Disk Brake Pedal Action

[Ron H]

I had a brake conversion install done that then required hours of correcting the pedal travel, return, height adjustment, some new linkage, etc. to get it to be reasonably comfortable with a firm-feel. Success was finally achieved...for awhile. Now the pedal sometimes won't return fully leaving the brake lights on and when driving longer distances the pedal develops a cushy-soft feel. Brakes seem to react fine. I've had it in for re-bleeding and check of the prop valve.
Has anyone encountered similar problems and been able to correct it? Thanks.

 

[miller]

Manual, or power brakes? And, the correct MC, for which type?

 

[Ron H]

SSBC and kit instructions indicate A156-1 and A156-3 for 65-74 B & E Body...so evidently a somewhat "universal" kit. I had tried to obtain assistance from SSBC but they eventually became silent. I guess once da money is paid be gone. My Fury didn't have power brakes and converted to power with the install. I thought some of the problem could be with the goofy linkage part put in that gave me most trouble with lowering the pedal and activating the brake light switch. When I found the pedal high enough to reach by hand more than foot when getting the car back, I got a reply that addressing this issue would require reconfiguring somehow the switch location. So they just figured a pedal in the sky was good enough. I found the installed rod simply didn't reach the switch and a friend machined one for me that more resembled the original rod using the shop manual to create specs. I didn't obtain the original parts removed that I'd like to have...thanks.

 

[miller]

Understand. Yeah, I'll agree power brakes need the correct parts...including the MC. No expert here, but I do understand there's differences on the MCs, between manual, or power, both inside and out. Only saying that, since the MC has the main action how the pedal works, along with the rod. Can only suggest check part #s, to see if it is for power brakes.

I up-graded my brakes, too, but manual, and used the old school bit, going with later Mopar parts.
Good luck on it!

 

[Ron H]

yeah if I could have a do over I might have stayed with manual especially if this would have avoided the hours of work putzing around I had no idea could happen. The part installed I mentioned also was sloppy as hell around the pedal connection bolt around 1/16th slop so a buddy found a very hard to find oil lite bushing that fit nicely. I can't believe SSBC would have had this linkage part as part of the kit...looked like it was made in high school shop class and it had actually was already bent when taking it off. I should ship it back to SSBC as an FYI. Also made up a plate for the firewall to seat the dangling boot and close up the gaping hole in the left in the firewall linkage pass-through. Odd that with my prior posts on this nobody apparently encountered these problems. I have some pics of these parts should anyone be interested to see what I've described..

 

[miller]

Sorry to hear about all that, Ron.

Yes sir, big difference working with the right parts. Not jabbing any...but, using the parts list on the conversions (Mopar parts), all mine fell right into place.

 

[Ron H]

I had a so called reputable shop do the installation and let them select the kit...a lot went wrong on that decision...

 

[miller]

Well...there is one good thing about it all. It's all bolt on, and can slip right back off!
All of us do the learn the hard way stuff (lol, is there any other way!).

In ways, I lucked out on some things. On my 64 Ply, pretty much knew what I wanted, including the brakes conversion. But, later axles was also in the plan. When I found my 67 rear 8 3/4, it already had 11 1/2" by 3" backing plates on it. Figured why should the police have all the good stuff...if it's good for them, it's good for me!

Had a problem with the first 'rebuilt' MC I got...contaminated my entire brake system. When I pulled it, and started looking it over, found the piston snap ring was the wrong size. It had pretty much been 'hammered' into the groove! Not much wondering what the rest of it looked like. Fit real good in the trash can. Once I found a new MC, think it was for a 67 manual disc/drum brake set-up, problem solved. Only thing I had to deal with was the mounting studs, supposingly because they were hard to find. Used the stock 64 studs, and added bushings to make it work.

You can always hang on to the good parts, and change the rest...just some of my evil thoughts.

 

[Ron H]

Appreciate your advice! Brakes work fine and had a test the other day coming over a hill around 70MPH and had to brake her hard to avoid a mail truck! No squealing with a fast stop. If I can figure out the pedal action may be good to go.

 

[miller]

If I can figure out the pedal action may be good to go.

Just thinking out loud...going to guess you have the correct brake peddle. If the pistons in the MC are not moving full travel...could mean some kind of problem inside it. That's past any air in the system.

 

[Fran Blacker]

On my 65 Dodge used an adjustable brake pedal pushrod bought this brake light switch on ebay. Had to make a new bracket to align with push rod. The adjustable push rod didn't have tip on the end to reach stock switch. Don't know if this helps.

elps.