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Don selleck's 68 charger rt project

been busy, managed to spend several days with her, small glitch with the front leaf spring perches, i knew they weren't stock, but i guess they were for ss springs so i've been informed by rarefish (thanks). so was gonna fab the brackets but looks like boise68 is gonna hook me up with a couple from a 68 coronet, new stainless fuel lines needed a little adjustment because of the frame connectors, along with the e-brake cable that will have to addressed. so its back to drywall for me for a week, can't find any good tapers, regular guys are working on other projects for me. then i will be back at it.

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been busy again got some front leaf spring mounts from boise 68, thanks very much, hope you been catching fish. Ended up picking up a set of stage VI heads for a great price, from another great member on this site, wouldn't know what I'd do with out everyone's knowledge and connections. I ended up wrapping my old motor and trans with plastic to keep the grease and oil contained so i could load the car to see if any body lines changed being the new motor is not completed yet. well it did change my body lines at the door to fender area, not alot around an eighth each way, and relieved some pressures on the lower rear fenders where I fought like hell to get them in position. its pretty cool this thing wants go where it should be, when all the right physics are applied, ended up removing drivers side fender, did a little more filing and hammering, but most important it' a roller, bid mile stone for me, happy to get it there finally, well I have a more realistic view of how much time this stuff takes, that being said two more weeks of tweeking on the body work and its paint time for the outer. will be posting more pics as the body work continues, and showing some of the stuff I've come up with as far as a drywaller, commercial carpenter mind works.

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This is the part of the build that usually gets a guy excited...... looks like a car again! Looks great, your doing an incredible job on.
 
Don, In reply to your question about core support measurements I felt that it would be better to show pictures of where I got my measurements just in case I misunderstood where you were wanting measurements. The program would not let me post pictures in the conversation category so I am putting the measurements here also, along with pictures.
The measurement from top of frame to top of core support on each side was 15 15/16".
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Inbetween the core support at the top under the hood screw adjuster welded nuts, where it meets at the inner fenders was: 50 7/8".
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Measuring across the same way except on the outside, from outside to outside across the core support at the top was: 51 3/16".
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Measuring diaganal from front of inner fender to rear of inner fender on the top to the hood stop plate was: 60" both directions. That is with my 1" wide measuring tape pushed flat in the corner.
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From the top of frame inner fender to the other side top frame inside inner fender 35 3/4".
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Sorry, some pictures are not clear. I hope this helps. IMG_0977.JPG
 
thanks again, those numbers are right there for in between waiting for the new core, then i can set the elevation numbers, I gotta feeling they should be close, and will be installing the p.o. number on the core also. the reference numbers are very reassuring so far, will post pics of the whole process, when I complete it maybe it can save some one the pain in the *** I'm going thru, live and learn. Thanks!
 
  1. well its been a rough couple weeks, putting lots of time into the charger. cut the old core support out of car some how I managed to weld it it too high on the passenger side and pulled in too tight. made the first cut and it popped almost into place, I remember when I installed it seemed to be very tight, not saying something was wrong with it when i got it, if there was i should have checked it then, so its still my fault. had to destroy the old new support to keep from damaging the attatchment points. then threw in a 2x4 in between to keep every thing in place then loaded the torsion bars, checked the floor where the tires set in the barn with a laser, and shimmed them up to level, then placed the car on the wood shims. Then aired up the tires to equall pressures. I did this same procedure when I started the disassembly process to check the crash numbers to actual numbers on the car, to see if the frame was in line, i guess i should have checked the inner fenders also. Being in construction I have a couple of different lasers which came in handy. I found the center line of the car on the tail light panel, then on the cowl in front which is dead center on one of the fresh air fins. Then shot the laser light thru both points, I know not everyone has lasers laying around, a string line would work also if you rigged it up with a couple magnet clamps.I then cross measured from common points from each side of the car (like windshield openings, inner fender mounting locations etc.) number were right on equally, so then that allowed me to square the front fenders, I noticed openings for the hood are 3/8 larger than the hood itself. so thats the margin numbers I kept since the hood varies in width at different locations. thanks again to Showard for the reference numbers most of my numbers came in the same. my core came in at 16 1/16 " about an eigth bigger. When I did the first core I did not weld in the old core support numbers which i regretted so i figured i would get that accomplised. took the old one matched it up to the new core, clamped it to a couple of straight edges, then cut out the piece out, lined up the oldpart and tac welded in a few spots being very careful not to over heat the metal to prevent warping. will have to post another reply wont let me upload any more pics.

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I'm back, came into place quite well. I went over the rest of the body doing some final straightening, looking good for high lighting the primer starting tomorrow. Was supposed to drop off the car to get it painted tomorrow, but its been raining here for the last five days straight just got it primed last night. so a couple more days and its finally off to be painted woo hoo!!

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well i lied, had to share theses last pics, wet sanded to 400, looked too good, dropped at the painters today, my *** is wooped, good feeling getting it out of here for a while

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still in paint jail, still no color, about to f_____ come unglued, I took the car in too late into collision season last October, well winter roads are thawed deer are not in rut, now its almost july, have everything else pretty much done and ready to go in, been very civil to the guy, about to turn into a dick head and go over there with my trailer. I've ran a business for over 30 years, I just don't get it with car painters, at least the one's I know! Just venting so I don't do anything stupid.
 
I wish I would have started with something not quite as valuable, I would have tried a single stage in my driveway.
 
I feel your pain Don, I got ripped a new one for 3k by a shister painter myself. , then I had to pay to get it done right by a trustworthy body/paint guy for an enormous amount, but finally got it done and right.. I would go get your car and find a reliable/trustworthy painter.
 
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well, after cleaning up some non bonding paint on the door hinges, under trunk lid, and several other spots. also the aftermarket hood I got from amd looked pretty good had a little more grinding on the back of it was hitting the inner fender on the drivers side. Also had to remove and reweld the adjuster pads where the rubber screw hood adjusters land, a little off. good catch on these areas from body guy. everything has been re cut in and made it to here. hopefully Monday
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or early next week.
 
I don't think I've ever seen a body man that looked to be in a rush. Mine is going soon for rust& 1st ever repaint. Hoping I don't need any meds for that.
 
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