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Engine build suggestions

70383ChargerSE

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So I am looking to add some power to my 69 440 and could use some help. The engine has about 1000 miles on it and it didn't exactly have the kick I was hoping for.

It's a stock 440 with a Holley 670 and Edelbrock performer 440 manifold.

I took off the iron 906 heads to check things out and to my surprise the short block wasn't what I told it was. I was told this engine had forged Ross pistons, and the block was decked. The pistons clearly are stock flat tops with no valve reliefs. Bummer. It also doesn't look like the block was decked since the piston doesn't go to the top of the deck. Compression test was all around 160-170.

My plan is the following:

Edelbrock thunder Avs 800cfm.
Edelbrock performer rpm
440 source heads
Comp XE274
TTI 1 7/8 headers

This car is going in a 70 charger and has a stock torque converter with 3.23's. the car has AC and power brakes.

I would like to get 450hp. Does anyone have any better suggestions on a cam other than this one to get to my goal? I'm not opposed to a solid camshaft. But with the stock flat tops, I'm not sure if it would make a big difference.

Thank you in advance

Below are photos of the pistons.

20230327_055132.jpg


20230326_210821.jpg
 
That's why i don't believe ads stating : forged rotating assembly, arias/ ross etc pistons. Better just to tear it down rather than take anybody's word for it, unless they are reputable like some on this site. Good luck with your 440 build.
 
You should be able to get 450 HP out of that combo, or close to it, even with the 906s.
 
@diesel_lv. My thoughts exactly. I didn't like seeing that. I don't know what upset me more, seeing the flat tops or the carbon lol. Made me think that there are a lot more miles on this engine than what I was told. Also, Oil pressure is about 40lbs hot and about 60psi on the freeway.
 
@diesel_lv. My thoughts exactly. I didn't like seeing that. I don't know what upset me more, seeing the flat tops or the carbon lol. Made me think that there are a lot more miles on this engine than what I was told. Also, Oil pressure is about 40lbs hot and about 60psi on the freeway.

Clean off the crud at the top and check for ring ridge.
 
What year is cast into the block and how far down in the hole are the pistons? If it is a motor home engine I suspect the c.r. will be low. Hughes Whiplash cam HUG SMC3245BL for low compression engine is what I would look at if you don't want to swap out pistons.
 
Need to know how far the pistons are down in the hole, as that matters a lot for the cam etc., what's the piston to deck? Got a dial indicator and some feeler gauges?

Though in any case, the aftermarket heads should help with the smaller chambers raising the compression and better ports.
 
What are the specs of that cam? I thought the 274 is pretty big, and the 268 was the comp for a mild streeter.

yes, a lot more carb would help, a lot. That avs2 should do nicely. The rpm intake is awesome.

those pistons don’t look like the super low compression ones. The 7.8 to 1 stuff has the piston to about a quarter inch down the hole.
 
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I will check to see how far down in the hole the pistons are. I can still see some cross hatch in the cylinders so I guess that's a positive. Here are some more photos. I'm assuming the black line at the top of the cylinders is oil leaking from the valve stem seals?

20230327_203716.jpg


20230327_203731.jpg
 
if it were me i'd just take the short block out, get it on a stand, take it apart, measure what you can; then you'll know what you have and where you want to go before buying parts.
 
there's no way in the world i'd just throw a top end kit on. what caused all that carbon, bad tune-up or oil leaking thru? pistons may or may not be correct? ring pack could be goofy? head issues?
 
I will be pulling the engine, I just checked the engine casting date and it is a 68 Block. When I have the engine out of my car I will check to see how far down in the hole the pistons are.
 
Without going anywhere else... anywhere... you have to know exactly what you got with your current reciprocating assembly. That's where you start, then go from there. See posts #11 & #13, that's exactly what you should do.
 
The compression test of 160-170 psi in all cylinders is good, with 906 heads that would make the compression ratio approximately 9.7 to 1
 
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