Correct valley pan for my 440?

[TB1LD]

I’m in the process of putting the top end back together on my 440hp with 906 heads and my new valley pan (felpro kit 1215, pan #90299) is much “flatter” than the pan (#9546) I removed. It looks like it will “collapse” into place with the intake when torqued down but this doesn’t pass the sniff test for me. Is this the correct pan or do I need a different one? Engine is out of a 1968 Charger RT, factory heads and intake. Thanks!

 

[WileE]

It's a "stamping". Once you tie down the front and rear end rails, the intake/head surface will align. Don't forget your sealants !

 

[TB1LD]

It's a "stamping". Once you tie down the front and rear end rails, the intake/head surface will align. Don't forget your sealants !

Thanks WileE!

 

[TB1LD]

Any inputs on these passages not being open on the new pan?

 

[WileE]

That's the heat crossover passage. On your new pan, it is blocked. Please check your geometry regarding the paper gaskets. If you do/do not need them.

 

[pnora]

Any inputs on these passages not being open on the new pan?

View attachment 1962746

Thats the crossover to warm the choke and help with cold weather warm up and running. What do you have for exhaust, intake, choke, and carb?

 

[TB1LD]

Thats the crossover to warm the choke and help with cold weather warm up and running. What do you have for exhaust, intake, choke, and carb?

I’m running the stock exhaust manifolds but plan on safety wiring the choke/ buttery open. That said; sounds like I don’t necessarily to worry about opening the passages on the valley pan?

 

[TB1LD]

Did some googling and it sounds like it may be in my best interest to use some high temp rtv on crossover passages on the heads prior to pan install. This sound like a good plan of action?

 

[33 IMP]

If you decide to open em up , just drill a hole, you won't need to shape to the opening.
I'm in AZ and Cali. I leave mine blocked off. Last thing I need is more heat under the carb.

 

[33 IMP]

Did some googling and it sounds like it may be in my best interest to use some high temp rtv on crossover passages on the heads prior to pan install. This sound like a good plan of action?

What crossover passages? The only passage is the one under the carb, and your pan already blocks that. But, use what you want.
Sounds like advice from a chevy or small block mopar guy, with water passages in the intake..... that bbm don't have.

 

[TB1LD]

What crossover passages? The only passage is the one under the carb, and your pan already blocks that. But, use what you want.
Sounds like advice from a chevy or small block mopar guy, with water passages in the intake..... that bbm don't have.

Looking at these passages on each head where the pan mates up. Sounds to me like perhaps I can install as is and move on. I’m in eastern Wa and will be a fair weather driver in this car

 

[Orig69]

If your using an original intake manifold the gaskets should be in between the cylinder head and the valley pan.

 

[493 Mike]

The "valley pan" is the only GASKET you need for iron heads, just a dab of silicone in the corners where the heads meet the block.
Mike

 

[lewtot184]

i drill a hole on each side of the blocked heat crossover to allow for some heat and to keep the automatic choke working. some climates may be ok with the heat totally blocked but if temps get around 50f or lower that iron intake wants heat. aluminum intakes are a little more flexible. generally something like a 3/4" hole works ok. i do use an insulator gasket under the carb also.

 

[Don Frelier]

I dry fit the pan before installing.
Carefully bend the sides and get it close to setting in there evenly.
Then take a dull chisel and crease the bends so lays right in there.
Next take the intake and set it and check that the intake bolts line up well.
A thin layer of RTV along the front and rear rails and a dab in the corners.
I also put a very thin layer of sealant around each intake passage. (Very little though)

 

[TB1LD]

I dry fit the pan before installing.
Carefully bend the sides and get it close to setting in there evenly.
Then take a dull chisel and crease the bends so lays right in there.
Next take the intake and set it and check that the intake bolts line up well.
A thin layer of RTV along the front and rear rails and a dab in the corners.
I also put a very thin layer of sealant around each intake passage. (Very little though)

Great advice. Thanks

 

[WileE]

See ^ #13,14,15 all spot on. I use Indian head as I've done for over 55+ years around the intake passages.

 

[Don Frelier]

I use Indian head

Don't you mean "Native American Cranium"?

 

[33 IMP]

Indian head? Is that a port-a-potty teepee?

 

[WileE]

Indian head is great.