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I sure hope the block isn’t .060 over.
I’ll know more tomorrow.
I’ll know more tomorrow.
Engine replacement ideas for the 2007 Ram 1500
- Thread starter Kern Dog
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I think that is the procedure. In the book I bought, the dude has some type of angle gauge on the end of the torque wrench. I'll have to get one of those.
I've done a lot of TTY head bolts in the past... Never bought the gauge... I have a pretty good idea what 90 degrees looks like...
But if you really want one..
Amazon product ASIN B004FEPEA8
Back when I was doing it there was no Amazon & Snap it off inya wanted $65 back then..
But if you really want one..
Amazon product ASIN B004FEPEA8
Back when I was doing it there was no Amazon & Snap it off inya wanted $65 back then..
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Thanks, I'm probably overthinking it because I haven't done it before.
I have a history of obsessing over procedure on new ventures......
I have a history of obsessing over procedure on new ventures......
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The man said today that the cylinders are standard bore. Nearly zero taper. I'm quite happy about that. The heads got a slight resurface job just to ensure a proper seal. I doubt it will affect the compression ratio at all. I should have the short block and heads back next week. I want to paint the block and oil pan this color:
Go Man Go !
It looks great on my 440/495:
New hardware for reassembly is nice.
The injectors are getting cleaned.
Does it make any sense to use assembly lube anywhere? It seems that since the engine is already broken in, it should be fine with engine oil on the rocker arms, pushrods, assembly bolts and lifters.
Once I leave this state, I may install headers and high flow catalytic converters and a true dual exhaust setup. Since we are looking at Northern Arizona, there is no emission testing program there.
Go Man Go !
It looks great on my 440/495:
New hardware for reassembly is nice.
The injectors are getting cleaned.
Does it make any sense to use assembly lube anywhere? It seems that since the engine is already broken in, it should be fine with engine oil on the rocker arms, pushrods, assembly bolts and lifters.
Once I leave this state, I may install headers and high flow catalytic converters and a true dual exhaust setup. Since we are looking at Northern Arizona, there is no emission testing program there.
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I don't know how one would prime one of these engines except to disable the ignition and crank it over a few seconds.
Oil pump is driven directly off the crankshaft so the only options are cranking the engine or use a pressure pot & feed through the sending unit port....
6PKRTSE
Well-Known Member
Around here in Michigan, there are all kinds of 3rd Gen Hemi's, drive train and car parts on Marketplace and Graigslist thanks to all of our Detroit locals.
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Update:
I got the short block and heads back several weeks ago. The man staked the intake seats, did a valve job and replaced the stem seals. The short block was deemed well enough to run it as it is.
Here is a little nugget to chew on:
DEALER parts are unbelievably and unreasonably overpriced.
The valve seals alone were almost $200 at the dealer while the Fel Pro gasket kit had them along with intake, exhaust, thermostat housing and valve cover gaskets for $180+ tax.
I have pretty much everything to do the swap but have other things in the way at the moment.
About half the time, the the truck throws a misfire code on a cold start and sometimes on a warm restart. I always clear the code because I detest a warning light glaring at me.
The engine runs a bit rough for 30 seconds and smooths right out. 99% of the time, the engine runs great. You'd be shocked to drive it and look down to see the odometer reading.
I got the short block and heads back several weeks ago. The man staked the intake seats, did a valve job and replaced the stem seals. The short block was deemed well enough to run it as it is.
Here is a little nugget to chew on:
DEALER parts are unbelievably and unreasonably overpriced.
The valve seals alone were almost $200 at the dealer while the Fel Pro gasket kit had them along with intake, exhaust, thermostat housing and valve cover gaskets for $180+ tax.
I have pretty much everything to do the swap but have other things in the way at the moment.
About half the time, the the truck throws a misfire code on a cold start and sometimes on a warm restart. I always clear the code because I detest a warning light glaring at me.
The engine runs a bit rough for 30 seconds and smooths right out. 99% of the time, the engine runs great. You'd be shocked to drive it and look down to see the odometer reading.
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I still have the replacement engine in my shop out back but am hesitant about making the leap.
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My line of thinking has been that I'd prefer to run this original engine as long as I can before swapping it out. What has kept me in this line of thinking is how well it has been running all this time.
It seems silly to pull and swap when this engine still ran great, had adequate oil pressure and decent fuel economy.
Once it started running rough, I wondered if time was running out. The dash lights... the MIL posting codes and all had me thinking that anything that I do is a band aid on a hatchet wound.
The fuel injector swap I did a couple weeks back seemed like it would have helped but it didn't. The recent codes of P0151 and P0174 had me thinking that I need to address them since they would possibly still exist even if I changed the engine.
I was either lucky or good with that one. I was right!
The upstream O2 sensors looked pretty crappy. Here is the LEFT side next to a new one.
Closer.....
Note how the "barrel" at the end was blown apart and mushroomed. The white discoloration is strange too.
Now the right side:
Same condition of the "barrel" but the housing is sooty black, indicating a rich mixture going through.
Finally. original LEFT, RIGHT then a new one for comparison.
The truck idles like new. 500 rpms in drive with the A/C off, 600 with the A/C on.
NO codes. NO lights. Smooth acceleration.
I know the time is coming to replace the engine but I am glad that day is not today.
It seems silly to pull and swap when this engine still ran great, had adequate oil pressure and decent fuel economy.
Once it started running rough, I wondered if time was running out. The dash lights... the MIL posting codes and all had me thinking that anything that I do is a band aid on a hatchet wound.
The fuel injector swap I did a couple weeks back seemed like it would have helped but it didn't. The recent codes of P0151 and P0174 had me thinking that I need to address them since they would possibly still exist even if I changed the engine.
I was either lucky or good with that one. I was right!
The upstream O2 sensors looked pretty crappy. Here is the LEFT side next to a new one.
Closer.....
Note how the "barrel" at the end was blown apart and mushroomed. The white discoloration is strange too.
Now the right side:
Same condition of the "barrel" but the housing is sooty black, indicating a rich mixture going through.
Finally. original LEFT, RIGHT then a new one for comparison.
The truck idles like new. 500 rpms in drive with the A/C off, 600 with the A/C on.
NO codes. NO lights. Smooth acceleration.
I know the time is coming to replace the engine but I am glad that day is not today.
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I'm almost at 397,000 miles. I am amazed that it still runs like it does.
The spare 5.7 needs final assembly but I've concentrated on healing, home repairs and some other pressing car stuff.
I need to swap oil pan gaskets, install the lifters-heads-rockers-pushrods and valve covers and get it to "long block" status so it will be ready to go in when the time comes.
The spare 5.7 needs final assembly but I've concentrated on healing, home repairs and some other pressing car stuff.
I need to swap oil pan gaskets, install the lifters-heads-rockers-pushrods and valve covers and get it to "long block" status so it will be ready to go in when the time comes.
I think a 1/2 million is in sight 
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