firewall block off

[Moparmatt72]

Just wondering if anyone knew if a company made some aluminum block off plates for the heater box, wiper motor and stock fuse block? I don't really have the tools to cut to make my own. But would like to block all this off since I removed it all.

 

[sleepar]

Get some tin snips and use DIE tunnel shield on both sides of the firewall... the shield comes in rolls just don't line up the seams on both sides the same and a poprivit gun and some long reach (2") aluminum pops with big (3/4) heads and use a stainless washer on the other side of the rivet.... then you will have a real firewall that will protect you from heat....

 

[Moparmatt72]

Well I plan this is just a quick plug fix for now once I get the cage put into my car I'm going to have a new aluminum fire wall put in place and put some dei adhesive heat shield put on the back. Jusy wanting to plug the holes for now

 

[sleepar]

Still going to be cheaper and easier to get a pair of snips and some sheet metal and make some than someone sending you some he doesn't need for that specific car...

 

[Moparmatt72]

True looking into the sheet metal now, thank you for the advise. Another reason why I want a aluminum firewall is cause Im moving the engine back a bit for more room in the engine compartment for my next 572 TT motor build

 

[sleepar]

If you're not fussy a coffee can or old muffler or washer scrap is free at any yard or on the side of the road before you spend money at hardware store....

 

[Moparmatt72]

Naw the sheet metal is only $10 for a 24x36 sheet. Cut it, silicone it and paint it no biggie, good thing I don't care to much about it being "pretty" its a mostly drag car but street legal

 

[sleepar]

Sounds nice man... I threw the scrap in there because I think it looks cool to have a little recycled junk or favorite brand of beer as a body plug or patch

 

[Moparmatt72]

That would be cool looking.

 

[sleepar]

$10 dollars in fosters lager or a clean piece of sheet metal....

 

[coloradodave]

Moparmatt72: If you're going to go all out with a cage and an aluminum firewall then this is the perfect time to do it right and get some experience at the same time.
#1: Go to Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc. (I use speedymetals.com) and buy a 24" X 24" piece of 1/8" (.125") aluminum.
#2: If you don't already have one, go to any of the above and buy a saber saw (jig saw) and some blades to cut non-ferrous metal.
#3: Make cardboard patterns sized to cover the holes you want to cover.
#4: Transfer the patterns to the aluminum with a sharpie.
#5: Cut out the patterns.
#6: Hand file the edges smooth.
#7: Drill several 3/16" holes around the perimeter of the new plates.
#8: Using self tapping #8 X 1/2" Tek screws (same source as the aluminum), screw the block off plates to the firewall.
#9: Optionally, you can polish the aluminum with fine sandpaper and Mother's aluminum polish to shine like chrome.
#10: Optionally, adhere heat/sound mat inside firewall, although if you're going to ditch the firewall I wouldn't spend the money.
#11: Stand back and admire your work!

 

[sleepar]

Moparmatt72: If you're going to go all out with a cage and an aluminum firewall then this is the perfect time to do it right and get some experience at the same time.
#1: Go to Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc. (I use speedymetals.com) and buy a 24" X 24" piece of 1/8" (.125") aluminum.
#2: If you don't already have one, go to any of the above and buy a saber saw (jig saw) and some blades to cut non-ferrous metal.
#3: Make cardboard patterns sized to cover the holes you want to cover.
#4: Transfer the patterns to the aluminum with a sharpie.
#5: Cut out the patterns.
#6: Hand file the edges smooth.
#7: Drill several 3/16" holes around the perimeter of the new plates.
#8: Using self tapping #8 X 1/2" Tek screws (same source as the aluminum), screw the block off plates to the firewall.
#9: Optionally, you can polish the aluminum with fine sandpaper and Mother's aluminum polish to shine like chrome.
#10: Optionally, adhere heat/sound mat inside firewall, although if you're going to ditch the firewall I wouldn't spend the money.
#11: Stand back and admire your work!

Great advise on that......
#11 ?Why put a plate there when you have several holes in the body below it you could have used ? I would loom all the wires together to tidy it up some.. I like how you have the booster hose though... assuming it goes to a vac pump under the dash and not just pinched off back there...

 

[coloradodave]

Great advise on that......
#11 ?Why put a plate there when you have several holes in the body below it you could have used ? I would loom all the wires together to tidy it up some.. I like how you have the booster hose though... assuming it goes to a vac pump under the dash and not just pinched off back there...

Gee, thanks for all the spiffy advice, that I didn't ask for. That picture was taken a couple of years ago when I was wiring the car. The plate goes over the BIG hole where the old bulkhead connector was. The vacuum hose for the booster was spun up out of the way while I was working on the wiring. Notice there is no steering column either. If you took the time to look at my pictures before making idiotic comments about "pinched off hoses" you might appear to be more intelligent.

 

[sleepar]

Dumb me didn't see the other pic before you posted it.... still I would have shaved the bulk head smooth and used an existing single hole to route wires.... but the thread was about what to do as a temporary fix to cover the holes till he got to do the permanent way he wanted. Glad you agree. And you are welcome for the advise in advance for any other questions you may have... like moving the coil to the inner fender so it will stay cooler and last longer... and not lay on the fuel line.
:yourock: I can't see the block off plate in the pic?

 

[coloradodave]

Gee, more advice that I didn't ask for. You are just full of it, aren't you? FYI, the coil isn't laying on the fuel line and I prefer to have the coil closer to the distributor, just as the manufacturer designed it to be. I guess you read a lot of those handy tips, huh? I've been working on and drag racing cars for over 50 years and NEVER had a coil go bad.
I, for one, would like to see pictures of YOUR ride so we can see all these neat ideas you've incorporated. Can't wait, so please post some up...

 

[benno440]

Dumb me didn't see the other pic before you posted it.... still I would have shaved the bulk head smooth and used an existing single hole to route wires.... but the thread was about what to do as a temporary fix to cover the holes till he got to do the permanent way he wanted. Glad you agree. And you are welcome for the advise in advance for any other questions you may have... like moving the coil to the inner fender so it will stay cooler and last longer... and not lay on the fuel line.
:yourock: I can't see the block off plate in the pic?

you have never seen a mopar firewall have you?, where he has the aluminium cover is actually quite a large hole underneath there as that was the original placement of the connector went, now dave has removed it he had to cover it up and it is done quite stylishly. there is no other existing holes in the firewall in that area to run the wires through.

see i did mine too

 

[sleepar]

Doesn't look temporary... so what do you plan on doing after you tear it out? And why put the wires in looms to tidy them up if that's sutch a bad idea? These looked finished.... I suggest useing an existing hole and completely weld up the bulk head. So you only have to seal one hole and not one around the other...... but at least you showed a pic of what he was talking about his picture didn't show the finished work he did... it only showed what I pointed out and he did pretty much that but the looms help seal the holes and tidy it up better look up my photos on my profile and see mine... I have had trouble posting on here. But it doesn't matter anyway the thread was about temporarily covering the holes and if any one had pieces laying around and I suggested marking some and out of a fosters can... he's just trying to get buy till he tears his fire wall out... read the thread. An I wish I could get 50 years out of the same coil.... I'm only able to squeeze 20 out of mine.

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Gee, more advice that I didn't ask for. You are just full of it, aren't you? FYI, the coil isn't laying on the fuel line and I prefer to have the coil closer to the distributor, just as the manufacturer designed it to be. I guess you read a lot of those handy tips, huh? I've been working on and drag racing cars for over 50 years and NEVER had a coil go bad.
I, for one, would like to see pictures of YOUR ride so we can see all these neat ideas you've incorporated. Can't wait, so please post some up...

If I only drove a 1/4 mile at a time I would never had a bad coil either... once I get about an hour the coil if it's bad will show it or when it's raining... so you probably don't drag in the rain..... I was working on cars before computers so I must have learned everything from here first.... I can't even post pictures on here right and had questions about that long before now but there are some. Contribute to the thread or forum it's not about how much thunder or how much we know or how long... the coil is closer to the distributor on the fender well and up right and cooler there on a big block... mopar was not ever a reason to do anything. Especially electronics. Blow it out your ***.... we have been reworking these cars and there is been many innovations since they were new. You run the stock cam and poly tires? If not why remove the bulk head connector???? Free to build your car they way you want??? Your opinions are more valid than the next guy/gal (sorry if I offended someone's grand mother) but your like 2 old ladies on here... LOL

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you have never seen a mopar firewall have you?, where he has the aluminium cover is actually quite a large hole underneath there as that was the original placement of the connector went, now dave has removed it he had to cover it up and it is done quite stylishly. there is no other existing holes in the firewall in that area to run the wires through.

see i did mine too
View attachment 195006

I can't find any thing wrong with that except the coil would be Happier on the fender well and the bulk head would work better with a single hole rather than the plate with a hole in it... MO. Take it for what it's worth.... I'm learning here too but search my posts on here and tell me again I never seen a mopar fire wall. I drilled my bulk head connector out so it looks bone stock... best of both worlds

 

[coloradodave]

Where did I say I got 50 years out of a coil? And, concerning the bulkhead connector, my car is a hotrod and I completely rewired it from scratch so there's no need for connections at the firewall. One group of wires goes left toward the front of the car and the other goes right for the motor. And, concerning the coil. did you talk to the coil directly to find out that it would be happier on the inner fender?
I guess I finally got to you as you wrote "blow it out your *ss". And here I thought you weren't taking my comments seriously. When the conversation shifts to one person using profanity, it usually means that they are out of useful information and intelligence. Soooo, this "old lady" will quit this thread, as I'm tired of trying to decipher your posts...and I guess YOU don't really have a car of any kind...
Benno, Still love your ride.

 

[Lowhound]

Cant we all just get along?

 

[benno440]

Cant we all just get along?

sometimes stupidity prevents this