The old saying. “Not If but When”

[malex]

So this is the time of year when lots of us guys have hibernated into the garage and get to working on their off-season list. My list had a number of items, one being engine refresh, which is the last one on my list. Originally built in 2015, it was time for my 505. Coming apart everything looked excellent and it seemed like nothing but a new set of rings, brgs, timing set and cylinder heads touch up. I did find one lifter that was iffy also so a new set will also go in. Upon further clean up and close inspection though, what the hell, #2 main web has a crack leading down into the bottoms of 1 & 3 cylinders. This crack could have been in the making for years, there was no signs of a problem. The old girl was dipping into the 9.’s last time out and not missing a beat. Regardless, things just took a turn for the worse.

Just like I’ve heard here many times from many people those stock RB blocks will crack once the HP gets up there. Not IF but WHEN. So coming across this was not that much of a surprise. Even with Aluminum main caps, main stud girdle and a lightweight crank. Oh well.

Last time out.


I’ve always said that when the 505 dies It’ll be time for a 540, aftermarket block on pump gas. Mancini has blocks for 5,999.00, shipping included within the US. Then. A Buddy says to me. I have an RB block. It’s been sitting for 40 years - use it. A couple days later the block showed up at my place and a new plan got underway.

Block cleaned up. Water jackets got the Muriatic Acid treatment and a partial Hard Blok fill is complete. Block is now out for bore, line hone with main studs, decking, etc. The 540 pump gas plan got moved back to the next time around. That would have likely opened a new can of worms anyways, with the old Plymouth limited to 10.00 as it sits now. If this Round 2 505 lasts 9 years like the first one did, holy smokes the age number..

But the rest of the list is wrapped up. And I did end up finding 53lbs, all of it off the front - glass hood included. Although the HardBlok put some Lbs back in. Will still meet my 3200Lb less driver with fuel target.

Tidied up electrical and some other areas. Was eyeing the firewall reinforcement plate, but it dodged the cut for now.

Steering column got very lighter.

Electric shift addition for ‘24.

That’s what’s shaking in my camp this off-season. Even pounded the oil pan back out straight again.

 

[RemCharger]

Wow. Luck- eeee.
Is that at the big shop? Even luckier to have it being worked on so promptly! He's got about 50+ mills there from what I hear

 

[zyzzyx]

Man! There's no fixing that! Glad you were able to get another block so quick.

 

[stage3]

aftermarket block on pump gas.

Wow,, fortunately u caught it before it split in half, i'm on the lookout also for a mega wedge block. a local guy has 1 that came out of a motor home no less !! that so far hasnt accepted my offer for it, still looking.....good luck.

 

[malex]

Wow. Luck- eeee.
Is that at the big shop? Even luckier to have it being worked on so promptly! He's got about 50+ mills there from what I hear

Not sure how long it’s been cracked. I would think a coolant or temp issue would have shown up before hard failure. Yes same place, likely more than that in the cue. A good long time friend dating back to the mid 70’s.

 

[malex]

Wow,, fortunately u caught it before it split in half, i'm on the lookout also for a mega wedge block. a local guy has 1 that came out of a motor home no less !! that so far hasnt accepted my offer for it, still looking.....good luck.

I understand that those blocks have more meat in the problem areas. Hope it works out for you landing that block. BTW, had the Hemi fired up yesterday. Somewhat rich to start with - right carb primary float needed a tweaking. How the hell can something change after sitting only a few months. But, boy oh boy she sure does run fine now compared to before. Thanks again for your expertise and assistance with those 770’s.

Edit - Perhaps it was the shltty fuel sticking things up. Last summer I had some fuel from those carbs in the pan when I had them apart. Dumped it in the lawnmower and cut the grass, worked fine. A week later I try to fire up the lawn mower, no start. No compression. Damn intake valve was glued open…. Lol. Serves me right.

 

[malex]

Man! There's no fixing that! Glad you were able to get another block so quick.

Yes a good friend had one. It made sense to go that route. The rotating assembly will drop right in.

 

[F4R/T]

What kind of big numbers did you have with that old block? HP/ Torque

 

[Curiousyellow71]

That was plenty close to not saving much! Split a cylinder on ours and 2 rods were in the pan.. Somehow we saved it w 2 sleeves and detuned for street car duty. Kind of like puting the old cow to greener pasture to live out its days.

Was your old engine short filled like the new engine? Curious if the cracks started high in cylinder or low on the main. Not that it really matters.Lol

 

[JackpotJim]

Love your transmission support for when the motor is out of the car. Great design using the torsion bars.

 

[malex]

What kind of big numbers did you have with that old block? HP/ Torque

Initially with the Indy Cross Ram / 750 Eddies 720HP, 677 TQ. It probably gained another 20/30 along the way with changes.

 

[malex]

I

That was plenty close to not saving much! Split a cylinder on ours and 2 rods were in the pan.. Somehow we saved it w 2 sleeves and detuned for street car duty. Kind of like puting the old cow to greener pasture to live it days.

Was your old engine short filled like the new engine? Curious if the cracks started high in cylinder or low on the main. Not that it really matters.Lol

No fill on the old motor. Hard fill is new over here. I believe the cracks started at the main web and worked their way to the cylinder. One would never know there was a problem, the old girl ran as sweet as ever.
I actually made the joke, going to use my left over Hard Block, fix those cylinder cracks and throw the old 440 crank and 6 pack rods back into it.

 

[stage3]

I understand that those blocks have more meat in the problem areas. Hope it works out for you landing that block. BTW, had the Hemi fired up yesterday. Somewhat rich to start with - right carb primary float needed a tweaking. How the hell can something change after sitting only a few months. But, boy oh boy she sure does run fine now compared to before. Thanks again for your expertise and assistance with those 770’s.

Edit - Perhaps it was the shltty fuel sticking things up. Last summer I had some fuel from those carbs in the pan when I had them apart. Dumped it in the lawnmower and cut the grass, worked fine. A week later I try to fire up the lawn mower, no start. No compression. Damn intake valve was glued open…. Lol. Serves me right.

not a problem ! i think it just comes with the territory that a crossram motor with any carbs is going to be temperamental... BTw shifter wise i am doing the same thing, i bought a PPP shifter assembly with the air shift components, and by the looks of your dash we installed the same biondo control module in the same spot,, . i will try to remember some pics tomorrow i will share.

 

[Dave6T4]

Wow, that crack is crazy! You are very lucky that it did not come apart during use (misuse?) LOL

 

[malex]

Wow, that crack is crazy! You are very lucky that it did not come apart during use (misuse?) LOL

Yet the crank looked perfect as did the main bearings. The backside of the bearing in that saddle did have a slightly visible mark that matched the crack.
Many times when I’ve heard of guys with cracked webs on the RB’s, they were found during inspection like mine. Although I have no doubt that some come real apart.
I used to work on a lot of 2 stroke Detroits last century, cracked main webs was common to find on those as well. Maybe it’s just my luck.

 

[Tex013]

fortunate find , my 505 only went about 18 months before splitiing into coolant system . To be honest I would go a new block now after this warning . I wont build a factory block stroker again . I got a World iron block and was able to swap my complete rotating assembly into it . Like you i was wary of 540ci as i am a 10.00 only legal car . Funny enough World block is right on 90lbs heavier yet car is not slower and runs better hotter .

Tex

 

[RemCharger]

Not sure how long it’s been cracked. I would think a coolant or temp issue would have shown up before hard failure. Yes same place, likely more than that in the cue. A good long time friend dating back to the mid 70’s.

Your friend should make some new shirts next year

 

[malex]

fortunate find , my 505 only went about 18 months before splitiing into coolant system . To be honest I would go a new block now after this warning . I wont build a factory block stroker again . I got a World iron block and was able to swap my complete rotating assembly into it . Like you i was wary of 540ci as i am a 10.00 only legal car . Funny enough World block is right on 90lbs heavier yet car is not slower and runs better hotter .

Tex

Appreciate the advise Tex. The 540 is still a plan. Back up plan now.

 

[Tex013]

Malex ,
dont forget with a new block if 4.320 , so iron , you can go 4.41 bore for 520ish . this is a ford bore size i believe so rings etc are not a problem . Mine will only get out there or 4.5 if i have some sort of failure and damage bores enough I am 4.350 now . I am sure with another 35 cubes I can get down to 10.00 or a little better even with my sft , not forgetting weight loss from block with that 4.41 or 4.5 bore is quite a bit . The World block is siamese too . Not sure what Jason is doing with his blocks or Callies

Tex

 

[malex]

Malex ,
dont forget with a new block if 4.320 , so iron , you can go 4.41 bore for 520ish . this is a ford bore size i believe so rings etc are not a problem . Mine will only get out there or 4.5 if i have some sort of failure and damage bores enough I am 4.350 now . I am sure with another 35 cubes I can get down to 10.00 or a little better even with my sft , not forgetting weight loss from block with that 4.41 or 4.5 bore is quite a bit . The World block is siamese too . Not sure what Jason is doing with his blocks or Callies

Tex

That’s good info Tex. An aftermarket block is the way to go and I’m keeping an eye out. In the meantime I’m gonna use this block and stuff my rotating assembly into it. It’ll buy me time and keep me out of 9 second issues.

The new block will be built into a 540. 4.250 X 4.500 with a new rotating assembly.
A new Callies block today - including tax, not including shipping and in CDN funds is $9,000.00
Exchange rates sure kick the hell out of us hey.