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Ebay distributor query.

Phoenix440

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Finally got my car going and am starting to tune ignition and carb to attempt to get some more performance.
I have just done the weld up advance mod, to limit the advance( awful looking welds I know).
When I went to install the distributor I noticed the rotor turns nearly 90 degrees when you apply a bit of rotational force. I picked this up as I noticed the rotor was not pointing where it was when I removed the distributor.
The movement isn't on the advance mechanism but seems to be in the shaft.
To summarise I can turn the distributor shaft about 80 degrees anti clockwise from its correct position. This is not anything to do with advance.
I thought the shaft would be one piece?
Would the distributor perform as normal if I just set it to line up with the no 1 plug when timing the engine. It does take some strength to move but no more than what it takes to move the mechanical advance plate, so may cause issues.
The dizzy is a hi revs 7500 off Ebay and looking at the ad they sound like a very good unit overall.
I have had the dizzy sitting for over a year so doubt the seller would have any interest in assisting, but this may he a problem with others.
Anyone have any thoughts.

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Get a HEI dist. Much better ign system, more spark energy, & because of that, you can run 0.060" plug gaps. Road Star in Sydney should gave them.

Much easier to modify the centri adv curve. Remove the roll pin, & remove the shaft. The rotor screws onto a cross shaft; just inboard of each threaded hole is another plain hole. Using a 3/16" screw & bolt, you can use THIS hole to limit centri advance; no welding needed. Insert the screw from underneath, nut on top. You grind/file the side of the nut to limit travel & therefore total centri advance. I do both sides of the bar, [ for balance ] but probably not necessary. Loctite screws. The nuts will likely interfere with the mounting boss on the rotor; rotor will not fully seat. Just file/cut plastic until it seats. I have lost count of how many I have modified this way....

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Finally got my car going and am starting to tune ignition and carb to attempt to get some more performance.
I have just done the weld up advance mod, to limit the advance( awful looking welds I know).
When I went to install the distributor I noticed the rotor turns nearly 90 degrees when you apply a bit of rotational force. I picked this up as I noticed the rotor was not pointing where it was when I removed the distributor.
The movement isn't on the advance mechanism but seems to be in the shaft.
To summarise I can turn the distributor shaft about 80 degrees anti clockwise from its correct position. This is not anything to do with advance.
I thought the shaft would be one piece?
Would the distributor perform as normal if I just set it to line up with the no 1 plug when timing the engine. It does take some strength to move but no more than what it takes to move the mechanical advance plate, so may cause issues.
The dizzy is a hi revs 7500 off Ebay and looking at the ad they sound like a very good unit overall.
I have had the dizzy sitting for over a year so doubt the seller would have any interest in assisting, but this may he a problem with others.
Anyone have any thoughts.

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Found the issue, the plate which has the pins for the mechanical advance arm slips on the shaft. Wonder if this is common with these distributors. I will let the seller know, but don't expect a replacement.
Get a HEI dist. Much better ign system, more spark energy, & because of that, you can run 0.060" plug gaps. Road Star in Sydney should gave them.

Much easier to modify the centri adv curve. Remove the roll pin, & remove the shaft. The rotor screws onto a cross shaft; just inboard of each threaded hole is another plain hole. Using a 3/16" screw & bolt, you can use THIS hole to limit centri advance; no welding needed. Insert the screw from underneath, nut on top. You grind/file the side of the nut to limit travel & therefore total centri advance. I do both sides of the bar, [ for balance ] but probably not necessary. Loctite screws. The nuts will likely interfere with the mounting boss on the rotor; rotor will not fully seat. Just file/cut plastic until it seats. I have lost count of how many I have modified this way....

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Some good info there, thanks for all that.
I bought the ebay distributor as the seller specialises in Mopar stuff and it seemed like an improvement over the Chinese plug and run that was in it originally. Hei sounds like the way to go.

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Impossible

But it’s Original 70s Chrysler , Bulletproof design says Rick Ehrenberg

Along with his famous copycat Duralast Ignition Module that was supposedly made in the USA some years ago
 
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