Exhaust Suggestions for a 1970 318 Satellite?

[kylem4711]

Looking to get a full exhaust on my 1970 Plymouth Satellite. It's got a teenie tiny 318 so I know I only have so much to work with, but i'd love a nice rumble.
Any suggestions on headers, mufflers, pipe size, heck even cutouts would be really appreciated.

 

[toolmanmike]

A local exhaust shop would probably be best for that application. Sunnit has a few listed but they are header back or crossmember back and you will still need to go to an exhaust shop for the head pipes.

 

[RemCharger]

2 1/4 would work nicely on that

 

[Sam69sat]

Glasspacks will make that 318 sound good.

 

[toolmanmike]

Glasspacks will make that 318 sound good.

Or like an old pick up truck.

 

[toolmanmike]

Muffler choices? OPINIONS ON EXHAUST SOUND

 

[HawkRod]

A 318 can run very nicely with decent power. But ANY engine is basically an air pump. For performance, you need to get air in (carb and intake) air through (heads) and air out (exhaust manifold/ headers and exhaust).

I will assume your 318 is mostly stock and that you are driving this on the street.

Bottom line is in the "air out" part, your 318 can benefit from a good set of headers and dual exhaust.

1) Headers:
MANY small block headers route three of the driver side tubes below the steering linkage. See picture below:

I DO NOT recommend headers like this, as the three tubes below the steering linkage sit really low, create clearance issues and regularly smash into the ground. Find headers that route differently than the picture above. Also, for your 318, if you have a choice, pick headers with a smaller rather than larger primary tube size.

2) Exhaust:
The good news is for a 1970 Satellite, you will have lots of choices for exhaust and there are kits readily available that will make installation easier.
I suggest getting a dual exhaust with 2 1/2" exhaust pipe (mostly because 2 1/2 is readily available). I also suggest getting a system with an X-Pipe (rather than separate exhaust pipes or an H pipe). An X-pipe helps with torque and your 318 can use any extra torque you can give it.

3) Mufflers:
This is a very personal choice, and there are many available. Some make your car sound like a race car, while others will be relatively quiet. It is all in what you want.

One potential place to look is at Pypes exhaust systems or Accurate Exhaust. Both make good systems for these cars. I'd talk to some representatives at those places to get suggestions on mufflers depending on your goal for sound.

Good Luck!

 

[rumblefish360]

Both car and engines below are low compression and engines and probably what you have in the 318. Maybe lower? The thing here is, a low compression engine lacks the ability to dish out a great sound and any lunch behind the exhaust pulse. But, FYI & viewing pleasure…..

Below is a 1979 - 318 in a ‘74 Duster with a full Jegs kit off of Hooker 1-5/8 headers. This low (7.9-1) compression mill has a Crane Hydraulic 216/228-.454/.480-112 cam in it. It is roughly tuned in the carb and distributor.




Stage 1 - stock engine/minor upgrades like bolt on parts only or a cam or 210@050 or less;

If your running stock exhaust manifolds, the head pipes off of the manifolds can be stock in size. An exhaust shop is probably best for the job in this route for dual exhaust.

Stage 2;

Stock engine
(piston replacement for increased compression optional)
small camshaft upgrade
(at 230@050)
Bolt on aftermarket parts and headers @ 1-5/8 use a 2-1/2 pipe exhaust.

Style of exhaust pipe should include a “H” for the classic muscle car sound, an “X” pipe sound will be slightly different, more unison sound between the pipes rather than the individual pulses between pipes. It’s really splitting hairs on this sound.

Muffler sound is very particular to the person. I myself like 2 mufflers. The DynoMax turbo for its classic but low key rumble and the Aero Chamber for he low toned beastly rumble that has a (IMO) great roar under full throttle.

Below is a 1979 Dodge Magnum with a 1978 - 400-4bbl @ 7.8-1 (or less LMAO!) with a Holley street dominator and headers into a home built true dual exhaust using Flow Master tail pipes and Hooker Aerochambers @ 2-1/2 in size.

 

[Davefinan]

I have used Accurate exhaust out of Oregon for 3 of my 318 cars. i would recommend them. nice dual exhaust you can install yourself. Just tell them what you are trying to achieve sound wise through the mufflers and they’ll set you up.

 

[496 polara]

Being you are in California are headers even an option?

Start with a 2 1/4 dual exhaust and I would run a straight through muffler like magnaflow or Dynomax ultra flow.Dynomax super turbo for a more mellow sound. X or H is up to you.

A budget option would be to keep a single exhaust with a full mandrel bent 2.5 system and a straight through muffler. I like the flowmaster y pipes for connecting a single exhaust without sacrificing flow.
Flowmaster Y200250 Flowmaster Scavenger Series Y Collectors | Summit Racing

 

[kylem4711]

A 318 can run very nicely with decent power. But ANY engine is basically an air pump. For performance, you need to get air in (carb and intake) air through (heads) and air out (exhaust manifold/ headers and exhaust).

I will assume your 318 is mostly stock and that you are driving this on the street.

Bottom line is in the "air out" part, your 318 can benefit from a good set of headers and dual exhaust.

1) Headers:
MANY small block headers route three of the driver side tubes below the steering linkage. See picture below:
View attachment 1560942
I DO NOT recommend headers like this, as the three tubes below the steering linkage sit really low, create clearance issues and regularly smash into the ground. Find headers that route differently than the picture above. Also, for your 318, if you have a choice, pick headers with a smaller rather than larger primary tube size.

2) Exhaust:
The good news is for a 1970 Satellite, you will have lots of choices for exhaust and there are kits readily available that will make installation easier.
I suggest getting a dual exhaust with 2 1/2" exhaust pipe (mostly because 2 1/2 is readily available). I also suggest getting a system with an X-Pipe (rather than separate exhaust pipes or an H pipe). An X-pipe helps with torque and your 318 can use any extra torque you can give it.

3) Mufflers:
This is a very personal choice, and there are many available. Some make your car sound like a race car, while others will be relatively quiet. It is all in what you want.

One potential place to look is at Pypes exhaust systems or Accurate Exhaust. Both make good systems for these cars. I'd talk to some representatives at those places to get suggestions on mufflers depending on your goal for sound.

Good Luck!

Thanks for much for the detailed response. Do you happen to have an example of the headers you are talking about?

 

[kylem4711]

Both car and engines below are low compression and engines and probably what you have in the 318. Maybe lower? The thing here is, a low compression engine lacks the ability to dish out a great sound and any lunch behind the exhaust pulse. But, FYI & viewing pleasure…..

Below is a 1979 - 318 in a ‘74 Duster with a full Jegs kit off of Hooker 1-5/8 headers. This low (7.9-1) compression mill has a Crane Hydraulic 216/228-.454/.480-112 cam in it. It is roughly tuned in the carb and distributor.




Stage 1 - stock engine/minor upgrades like bolt on parts only or a cam or 210@050 or less;

If your running stock exhaust manifolds, the head pipes off of the manifolds can be stock in size. An exhaust shop is probably best for the job in this route for dual exhaust.

Stage 2;

Stock engine
(piston replacement for increased compression optional)
small camshaft upgrade
(at 230@050)
Bolt on aftermarket parts and headers @ 1-5/8 use a 2-1/2 pipe exhaust.

Style of exhaust pipe should include a “H” for the classic muscle car sound, an “X” pipe sound will be slightly different, more unison sound between the pipes rather than the individual pulses between pipes. It’s really splitting hairs on this sound.

Muffler sound is very particular to the person. I myself like 2 mufflers. The DynoMax turbo for its classic but low key rumble and the Aero Chamber for he low toned beastly rumble that has a (IMO) great roar under full throttle.

Below is a 1979 Dodge Magnum with a 1978 - 400-4bbl @ 7.8-1 (or less LMAO!) with a Holley street dominator and headers into a home built true dual exhaust using Flow Master tail pipes and Hooker Aerochambers @ 2-1/2 in size.

This is gold. Thank you for the details and for the videos. Super helpful. This gives me plenty to research.

 

[kylem4711]

I have used Accurate exhaust out of Oregon for 3 of my 318 cars. i would recommend them. nice dual exhaust you can install yourself. Just tell them what you are trying to achieve sound wise through the mufflers and they’ll set you up.

Happen to have any videos you can share of your exhaust? You’re the second person that has said accurate so I’m very interested.

 

[kylem4711]

Being you are in California are headers even an option?

Start with a 2 1/4 dual exhaust and I would run a straight through muffler like magnaflow or Dynomax ultra flow.Dynomax super turbo for a more mellow sound. X or H is up to you.

A budget option would be to keep a single exhaust with a full mandrel bent 2.5 system and a straight through muffler. I like the flowmaster y pipes for connecting a single exhaust without sacrificing flow.
Flowmaster Y200250 Flowmaster Scavenger Series Y Collectors | Summit Racing

I’ve never had any problems. As long as you are being somewhat reasonable and not extremely annoying, everyone is nice. Thanks for the flowmaster link. I’ve generally used flowmaster and wouldn’t mind trying something different this time. Flowmaster has always treated me well though.

 

[WileERobby]

Magnaflow has a great set of headpipes from stock manifolds on a SB. And you can fab the rest of the exhaust. I just did so on my 318, and a dual exhaust with good mufflers, glasspack or otherwise, will sound great. Did so 40+ years ago when we did that in our garage, and will do so again today !

 

[HawkRod]

Thanks for much for the detailed response. Do you happen to have an example of the headers you are talking about?

The headers pictured in my post above (and again first picture below) are Hedman Street Headers 78056. I suggest you avoid those headers due to clearance issues. But there are many other headers that route the tubes the same way. Use the picture as a reference, and if the driver side three tubes look similar (where I circled in red), then stay away. With these headers, your steering linkage sits above the three tubes, so in turn the header tubes have to hang down really low.

Below is a picture of TTI headers for your application. Note the difference in the routing of the driver side header. TTI headers are, in my opinion, the best headers you can get (although they are expensive). But there are other brands of headers that will route the tubes above the steering linkage similar to the TTI headers.

Bottom line is avoid headers that look similar to the first picture. If you start looking at some headers on-line, you'll easily notice the difference.

 

[WileERobby]

The headers pictured in my post above (and again first picture below) are Hedman Street Headers 78056. I suggest you avoid those headers due to clearance issues. But there are many other headers that route the tubes the same way. Use the picture as a reference, and if the driver side three tubes look similar (where I circled in red), then stay away. With these headers, your steering linkage sits above the three tubes, so in turn the header tubes have to hang down really low.
View attachment 1561485


Below is a picture of TTI headers for your application. Note the difference in the routing of the driver side header. TTI headers are, in my opinion, the best headers you can get (although they are expensive). But there are other brands of headers that will route the tubes above the steering linkage similar to the TTI headers.
View attachment 1561483



Bottom line is avoid headers that look similar to the first picture. If you start looking at some headers on-line, you'll easily notice the difference.

View attachment 1561484

Great point. Since I'm going by memory from decades ago, when we did installs on headers there was one brand of SB headers that ran very low underside, may be the one you just depicted. Agree, stay away !

 

[rumblefish360]

Happen to have any videos you can share of your exhaust? You’re the second person that has said accurate so I’m very interested.

Click the link in his post to view the typical SBM header

 

[rumblefish360]

This is gold. Thank you for the details and for the videos. Super helpful. This gives me plenty to research.

Your welcome. Click below for an old thread (‘06) with pictures that may help. IDK. It’s an old project of mine from years back. A ‘74 Duster w/a 318 from the video above. It’s late 4, scroll down for pictures. Hooker headers and a Jegs exhaust kit that included the mufflers beard in the video.

rumblefish's Duster project

 

[YY1]

My 73 has 2.25" duals in aluminized pipe from the factory manifolds.

I get comments all the time about "how good it sounds".

The factory thought dual 2.25" pipes were worth 20 HP.