Engine starts but won't run after key is released. Ignition switch problem?

[Gary Spaid]

When I start my 440 it fires immediately but when I release the key to run it stops. I have an older restoration that uses the Chrysler Electronic ignition orange box. I suspect the ignition switch. How can I check the switch? Are NOS switches easy to find?

 

[Badvert65]

It could also be a faulty ballast resistor.

 

[CarolinaCharger]

Much better chance of the problem being the resistor than the switch.

 

[R413]

What car is this?

I had a bad ignition box that did this.
check ballast first.
check for power at the blue wire at ballast resistor with key in on position.

chances of the ignition switch causing this is very low.

 

[Gary Spaid]

Thanks I will check out ballast resister in the morning.

 

[Gary Spaid]

Do I even need a ballast resistor with the Chrysler Electronic tronic ignition orange box?

 

[ruffcut]

yes

 

[Nacho-RT74]

If you get the Brake pilot light on cluster (and oil light if equipped) on but dimming while cranking, is NOT the ballast damaged. More toward to ign switch.

But if not, could be either the ballast or the bulkhead plug with blue traced wire loosen. Or ign switch plug loosen

 

[bm02tj]

Do I even need a ballast resistor with the Chrysler Electronic tronic ignition orange box?

It is the coil that needs ballast resistor

 

[440 4 speed]

I have carried an extra ballast resistor for over 40 years, Good insurance.

 

[Gary Spaid]

OK I replaced ballast resistor but no luck. I get power to my tach and to turn signals when switch is on. But nothing to the ballast resistor. Looks like I need to check ignition line thru the bulkhead connector. Any other ideas guys?

 

[Fran Blacker]

Had a burned plug connect steering column. Was a translucent white plug, could see brown burnt connection. Bulkhead connection.

 

[Gary Spaid]

In troubleshooting my ignition problem I found a bad wire that according to the engine compartment wiring diagram (67 GTX) goes to neg side of distributor. But it comes from position J thru the bulkhead disconnect which doesn't seem to have a feed...just stops in the bulkhead, nothing on instrument panel diagram feeding position J. Is this just to GROUND? The line is gray. Also in trying to get it to run I have found ignition switch is good but no continuity from switch thru bulkhead so I am replacing that wire all the way to the ballast resistor bypassing the old fragile bulkhead disconnect. Does this sound like correct approach?

 

[Don Frelier]

In troubleshooting my ignition problem I found a bad wire that according to the engine compartment wiring diagram (67 GTX) goes to neg side of distributor. But it comes from position J thru the bulkhead disconnect which doesn't seem to have a feed...just stops in the bulkhead, nothing on instrument panel diagram feeding position J. Is this just to GROUND? The line is gray. Also in trying to get it to run I have found ignition switch is good but no continuity from switch thru bulkhead so I am replacing that wire all the way to the ballast resistor bypassing the old fragile bulkhead disconnect. Does this sound like correct approach?

Gray wire is for a tachometer.
Bypassing the bulkhead connection is fine as well but how are you planning to run it?
Through an existing hole or through one of the bulkhead cavaties?

 

[Ron H]

Had this same problem, often it can be the ballast or the ignition switch. Mine were fine; but the ignition wire at the BH was loose after having new engine bay wiring in. Noticed heat damage at this wire and replaced the connection. Later I replaced the BH as it was in need of replacing. Must have a tight connection. Way I discovered this is a bud turned the key while I pushed the connection in at the firewall, tight appearing connections aren't always tight...

 

[Gary Spaid]

I found an existing hole near the bulkhead where another wire was run thru. Looks like enough room to run a 2nd wire but I will need a grometted hole for long term.

Gray wire is for a tachometer.
Bypassing the bulkhead connection is fine as well but how are you planning to run it?
Through an existing hole or through one of the bulkhead cavaties?

 

[Gary Spaid]

Gray wire is for a tachometer.
Bypassing the bulkhead connection is fine as well but how are you planning to run it?
Through an existing hole or through one of the bulkhead cavaties?

I thought tach feed was from POS side of coil or does it matter?

 

[RemCharger]

I thought tach feed was from POS side of coil or does it matter?

Nope, negative side.
Also, the ballast resistor protects the ignition box.

 

[Stonehengeheel]

I found an existing hole near the bulkhead where another wire was run thru. Looks like enough room to run a 2nd wire but I will need a grometted hole for long term.

I have used a double layer of shrink wrap to run through the firewall. No problems.

 

[Timmayy]

I just had this problem. It turned out to be the coil. If I kept the starter engaged then it would run. As soon as I released it to the run position, it stalled. To test it I bypassed the + wire from my electric choke to the + side of the coil and it ran fine. I was getting power but apparently with the coil starting to go, it wasn't enough juice with the resistance from the BR. I put a coil from my other car and it cured that problem.