Moms68
Well-Known Member
I couldn't get your link to work.I had my last drive shaft built at: http://drdrivelineinc.com/
It was almost too pretty to use.
Mike
I couldn't get your link to work.I had my last drive shaft built at: http://drdrivelineinc.com/
It was almost too pretty to use.
Mike
Yes I did it because my yoke was damaged when the drive shaft twistedDid you need to change the yoke on the differential for the 1350 joints? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
Yes, used a yoke from Strange.Did you need to change the yoke on the differential for the 1350 joints? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
I just clicked on the link and the address and phone came up?I couldn't get your link to work.
How do you balance it?I do my own... I always thought there was some kind of mojo about doing one then I had a local racer shorten one for me in his home shop... perfect.
After I bought my first mig welder around '79 I started doing my own. Sometimes I had my friend shorten an existing shaft in his lathe then I'd weld the rear yoke back on... now I use a tubing cutter for a nice job. Clean up the old tubing from that yoke, mark and move the weight if needed and weld her up.
I have several prospects from scrapped Mopars in the corner or my shop as candidates for my Coronet shaft.
The Twisted drive shaft pictured earlier in the thread is a result of a U-Joint failure ripping through the grease channel#23. Got into somewhat of an argument on another site about drilled/greaseable u-joints. Millions of them out there, they are fine. Yes, depending on the application. I twisted one off years ago and as a result, will not use them if I can go solid. First thing that I did with my Dart, get rid of that combo u-joint thing. New driveshaft and the large solid joints.