F*&$ing 318 will just not work

[spcedwards214]

Ok so after numerous, better yet countless, attempts. This thing is not wanting to start. It keeps spitting out fuel out the carb like it does when the timing is off. This 318 has a 4 barrel intake and 4 barrel holley double bowl single pump carb on it. I don't know what kind of cam is it. I just know the engine has been rebuilt has a brand new cam, .40 over pistons, pushrods, etc. I've went over the wiring diagram everything seems to be right. I've checked the timing gears and the cam and crank line up like depicted in the manual and everywhere else. I even adjusted the oiling shaft to be parellel with crank (as per manual) and at TDC the rotor button lines up to number one cylinder. next to fire is number one on the distributor. firing order correct at 18436572. It has a new coil, starter, horn relay, ballast resistor, voltage regulator, 700 cca gold battery, valve clearance set at spec.

I DON'T HAVE A CLUE WHAT ELSE TO DO!

I've read countless forums, wiring diagrams, the manual etc... I'm so lost on this motor....

What else can I possibly do? I know it's getting fuel and spark can see it gush into carb and checked all wires for spark.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Pull an easy to get to spark plug. See if its dripping with gas. If so you need to pull and clean tje spark plugs.

 

[furyus]

Is it pointing at number one on compression stroke? Try rotating the dizzy 180 degrees, and see if that works.

 

[charger318]

Try to advance your distributor just alittle before tdc. If u have it to fire at tdc or posibble 1 degree retarded that can sometimes make the engine almost sound like it has no compression while cranking to start and obviously not start. Also make sure your Carb idle screw is right if u messed with it any might not be adjusted enouph to start like completely shut on the primary valves

 

[barnfind]

Some things to check,
Have you pulled a plug after cranking it? is it wet / dry?
Compression on all cylinders?
verified spark at the plug by grounding one pulled plug and watching the spark.
stuck float?

 

[WP29440SE]

did you wire the distributor clockwise?

I would try a different carb as well. its sounds like it is dumping gas and flooding.

it might be getting start spark , but no run spark.
points ? electronic?

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Sounds like timing is way off like others are saying, you can get any engine to crank over and start with the all the elements in order somehow yours are out of order sounds like you are 180° off with the distributor re check firing order and trace each plug wire out also are you 100% sure spark is getting to the plug from the distrib? Do you need electrical diagram for firing order?

 

[mrsnicks]

I troubleshot an issue on my 318 similar to this. Ended up being a bad ignition condensor. Have you checked the rotation of the distributor. Clockwise or counterclockwise? Is your spark plug sequence going the correct rotation?

Patrick

 

[Trashdog67]

I had a cranking problem after rebuilding my 318LA. When the heads and block were resurfaced it effectively made the pushrods too long by a few thousandths of an inch. This caused the valves on some cylinders to remain open enough to affect compression. I replaced the pushrods with shorter ones and it runs like it should now. Check your compression with all plugs out and engine spinning freely. Just something worth checking. HTH

 

[spcedwards214]

I have physically checked spark on every plug, everything in the dizzy is new. Is there a way to test the ignition condensor? I'm not a 100% sure what cam is in it and I think that's where my issue lies. I don't think the valves ares are correctly opening and closing. All pushrods are equal length but I don't know if they are the correct length. Is there a way of measuring them or determining what size is correct? I'm a mechanic for a living and know motors pretty well but this thing has had me stumped for weeks now. I've tried setting it every way possible then attempting the same with 180' just to see and even moving plugs over and back 1 just for the hell of it. Nothing seems to be working. I know the 318 originally came with a 2 barrel. Is there any major issues with changing it to a 4 barrel? The guy who was building it before swapped the intakes and made it a 4 barrel. I don't know the condition of the inside of the carb but it should at least fully start up for a second or two. Can't even get it to do that on starter fluid or gas.

 

[WP29440SE]

I know the 318 originally came with a 2 barrel. Is there any major issues with changing it to a 4 barrel? The guy who was building it before swapped the intakes and made it a 4 barrel. I don't know the condition of the inside of the carb but it should at least fully start up for a second or two. Can't even get it to do that on starter fluid or gas.

no, it will not matter , unless the carb is junk.

if it is spitting fuel out of the carb , it almost has to be timing, or it is flooding, or it just isn't getting enough fuel.

just thinking out loud here.

I know you have probably done this 100 times, but don't rely on the "rotor pointing to #1 at TDC". the rotor can point to Kansas as long as the rotor is firing the #1 cylinder at TDC. bring the timing mark to exactly TDC, pop the cap and see where it is. set the #1 wire exactly on top of it. if it pops again. flip the rotor 180*. has the timing chain cover been replaced? what year 318 is this? pre 1970 (?) 318's have the timing marks on the right side, and later 318's have it on the left side.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I have physically checked spark on every plug, everything in the dizzy is new. Is there a way to test the ignition condenser? I'm not a 100% sure what cam is in it and I think that's where my issue lies. I don't think the valves areas are correctly opening and closing. All pushrods are equal length but I don't know if they are the correct length. Is there a way of measuring them or determining what size is correct? (Check valve opening an closing with valve covers off, are the springs returning to full close when rocker is up?)

I'm a mechanic for a living and know motors pretty well but this thing has had me stumped for weeks now. I've tried setting it every way possible(did you check firing order and confirm it is right?)

then attempting the same with 180' just to see and even moving plugs over and back 1 just for the hell of it. Nothing seems to be working. I know the 318 originally came with a 2 barrel. Is there any major issues with changing it to a 4 barrel? (No)

The guy who was building it before swapped the intakes and made it a 4 barrel. I don't know the condition of the inside of the carb but it should at least fully start up for a second or two. Can't even get it to do that on starter fluid or gas.

(Try another carb yet? Get a new one for peace of mind)

Are you getting fuel to the carb bowls? is it flooded due to float failure? If you have air, spark and gas then it should fire. You physically saw a spark jump from a plug to ground?

 

[spcedwards214]

yes saw spark jump from ground and the timing cover doesn't have any marks on it. It is a 66' all original from what i'm seeing. Just missing the bracket, ordered a timing cover with the marks but of course it is wrong and on the drivers side, my balancer points to passenger side at TDC. I think the carb is garbage, might try a different one. I've tried 180 out even though I know my timing from the distributor is correct. The oiling shaft was off some teeth (which doesn't really matter) but I corrected it as per the manual to line up with crankshaft and now rotor points to number 1 cylinder (which also doens't matter) as long as the one to fire is #1 on the dizzy. Still doesn't work though. It's got be the carb or something mechanical. I hate going behind people who don't have a clue how or who rebuilt their engine to make sure the parts are the correct parts for that engine. Got a mopar guy who intends on fixing the issue for me and doing some other much needed stuff as i'm burned out with attempts of getting it right. I just don't understand what exactly is the issue, but will surely keep you all informed and give much thanks to those who were right once I get an answer if I do lol. I'm inclined to believe he's going to be stumped too, but who knows. More eyes better the chance of finding something that was missed.

 

[WP29440SE]

yes saw spark jump from ground and the timing cover doesn't have any marks on it. It is a 66' all original from what i'm seeing. Just missing the bracket, ordered a timing cover with the marks but of course it is wrong and on the drivers side, my balancer points to passenger side at TDC. I think the carb is garbage, might try a different one. I've tried 180 out even though I know my timing from the distributor is correct. The oiling shaft was off some teeth (which doesn't really matter) but I corrected it as per the manual to line up with crankshaft and now rotor points to number 1 cylinder (which also doens't matter) as long as the one to fire is #1 on the dizzy. Still doesn't work though. It's got be the carb or something mechanical. I hate going behind people who don't have a clue how or who rebuilt their engine to make sure the parts are the correct parts for that engine. Got a mopar guy who intends on fixing the issue for me and doing some other much needed stuff as i'm burned out with attempts of getting it right. I just don't understand what exactly is the issue, but will surely keep you all informed and give much thanks to those who were right once I get an answer if I do lol. I'm inclined to believe he's going to be stumped too, but who knows. More eyes better the chance of finding something that was missed.

well the good news is that tdc is on the right side of the engine, so you know you are real close. is this a poly head 318 or an LA? anyways, it doesn't really matter. at this point ,if I were you, I would find an edelbrock 1406 and slap it on there. turn the mixture screws out 1 1/2 turns, turn the idle screw in a bit and let 'er rip.

 

[d9103365]

The problem here is you rebuilt a 318 and rurnt it. Everybody knows that 318s never need rebuilding. They run forever.

 

[sleepar]

Its a 5 minute fix... you're getting too hot to see the mistake.. just calm down step away and it will become known... what's even better than that is when they run like a champ but don't turn off.
.

 

[daredevil]

?Run a compression check.

 

[Cranky]

Well, if you don't have a timing pointer on the cover, you need to find true TDC and set up a pointer. Even with a stock cover that has the pointer in the right side, it's still a good idea to do the piston stop method to find true TDC (using a degree wheel). You can also get in the ball park by bringing #1 piston up on it's compression stoke and watching it until it stops. You can stick a finger into the spark plug hole to feel when pressure builds then start watching. Once it stops, see where your timing mark is and put a mark on the cover. At this point with the valve cover off you can watch your valve action. Bar the engine over by hand and make a note when the exhaust valve opens. Once you move the crank, the exhaust should start to open at BDC or around 180 degrees past TDC. Cams can vary but this should tell you if it's not way off. To find true TDC and make sure the cam is where it should be, a degree wheel is the best way to go. If that is right and your ignition timing is close, you should be able to fire it....even with a ill tuned carb. It may not run with a bad carb but it should fire if it at least has a working pump squirter.