Dr Diff front disc conversion 68 Road Runner

[rrTor-Red]

That's what I asked/recommended in my previous reply. Again, if the hard lines is rounded off, change them because you won't get a good tight seal using those rounded one's again. Plus, it's just all around, not good. You have to decide aluminum or stainless. Get a new proportioning valve too

Another advice here on lines. First, I always look and clean the ends. Second, when you're tightening the lines and fell them getting tight, back it back off, then tighten it a little more than previous. Do this 2-3 times at least so the line will "seat".

Don't forget to bench bleed M/C

 

[Billccm]

Thanks tor red!
The Dr Diff kit includes a new proportioning block.
Next question: Do I have to drop the entire rear end to replace the lines to the rear wheel cylinders?

 

[rrTor-Red]

Thanks tor red!
The Dr Diff kit includes a new proportioning block.
Next question: Do I have to drop the entire rear end to replace the lines to the rear wheel cylinders?

No. You should have hard line (from body), to rubber line (going from body to rear), then a hard line on the rear end, through a "T" on the rear to distribute brake fluid to both wheels. Make sense?

Also, do you have a FSM?

 

[Fran Blacker]

I put my p/v near distribution block near front of car.

 

[TxDon]

I'm subscribed, I may want to do a conversion on my GTX. Did your car have manual or power drums and is the conversion setup manual or power?

 

[Billccm]

Also, do you have a FSM?

I downloaded the 68 Plymouth manual onto my PC, but am using my old Chiltons "1969-1975 Charger Coronet" book as my garage guide.

Both sides spindles and shields are on. Moving ahead to pack wheel bearings and install rotors. I loaded the Torsion bolts to the approximate bolt head length I had measured previously. I'd like to increase the ride height about 1 inch, so maybe I should tighten the bolt another centimeter than before?

I'll update you later. Thanks for being my guardian!

 

[Billccm]

I'm subscribed, I may want to do a conversion on my GTX. Did your car have manual or power drums and is the conversion setup manual or power?

Car was 11 inch manual drums all around and they were awful. You can read my story in this link:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/drum-brake-crash-course-or-refresher.124388/

Converting to manual front disc as we speak.

 

[Billccm]

No. You should have hard line (from body), to rubber line (going from body to rear), then a hard line on the rear end, through a "T" on the rear to distribute brake fluid to both wheels. Make sense?

Makes sense, but remember my case is 'nothing is easy' on this conversion. Kind of second guessing my shade tree skills right now.

So, what is the most difficult way to replace the rear brake lines, because that is probably the route I will have to take. I assume I need to remove the Tee/Vent. How difficult?

 

[rrTor-Red]

Not sure I'm following you. Anyway, you shouldn't have to replace the rear end hard lines. Just replace the two front (to both front), 2 to the M/C, and the main one going back to the rear end and the prop valve

 

[Fran Blacker]

Are you replacing them because of rust or preventive maintenance?
Remove one end of brake line and with a straight tube start bending.
OR remove brake line and bend it to the same shape on your work bench.

 

[rrTor-Red]

Are you replacing them because of rust or preventive maintenance?
Remove one end of brake line and with a straight tube start bending.
OR remove brake line and bend it to the same shape on your work bench.

He's replacing because one is rounded and the others are not budging from the prop valve

 

[Billccm]

Is it just me, or does this bearing look correct? The rotor's race is beveled steep, the inner wheel bearing has no bevel?

 

[Billccm]

Anyway, you shouldn't have to replace the rear end hard lines.

I've decided if brake fluid flows through it I will replace now. New rear wheel cylinders, might as well replace lines. Besides, the rear bleeder will probably break off the old wheel cylinder, so I might as well do it all now.

 

[rrTor-Red]

Is it just me, or does this bearing look correct? The rotor's race is beveled steep, the inner wheel bearing has no bevel?

View attachment 407450 View attachment 407451 View attachment 407452

Does not look right to me. Both inner and outer bearing should have a bevel to both. Only difference is one bearing is different diameter. Cass might have sent you the wrong one, IDK. But, you should be able to get one from your local parts store if need be. Timken bearings are only a few bucks

 

[Billccm]

Thanks tor red! I've got an email into Dr Diff for help.

Wish I had motorheads like you lived in my neighborhood.

 

[rrTor-Red]

Your inbox is full

 

[rrTor-Red]

Is that kit specific to your vehicle?

 

[Billccm]

Is that kit specific to your vehicle?

Well, I ordered from Dr Diff the B Body rear mount stage 1 kit for 14 inch wheels, so I assume it is the correct kit? I had a email dialog with Dr Diff and explained the car, etc.

My conversation box is showing 54% full, but I'll clean it out.

 

[rrTor-Red]

I'd take the rotor to a parts store. Tell them to pull up a rotor bearing for a 73-76 A body, like Duster, Scamp, etc. See if the bearing(s) you need fits. Hopefully, you don't get a punk kid who looks at you like you have a third eye when you say "Plymouth".

I'll look at my inbox. I don't think I'm full

 

[Billccm]

Super fast response from Dr Diff:


The bearings look correct. I prefer to replace the races that come installed in the rotors with the extra Timken units, but it is not mandatory. If you decide to replace the races, you must drive them out with a hammer and punch.