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Clutch not disengaging

max340

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I can not figure this out or maybe I have an idea what's wrong here. Brand new Mcleod hyd bearing and Ram pressure plate/clutch from Silver Sport. Here's a pic of the bearing fully engaged (over .50) of travel and another pic of the space in-between the plate and flywheel. Shouldn't this be a bigger gap? Goes into gear easy without the engine running but tough while running almost like there's no clutch at all. I'd love to talk to someone with good experience here. I'm perfect with 727's but rookie with manual stuff. Thanks!!

IMG_5350.jpg IMG_5352.jpg
 
It certainly appears you have enough disc clearance. Is something else causing a drag on the input shaft? Try turning the transmission with the clutch pedal depressed to spin the clutch disc.
Mike
 
On my conversion there were measurements needed on the throw out bearing mounting. If not correct you had the shim the bearing mounting. Otherwise there was not enough movement to fully disengage the clutch. Mine was a complete Keisler 5 speed conversion.
 
That bearing is very specific on the install based on the bellhousing measurement. Also, I assume that you indexed the bellhousing to motor. That was a new one to me also but .005” was the allowance. If this is out of spec it could make hard shifting.
 
Also, do you have a clutch pedal stop? If so, you may need to allow for more pedal travel. If not, you need one or you will blowout the master cylinder with over travel.
 
Also, do you have a clutch pedal stop? If so, you may need to allow for more pedal travel. If not, you need one or you will blowout the master cylinder with over travel.
Have used pedal stops even on mechanical setups......
 
Looks like plenty of clearance, I only propose this because you mentioned your not as familiar with manual stuff. Was the disc clearly marked flywheel side ? Disc won't function if installed flipped.
 
Did the clutch kit come with instructions and 'feeler gauge' clearances?
 
On my conversion there were measurements needed on the throw out bearing mounting. If not correct you had the shim the bearing mounting. Otherwise there was not enough movement to fully disengage the clutch. Mine was a complete Keisler 5 speed conversion.
Yes. I had it 0.125 then after a few pushes on the pedal it went to almost touching.
 
Looks like plenty of clearance, I only propose this because you mentioned your not as familiar with manual stuff. Was the disc clearly marked flywheel side ? Disc won't function if installed flipped.
Thats what I thought initially that I had the flywheel on backwards but I don't think it's possible with the offset mounting holes
 
Think I'm just gonna have to pull everything off and see where I fucked up. Thanks you guys for the responses.
 
No feeler gauge included in the kit.
Uh, you should have your own set of feeler gauges.....if you are going to do this kind of work on cars, you need to up your tools.....just saying.
 
Nice thanks. I talked with the guys at Mcleod and they said that their hydraulic clutch is designed to ride on the fingers which mine is so close to doing. I can reach up and spin the bearing with my fingers.
Right they all do. But if you did not set yours up like the instructions say you may not have enough travel on a full pedal stroke.
 
Right they all do. But if you did not set yours up like the instructions say you may not have enough travel on a full pedal stroke.
This bearing is not shimmed. You spin it on the input shaft and it moves in or out.
 
Thats what I thought initially that I had the flywheel on backwards but I don't think it's possible with the offset mounting holes
The friction disc, not flywheel. The disc is usually marked “flywheel side” so it is oriented properly
 
This bearing is not shimmed. You spin it on the input shaft and it moves in or out.
I think you are wrong. Not seeing your bearing on the bench it is hard to give you exact information. Did you measure like the instructions say?
 
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