Different ways to pull the engine

[jays69bird]

Did a compression check on my 1969 Road Runner engine yesterday. Got 1,3,5,2, 135 psi-4,6, 130 psi, and 7 125 psi, and 8 120 psi.
Readings are in spec and for an engine rebuilt over 40 years ago its held up well. However I wanted to do a few things, Aluminum DB4
intake, TTI headers, newer carb, recam it. So I'm thinking about pulling it and reringing it. Now I have a cherry picker, but I also have a
lift. I was thinking instead of pulling the engine out of the car, pulling the torsion bars, upper control arms, and unbolting the K frame and
lifting the car up. Never done it that way but it seems to be a cleaner way of doing it. I was looking for feedback on folks who have done
the K frame method ?

 

[eldubb440]

you just need some sort of cart to rest the assembly on....

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Dang. I would be tempted to just remove the grill to put the cam in. The rest is bolt-on

 

[WileE]

Having done both methods, my thoughts are: six of one, half-dozen of the other. Pros and cons either, but I'd rather lift the car and drop the K. I've found that dropping the car back precisely is the most concerning aspect of that method.

 

[themechanic]

Option C: Pay a shop to do it.

 

[ckessel]

I've done the drop method quite a bit. It helps that I have a lift, makes it way easier, but others have done the drop without a lift. For sure you need a cart of some sort to support the engine/trans/k-frame combo. There are ones you can buy or you can DIY like many of us have done. To help get the assembly lined up for going back in the car, I got ahold of 4, 5/8"x12" bolts. Cut the hex heads off and a neighbor tapered the cut ends in a lathe to 1/4" point. Works great.

 

[eldubb440]

cart on castors is a must

 

[dfrazz]

I’ve done both ways and prefer dropping everything out the bottom. Buy, build or borrow a cart on castors, although I have used jack stands as a temporary solution.

 

[RJ Squirrel]

Since you have a lift dropping out the bottom is definitely the cleanest way. Cart does not need to be fancy, I use a rectangular frame on casters with some wood dunnage on it. Then you can roll the whole thing out in the open to work on it.

 

[A70Runner]

In and out the bottom. Used plans from this forum to build the cart.

 

[Darter6]

I'd rather lift the car and drop the K.

Yes easy with a rack

Cart does not need to be fancy,

Made mine out of 2 Harbor Freight furniture dollies $9 bucks each and some 2x6's.

 

[dvw]

Way quicker out the top. No fixture needed to hold everything (and where do you store that fixture?). I do use a hoist to get at the headers, trans etc. You still have to remove most of the same stuff either way. The only parts left on coming out the bottom may be the hood and possibly the radiator. Vs removing the steering shaft, balljoints, torsion bars, trans crossmember, lines, linkage, driveshaft. Some of these which can be pretty stubborn if they haven't been off in a while, or ever. Leaving the trans in reduces a lot of removal time as well. Just have to know the tricks of lineing it back up.
Doug

 

[A70Runner]

Way quicker out the top. No fixture needed to hold everything (and where do you store that fixture?). I do use a hoist to get at the headers, trans etc. You still have to remove most of the same stuff either way. The only parts left on coming out the bottom may be the hood and possibly the radiator. Vs removing the steering shaft, balljoints, torsion bars, trans crossmember, lines, linkage, driveshaft. Some of these which can be pretty stubborn if they haven't been off in a while, or ever. Leaving the trans in reduces a lot of removal time as well. Just have to know the tricks of lineing it back up.
Doug

My fixture breaks down for easy storage.

 

[dadsbee]

If you're going to rebuild the front end parts, out the bottom. Just doing the engine, out the top.

 

[gkent]

Neither way is easy. HOWEVER, the complete assembly - including headers - will slip back in from below. The same cannot be said for dropping it in from the top!!

 

[Runcharger]

I'd inframe it if your front suspension is in good condition. Otherwise, you must like doing work. If you want a wheel alignment, want to change brake hoses and seals, change suspension bushings, pound out torsion bars and paint/powdercoat bits then by all means drop it all out.
These days I won't even change a camshaft unless it needs it. Most times you're opening a can of worms you probably will regret.
Lots of junk replacement parts out there now.

 

[cosgig]

The only way to fly, baby!

 

[Armyvet25]

git yurself a reely reely looooong chane, ty 1 side to the moter and the other side to the tree, back up reely reely fast

 

[Dave6T4]

I have done quite a few engine removals over the years. Always out the top. It takes 3 guys and blankets for the fenders and firewall.

 

[RemCharger]

I have done quite a few engine removals over the years. Always out the top. It takes 3 guys and blankets for the fenders and firewall.

I used to pull the whole drivetrain out myself ,and drop it back in. Including hood removal, and leaving the driveshaft connected
not recommended!!