Don selleck's 68 charger rt project
- Thread starter Don selleck
- Start date
Holy spaghetti batman! Looking good man but wow that's a good amount of wiring! Love the painted radiator too! Hate the aluminum look under the hood. That looks killer! Did the same to mine until this winter when I went with an original and had Glen Ray do it for me.
thanks, that is a griffen looks somewhat original, was gonna have it powder coated but the cores are epoxyed in, not weldedHoly spaghetti batman! Looking good man but wow that's a good amount of wiring! Love the painted radiator too! Hate the aluminum look under the hood. That looks killer! Did the same to mine until this winter when I went with an original and had Glen Ray do it for me.
Yup, thats the only aluminum one that was decent that had the tanks ribbed like the original when I was looking. Quite spendy to at $760 where I was looking. But then again, I went with the original so it didn't really get any cheaper.
Get that thing rocking so we can park next to eachother at Carlisle!
yep i paid 700 got a deal from a guy my wife went to school with cap not included. what are the glen ray running for resto?
Cost me $750 for a full Max cool recore for my 26”. I bought the tanks off him mint for $150 which wasn’t bad at all. So total was $950 shipped to my door with new overflow hose, cap, hardware for mounting it and shroud, and clamps all painted. Not bad I didn’t think for a quality piece that works and a lifetime guarantee.
Hey Don, any pics of how you tied the vacuum assisted line from the vacuum pump into the booster for the brakes? I have a large cam with 9" of vacuum, so I may have to do that eventually. I was wondering how I will go about tying into the booster with the vacuum line and was wondering what you used for ideas.
I don't have any pics of that directly i believe, but I will be removing the battery tray so i can install the power steering hoses and misc. I can take some then , but i believe i just used a plastic tee with a smaller size on one end to connect to the pressure switch then from there to the vacuum pump. the tee was larger on the other nipples to accept the line going to the booster and the vacuum canister on the other sides. so the tee was the item for the conversion of hose sizes.
Did you tie into the existing port on the top of the booster? Just used a T and ran it to the pump under the battery tray then?
ran the booster line (using the existing port on top of the booster)to under the tray to keep the clutter under there, pump, switch, and cannister are under the tray I also tied everything to the tray so no punching holes into the original sheet metal of the car.also allowing complete access to it by removing the battery tray. i have some access to it (pressure adjustment switch)thru the a arm adjuster covers thru the inner fender well behind the front drivers tire, while still keeping room to adjust the a arms. this system is independent of the engine for now, and I tested it brakes and headlights work great. I hit the brakes multible times without losing booster effectiveness. My engine builder says I may not need that system but we will see. you know how those 1/4 mile junky's are.
I will take multible pics when i remove the tray
well after looking at the ecm and a mile of wires for the fuel injection, and not wanting to cut and splice that mess ended up, yes drilling a 1 1/4" hole thru the fire wall bought a sealing rubber coated flange with an aluminum outer ring for fasteners this will allow me to put the ecm under the console inside then i can make one loop for the extra length in wires tucked the rest inside of shrink wrap cloth kind of looks like a snake ate something too big. but will find something to cover that looks more consistant. being an early bird on the borgeson power steering buya few years ago, got another dabockle, brackets were way off for pulley alignment, then sent me powersteering pump with a top return which would be ok but the hose is too short to reach it, going to remove and replace tube with a loop on top to meet the hose will look better not sticking way up anyways. next was the lack of hood clearance. I had a friend of mine machine (4) 3/4" pucks. the front 2 cut on a 70 degree angles the other 2 were 90. drilled a 3/4" hole centered with a 3/4" x 1 1/8" brass bushing with 2 machine washers that fit around the brass bushing( these acted like the original washer on the k member bolts as a centering device like the originals) also bought grade 8 bolts 1" longer, no way originals would have worked, the bushing was the same depth and diameter sticking out of the shim block creating the shoulder similar on the stock bolts. now my air cleaner fits under the hood yayy! but of course this meant my drive shaft is way off. well I took a stock tranny mount cut it apart removed 1 inch of material drilled a hole thru the entire mount then drilled a bigger hole thru the center of the steel mounting bracket to trans to allow movement then pinned and welded it together. i went an inch to give me extra adjustment from the 3/4" raise in the frame off the k member. I didnt need it checked it with a degree level gauge and it read that 3/4" would have worked. 1" is maximum k member spacing without having to doing some fab work to the crossmember tranny support. it has about 1/8" clearance on transmission. fabbed up a harness for my starter to get everything out of the way for my buddy to install a 304 stainless exhaust went with borla s type mufflers the attack ones sounded great but wanted to knock it down a little for drivabilty while having a conversation, and finally picked the dumpster bound sign to create one that say's "Don's" finally made the big time gonna have my name in lights!
well checked my thrust angle with two pls construction lasers one in front under the pully and the other under the pinion then pointed them at each other and intersected the points, these lasers shoot a 90 degree dot off center on both side for squaring rooms and buildings, if you measure from the center of the beam they a pretty damn accurate, i came up with my passenger side 3/16ths forward so shimmed it back. off to work tomorrow, tuesday morning plan on setting windshield and finally the alignment on my doors, the painter needed to take them off due to a lack of prep from last painter, and was redone, been driving me nuts ever since i got it back. wednesday morning heading to a friends house for a 304 stainless exhaust, went with borla muffers s type, i have cut-outs if i want it any louder, hopefully i picked the right one we'll see, i guess we'll hear. got some snow last night stop at my lake property this morning, hoping to build a small retirement home there soon.
showard
Well-Known Member
That is a creative way to get your air cleaner to fit. I like it.
I have also been looking at the option of using borla exhaust system. I'm not sure what I will use yet.
I have also been looking at the option of using borla exhaust system. I'm not sure what I will use yet.
i'm not the first to shim a k member but the first i've seen creating a shoulder to line it up similar to original, the 1 1/8" bushing is brass, which concerns me a little but the brunt of the load is held by tightening it down to spec torque, reason being the k member holes thru to the frame are larger than the original bolts, at least mine is anyways. but i sure will pay attention to them for any wear. as far as borla goes the sound byte they had on th 68 charger with the attack style sounded fantastic, keeping in mind theses are s type which is supposily mellower. could not find any sound bytes of those so when i fire it i'll figure out how to load a video.
well got my trans shifter arm today was supposed to come tomorrow but very cool it showed up now maybe i wont have to remove the exhaust getting installed tomorrow at least for a while anyways. taking the shifter back to stock even with the lokar down shift cable, lots of leve
rs arms rods wow, now i realize why most people use a manual valve body with a cable shifter.
got it back from tim's shop got my 304 stainless exhaust, he did a great job on the welding and fabbing up the hangers. trying out the borla s-type muffler a step down from the loud as hell model attak series. about a weeks worth of work away from start up. so maybe a month, in full time job world, working on it whenever i find time,
showard
Well-Known Member
Looks great! I have been toying with the idea of getting Borla exhaust.
thanks, hope it sounds as good as it looks. set up my drive shaft harmonics saturday, the rear end pinnion was pointing down 2.36 degrees away from the transmission. wondering if it was that far off before the car was stripped. so i got a 4 degree shim which brought it the range pointing towards the trans 1.46 since i shimmed the k-member hence the air cleaner clearance. assuming that would change the transmission angle, i opted to take 1" out of the trans mount to compensate for the engine tilt. well i didnt need to do it . the angle was way off put in a stock mount and brought it to 1.16 pointing towards the pinion. Wish i would have checked the angle before the k member shim. i assume that being so close to the degree pointing towards each other, i should be good according to what I've read between 1 and 3 degrees unless mopar has something different, which is possible.???????? carrying on, gonna adjust my thrust angle of the rear end again and set. exhaust manifold gaskets. and on to the final engine compartment wiring, gotta get this thing running.
well its alive after nearly 5 years, primed the oil pump turned the key and about 4 spins fired right up brought it up to 2k rpms for 30 minutes kept good oil pressure around 65. flex fan with 2" spacer cooled the radiator very well with stock shroud, was unable to find a clutch fan that would clear my saginaw pump on the borgeson power steering, the aftermarket curse, installed my gauge cluster but could not get power to my gauges somehow so hooked up old reliable oil pressure and used a trigger laser heat gun to keep an eye on temperatures throughout the motor, pretty cool wouldn't do it any other way. My timing mark was off by 6 degrees old man itis thought my timing mark was in a different spot, it is off in the video below if i can figure out how to load them. of course i have a few leaks a cracked powersteering return line, and a slight oozing on the oil pan, a slight tightening made sure the leak increased and now I will change to a new crushproof gasket from summit coming in a few days along with my new compression tester, my old one of 35 years finally bit the dust. and do compression test just to see where everythings at with new plugs a step hotter there are fouling a bit. fitech system is not that bad once its figured out will post my findings on the way i did it in a few days. basically follow directions, but they are kind of confusing. and by the way the borla type-s mufflers are loud as hell, sounds good but not sure if i will like it after a while driving. no such luck on video, how does that work upload to youtube or something?
Last edited:
Similar threads
