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Filling trim holes.

I believe he asked how to do it properly.Not how to hack up the holes and hack the hell out of his car.Most people on here want to fix their car right the first time.Yes we all have slopped some dura hack on rust holes or some type issue to cover it for some time.The question is that the best way to do it?No it is not,now that this person has an idea how it is done correctly.He may make an educated decision on how he wishes to repair it.By the way yes I am a know it all.I have the paper work to show it,the clientel to prove it,and the skills to back it.
 
my quote was not to you Moparpoor but it sounds like your a *** as well.
 
You are right I miss read it.By the way my name is asswhole.I take pride in my abilities,and being an asswhole is one of them.Lighten up a little,if I want an argument I will wake up my wife.WTF.What makes you so special to slander someone else with name calling.

My philosphy Everybody has an opinion.Opinions are like asswholes and managers.Everybody has one,but nobody wants to hear from them!!!:thefinger:
 
Holy smokes.....Firestorm in here. I guess everyone has their own techniques. There is nothing wrong with the poly fillers, but they're not meant to fill holes or be any thicker than 1/16-1/8" at most. Just made to level out/fine tune metal repairs. Like 66 B-Body said, the expansion rate difference is tremendous..Fill a trim hole with that, little cresent moon's galore.. And what's wrong with lead or brazing? Almost all older cars including GM and Ford all leaded and brazed these cars with good luck for decades. C-pillar, Rocker/quarter transition, A-Pillar/cowl, deck filler/trunk gutter are all leaded with brazing here and there from the factory on our older mopars. The big reason folks don't do it anymore is the HAZMAT issue, not because it is a disfunctional way of body repairs. It's time consuming and an art in itself. Back in the day before the poly's, that's what everybody used and is actually where the term "lead sled" came about..
 
If you have a chance to look at a factory finish that is from the 60's or early 70's.I can guarantee you will point out every lead seem.You will notice it has a very dry sandpaper texture.This is the acid left over from the flux used to help with adhesion and flow.They had a product years ago wich would help conceal this,zinc chromate.I has been some time since it has been available,it was a great product.Bad for the enviroment,and expensive.Itsthe same with brass brazing the acid begins to break it down aswell the top coat.With brass their is adhesion problems,some guys would sand blast the ares to try and help the problem.Hell you forgot to mention the pop rivets they used also.I can remember factory collision guide lines for pop riveting in replacement panels.Thats scarry.Don't get me wrong all products have their own set of problems.If used properly you will not have any problems with mig or tig welding.You will not have any problems using a standard filler if used properly.Almost all fillers are polyester filled products,you will have decades of use with no problems.
 
You guys are some master debaters.

Anyway, I weld with copper backers. Works great.

Never tried the nail thing, sounds interesting, but kind of retro.

Thanks
Randy
 
I used the nail thing out of necessity for areas where I couldn't access the back side of the hole with a backer. I was pretty much laughing at myself when I first held a regular nail head inside a trim hole and zapped it in there with the mig. :grin:

I felt extremely backwoods/red neckish. :grin:

But hey, metal is metal…

(I shouldn't have said that, I know I just invited some drunk, angry metallurgist to the trim hole fight) lol!!

Anyways, each to their own. I too am very mindful of the thermal expansion/contraction issue with bodywork. It's why I don't use panel adhesives, I prefer to weld. I've seen classics and muscle cars that have used panel adhesives on quarter skins because it's the "new high tech way" supposedly better because it's so strong, no risk of warpage, faster, easier etc...

Until the car heats up in the sun at the local cruise in car show and the seam shows itself to the world.

All that being said... polyester fillers are not the devil either.

I'm in the middle of a project like many others on this site, my 69 RR was repainted in 1976 and I'm currently removing all that paint and all the fillers and other goodies used for that old repair.

I hogged off a half a gallon of polyester filler out of my driver's side door last night with an 8" gear drive DA running 40 grit paper. That crap had to be pushing 3/4" in depth!! That stuff has been on that door for 35 years!!

It sure as heck didn't need to be that deep, there is a dent in the door with no evidence of any effort to pull the dent.

Anyways, most of you guys have experience with either sanding, chemical stripping or medial blasting a car down. And you know that body filler hides pretty well under that paint. :grin:

But for filling holes "on grade", very risky. Your paint film itself ends up being the carrier for that filler if the hole is on grade with the body... What I mean is, if you don't at least peen or slightly dimple in that hole area before trying to fill it with short chopped glass or whatever, it will most certainly show itself in a short while after the paint is dried.

I am in no way endorsing the method of peening the hole slightly and filling the dimple with chopped glass. I'm just saying... there are "best ways for doing things wrong".

Lol!!

So if you are going to "do it wrong", at least give it your best wrong effort possible.

I must say, I've seen some dandy internet bickering over pit bulls, wolves, unions, motorcycle helmets and religion... but this is the first time I’ve seen this much heat over trim holes Lol!!
 
greenmonsta79 said:
my quote was not to you Moparpoor but it sounds like your a *** as well.
Click to expand...
In your own words from another thread "Take a chill pill dude"

To fill trim holes ill fill it slowly with a mig but that nail idea is a good one
 
Wow all this just to fill a little hole ,Braze it in grind the weld while it,s hot ,Gone in 60 seconds
 
Had to throw that in there to keep the old school body cops from serving up the angry beat down.

lol!!
 
Think I just decided to leave the trim on.....

Just kidding I will weld to be certain. Need to learn sometime anyway. So I'll practice on a sheet full of holes to get a technique going. Use a backing bar and nails for hard to reach spots, got it. Thanks for the help guys. A little disagreement is healthy, makes the world go round and keeps it from getting too boring.
 
Its all in good fun,some people can't handle some one else might have an opinion as well.

Glad to hear your are going to weld them up.Take your time and do it right the first time.Nail head isn't a bad idea,just make sure to clean all the coatings off.Post pics when started to keep us updated.
 
I had a bad day yesterday, so sorry for the comment, but snakeoil24 rubbed me the wrong way on a very VERY bad day! Who knew fists could fly filling a trim hole!!!!! I need a beer. :happy2:
 
Like I said its all in good fun.We all get cranky with a set of poopy pants every now and then no harm done.I will have to admit its a little fun to have a pissing match once in a while.
 
moparpoor said:
You must weld up the holes period.I mean weld them with mig or tig with a steel filler metal.No lead,no silicon brazing,no spray brazing,no brazing,soldering period.Lead is a poor repair as well,it becomes acitic.It will break down in a very long period of time,the big problems is the acitic layer that forms between the lead and top coat.Brazing is even worse,silicon bronze a big maybe at best.Weld the holes up,grind them down,and use a quality filler to finish the imperfections.Take your time with the grinding and welding,don't build a bunch of heat.Don't use a blow gun to cool it,you will harden the weld almost if you water quenched it.Don't use duraglass or all metal.Use a quality polyester based filler(Zgrip or quantum is my choise) to finish off the repair.The repair is not a major job.It is time consuming,if you want to do it right.
Click to expand...

As I mentioned before, and Mopapoor states, Weld up the holes...MIG Brazing is fine, but not many people are familiar with it. MIG steel is the easiest to master and doesn't require a special shielding gas as MIG Brazing does. The one thing I don't agree with Moparpoor about is the use of Dura Glass or All Metal. They are waterproof fillers and are a great foundation overtop of a finished weld. I strongly recommend the use of them prior to filler application...Cheers!
 
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