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Drive shafts loops, show me yours.

DVW looks tight between the driveshaft & exhaust. How much clearance do you have? I'm thinking of either a carbon fiber or aluminum drive shaft. The carbon fiber needs to kept away from heat of 200 or higher if I remember correctly.
It has at least 3/4". The nice thing about welding it is that our can tip the loop what ever angle you need. I cut the 90 degree ends off from the floor mounts. Save these cutoffs. Then tack weld bolts into the holes. Drop these parts in from above the floor under the carpet with the bolts sticking down through. That way the loop can come off easily without having to lift the carpet. As for aluminum shafts. My 9.0 raccar has 500 passes on one, no issue. You'll find steel shafts aren't even legal in Pro-Mod. What does that tell you?
Doug
 
US Car Tool Has this one for $159. looks to be same as Mancini Racing but $30. Cheaper
http://store.uscartool.com/bolt-in-driveshaft-loop-mopar-a-body.html

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It has at least 3/4". The nice thing about welding it is that our can tip the loop what ever angle you need. I cut the 90 degree ends off from the floor mounts. Save these cutoffs. Then tack weld bolts into the holes. Drop these parts in from above the floor under the carpet with the bolts sticking down through. That way the loop can come off easily without having to lift the carpet. As for aluminum shafts. My 9.0 raccar has 500 passes on one, no issue. You'll find steel shafts aren't even legal in Pro-Mod. What does that tell you?
Doug
Tells me they need something that is going to self destruct before it catapults a car or kills a driver. Strip only car, either is fine. Highway car? Roll the dice and take your chances. I’ve bent an aluminum shaft and seen plenty of the new cars with bent shafts from running over ****. Your mileage may vary....
 
We incorporated mine with one of the undercar bars for the 25.5 cert. The NHRA official says it is a grey area because it does not say in the rules that this bar has to be one solid bar from side to side so we make them removeable to ease getting the transmissions in & out & incorporate the driveshaft loops in this bar as well. He says it's grey area but it passes.

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Tells me they need something that is going to self destruct before it catapults a car or kills a driver. Strip only car, either is fine. Highway car? Roll the dice and take your chances. I’ve bent an aluminum shaft and seen plenty of the new cars with bent shafts from running over ****. Your mileage may vary....[/QUOTE
You do know that there are production vehicles using both types?
Doug
 
This is my updated hoop. It's actually a few lbs lighter than the previous 1/4 X 2" flat bar design that used to bolt to the back of the crossmember and the floor. Torsion bars easily get by when removing.

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Malex have you played with header extensions to see if lengths make a change? I always heard 18" was kinda the std.

Seems I read if you paint them and then cut them back to where the paint isn't burnt was a good starting point also.
 
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Malex have you played with header extensions to see if lengths make a change? I always heard 18" was kinda the std.
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GM GTX. I haven't extended them yet, but what I did do was replace them with 3.5" diameter, the ones in the picture were 3". They are just long enough to get the heat past the frame.

I've made a lot of positive changes since last season so will see my results first. The reduced weight will definitely show up on the time slips but I think that between the new 8" Ultimate converter and rebuilt trany with the lower gear set should be even more of an improvement. You know, this transmission was supposed to be fresh and race built, it turns out that the only upgrades it had was a A&A trans brake valve body and aluminum drum. Clutches, bands, servo pistons all bone stock. No wonder the oil was a mess when I drained it. What's worse is that I have since found out that I was using the transbrake all season on a bone stock pressed in sprag! I got away lucky I'd say.
 
Malex that's one Badass Hoop you got there, Thinking i'm going to be copying it !!
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Cool! You know, when I put it into place I though that it would be tough, but it was the opposite. I simply put it upside down, slid one side in the one hole first and then the other. Then I just give it a 180 degree spin up into place, welded it up.
 
That guy in the video should learn to put his visor down, a flash fire and he is blind!
 
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