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Didn't degree the cam and this is what I found

I double checked the timing marks again and they are right on. The pushrods measure roughly 9.3 inches but now I'm thinking that they are too long. In my shopping sessions, I recall seeing listings for 8.9xx and 9.030 pushrods for a 440. Most are 9.295 to 9.40. Heck, that's over a quarter inch difference! What I am going to do is get a set of Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers and a pushrod length checker then order the length I need. I'm going to order a set of Stealth's while I'm at it and get this thing up and running. It's been in the works way too long!
 
Yep. When I switched from solid rollers to hydraulic rollers the whole dynamic was changed and had to get the comp pro magnum rods at 8" do you have a pushrod measure tool?
 
I double checked the timing marks again and they are right on. The pushrods measure roughly 9.3 inches but now I'm thinking that they are too long. In my shopping sessions, I recall seeing listings for 8.9xx and 9.030 pushrods for a 440. Most are 9.295 to 9.40. Heck, that's over a quarter inch difference! What I am going to do is get a set of Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers and a pushrod length checker then order the length I need. I'm going to order a set of Stealth's while I'm at it and get this thing up and running. It's been in the works way too long!
stock ball and ball push rods for stamped rockers are 9.315". don't buy heads or other parts until you solve the cam timing issue; you may be wasting money.
 
I though that one of the stores specified that the shorter ones were for hydraulic cam applications but that leaves me wondering why so many other list the longer ones as a direct fit for stock replacements. Wouldn't the overwhelming number of stock vehicles have had hydraulic cams to begin with?

lewtot184: I have to believe that the cam timing is correct. I have the heads off and with the piston at TDC, the damper mark is right on and both lifters are on the cam base circle, though the mark on the cam gear at this point is at about the 10 oclock position.
 
I though that one of the stores specified that the shorter ones were for hydraulic cam applications but that leaves me wondering why so many other list the longer ones as a direct fit for stock replacements. Wouldn't the overwhelming number of stock vehicles have had hydraulic cams to begin with?

lewtot184: I have to believe that the cam timing is correct. I have the heads off and with the piston at TDC, the damper mark is right on and both lifters are on the cam base circle, though the mark on the cam gear at this point is at about the 10 oclock position.


Hey moparbud66 when you put it all back together this time, whether you degree the cam in or not, be sure to check piston to valve clearance.

I like to use modeling clay

Degreeing the cam is a great thing to do even if for the first time because it helps you to understand your camshaft and the way your engine operates............

Good luck brother.
 
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