cooling need more cooling.

[440 Charger]

I have a rebuilt 360 with about 500 miles on her.9-1 30 over speed pro pistons, 3 row rad with shroud, 170 stat, a/c water pump, my car is no longer an a/c car.pull the cap good flow at idle.7 blade clutch fan.my problem is when we are cruising around the temp goes to half way on my factory gauge, but if i get stuck in traffic it keeps climbing very close to hot on my gauge .last year with the old stock 318 never went half way.WHAT TO DO,4 row rad?

Check the fan and shroud they are important.

 

[Mike67]

When is the last time you did a complete system flush? Not a drain refill.
Agrre that pushers are not that good and can actually restrict air at speed.

 

[ddpsnake]

Bob at Glen-Ray radiators told me that a clutch fan should only make about 1.5 -2 turns coasting when you spin it by hand. Also He says your fan should not be more than 1/2" - 3/4" away from the radiator. Maybe you need a longer shaft clutch fan to get it where it needs to be.

interesting

When is the last time you did a complete system flush? Not a drain refill.
Agrre that pushers are not that good and can actually restrict air at speed.

NEVER there is a little calcium around each tube, but the coolant flow good.maybe not as it should.

 

[Thrashingcows]

Bob at Glen-Ray radiators told me that a clutch fan should only make about 1.5 -2 turns coasting when you spin it by hand. Also He says your fan should not be more than 1/2" - 3/4" away from the radiator. Maybe you need a longer shaft clutch fan to get it where it needs to be.

I disagree with Bob...the fan should be sitting 1/2"-1" inside the shroud, not that close to the radiator core INSIDE the shroud. If you did this all you are doing is spinning air inside the shroud and not pulling any air through the radiator.

I had an overheating problem on my 440 years ago, turned out I made a mistake and hooked my distributor vacuum advance up to constant intake vacuum source not ported vacuum, so was pulling total vacuum advance timing right from idle and the motor would over heat. Took me a new replacement radiator, new 7 blade fan, new clutch, thermostat, coolant with water wetter etc....before i realized my mistake.

 

[diesel_lv]

A fan can be 6" back from a radiator core, as long as it is approximately half in n half out of the shroud. It will pull air through the shroud and core the same. Here are some generic specs.

 

[440 Charger]

All calories in and out to be basic. Have yet to run a stat here they stay 160 easy mot sure what you are asking Timing?

 

[440 Charger]

A fan can be 6" back from a radiator core, as long as it is approximately half in n half out of the shroud. It will pull air through the shroud and core the same. Here are some generic specs. View attachment 1127607

very nice.

 

[440 Charger]

A fan can be 6" back from a radiator core, as long as it is approximately half in n half out of the shroud. It will pull air through the shroud and core the same. Here are some generic specs. View attachment 1127607

If you actual pull air dont think it matters. have you seen most of the races use puller and push for the air its all heat transfer.

 

[diesel_lv]

If you actual pull air dont think it matters. have you seen most of the races use puller and push for the air its all heat transfer.

I don't look at race cars. They aren't street driven. I look at the science, not Billy Bob's opinion n "it worked for me" backyard mechanics.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

can you post a link for the dual electric puller fan / shroud setup you ordered?

The fact that it stays cool while cruising tells you the fan isn't moving enough air although other things like your tune could be contributing to it. This also tells you that you don't need a bigger radiator just more air.

I had the same problem, I was running a clutch fan with a shroud and it would slowly climb in stop and go traffic. Knowing all else was good I switched over to dual electric fans (pullers).. no more problems. I'd at least play with it until the motor is fully broke in to see if it cools down a bit.

Pushers are not a good option, even on electric fans you need a good shroud.. with a pusher they typically don't have shrouds because they would block airflow while cruising. The ones I bought came in a shroud and have rubber flaps that allow more air to pass through while cruising.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

2 related questions to add to the data comparison -

1) what approximate mileage does a new motor need to be broken in enough not to overheat at prolonged idle? My motor has 6500 miles and had been never higher than 195 at a 5 minute stop and 185 at cruise, but last week while stopped for 40 minutes climbed to 250 on my analog gauge. I really need to get an IR gun reading though to confirm accuracy.

2) how hot is TOO hot? Is 230 at idle for 30 min ok? Is 250 at idle for 30 min ok? I had no steam coming out and as soon as traffic cleared and I was up to 40 mph, within 60 seconds temp was back down to 185.

 

[Photon440]

Depends on your setup. If you have a 50/50 water and coolant mix, 250 won't even be at the boiling point with a 10 pound rad cap.

 

[747mopar]

can you post a link for the dual electric puller fan / shroud setup you ordered?

It took a bit of work to squeeze it in there but it works great, 69 Chargers have almost no room in there. I asked around on here and it seemed like around 3,000 cfm was the general consensus, it works.

 

[Moparnocar]

Depends on your setup. If you have a 50/50 water and coolant mix, 250 won't even be at the boiling point with a 10 pound rad cap.

250 is safe on a mopar?? I try to stay around 200

 

[Photon440]

250 is safe on a mopar?? I try to stay around 200

I agree, those higher temperatures are the path to detonation. However, 68 sport Satellite was asking about a hot engine at idle, a less stressful condition.

 

[WileERobby]

First, as correctly stated, be sure the temp is factual, not on a factory gauge. Fan blade halfway into the shroud. Check if the clutch is operating properly. Check if the thermostat is opening properly & opening completely (put it in a pot of water on the stove & observe). Bleed the system for air pockets. Check the hoses for collapse, and if the radiator cap is good.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

It took a bit of work to squeeze it in there but it works great, 69 Chargers have almost no room in there. I asked around on here and it seemed like around 3,000 cfm was the general consensus, it works.

View attachment 1131263

Is that puller fan setup a substitute for your belt driven fan or in addition to the belt driven fan?
Is the puller fan setup installed between the rad and front grille or between rad and water pump like the normal belt driven fan?

 

[ddpsnake]

sorry for the delay,clutch fan is fine, just finish the coolant gauge Thursday, at idle in park it reads 180 the factory gauge is in the middle,once we get very warm out again i will post back.my 3 row rad has some calcium on the top of the tubs, never did a flush, could be getting plug up, it flows but what is a great flow, also did a jet change from 66 to 67. thanks for all the tips gents.

 

[747mopar]

Is that puller fan setup a substitute for your belt driven fan or in addition to the belt driven fan?
Is the puller fan setup installed between the rad and front grille or between rad and water pump like the normal belt driven fan?

It replaced the belt driven fan and is mounted between the radiator and water pump. The reason I went with dual fans instead of a single fan is because of the water pump, a single fan won't fit in my car because the fan motor would hit the water pump.

 

[ddpsnake]

wow thats tight.