got the car torn down, transmission rebuilt and all put back together it was well over 30 days. Tried to back the car out of the garage and it chattered like a SOB so I drove it around the block and right back up on the lift to remove. I won't go into all the details but the plate in the pressure plate was unevenly hung in the hat. Tried to return and the seller said I needed to go to back on McLeod. Contacted McLeod and they said the seller was not an authorized dealer and that clutch was manufactured several years ago and apparently been sitting somewhere a long time. They said they would look at it if I wanted to ship it to them on my nickel. Didn't have much choice so I did and they inspected it and sent me a new one without further cost. But I don't buy car parts on Amazon anymore unless it's something I can evaluate immediately upon receipt.
Be careful of who you buy from like what was pointed out. Not getting the flywheel turned can cause chatter. Also the friction material used can do it and if the disc has no Marcel, which is a wavy spring that is between the friction faces, can cause chatter as you cannot slip it. Choose your clutch wisely.
 
Ram clutches are pretty good for stock applications. I melted my last Ram clutch disc and ruined the pressure plate, but that was totally my fault (doing burn outs, don’t ask).

I just picked up a LUK flywheel/disc/pressure plate/tb combo. I’ll let you know once I get it installed and some time on it.

View attachment 1057195
Where did you get the Luk clutch package ? I’ve can’t see to find it .
Thanks
 
Two of us here with a lot of experience have both told you the Center Force is the best we've ever used. Again, they work very well. Zero complaints.
Doug
 
I'll throw in another vote for the Center Force dual friction. I have them in 2 cars and really like everything about them.
 
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Two of us here with a lot of experience have both told you the Center Force is the best we've ever used. Again, they work very well. Zero complaints.
Doug
Hear what you’re saying, but they are over my budget. I drive it on weekends in good weather and just cruise, no burnouts or racing. Just want a good plain vanilla replacement. Thanks
 
I'll through in another vote for the Center Force dual friction. I have them in 2 cars and really like everything about them.
Hear what you’re saying, but over my budget. I drive it on weekends in good weather and basically cruise, no burnouts, no racing.A good OEM replacement is all I need.
Thanks
 
Two of us here with a lot of experience have both told you the Center Force is the best we've ever used. Again, they work very well. Zero complaints.
Doug
Do you use that clutch in a race car?
 
Do you use that clutch in a race car?
Its my wife's street Challenger. I raced it a year. It's had over 100 passes at the track on slicks. Been 12.52@110, mufflers air, cleaner, 9.1 360 on 87 octane.
Doug

Debbys Challenger at auto rama.jpg
Debbys Engine.jpg
 
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