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Flexplate help

And for the record I've swapped 2 dozen engines, probably more, of all 3 makes and even some Diesel engines. And never never not once has this happened.
This is my 1st Chrysler R/B. My previous experience with Chrysler is 318s and 3.9L.
And boy was that simple in comparison. Lol
 
Th

They're the bolts that came with the converter.
I tried every conceivable combination. Was able to get 3 bolts in but never 4.
Pulled the motor and removed the fp. Removed the TC and grabbed the old tc.
The go will not line up with more than 3 holes on either.
Always 1/4 hole off in the last hole.

The farmer in my wants to simply drill the hole bigger. (If it was a Dakota I would have already)

But I figure I better do it proper.
So tomorrow I will find another do and take my 2 tcs and 1fp and go compare. Hopefully this will work.
Pulling the damn motor again by myself was a bit frustrating. I chipped some paint on my top radiator support. No biggy but still

And for the record I've swapped 2 dozen engines, probably more, of all 3 makes and even some Diesel engines. And never never not once has this happened.
This is my 1st Chrysler R/B. My previous experience with Chrysler is 318s and 3.9L.
And boy was that simple in comparison. Lol
What size bolts does the converter lugs have, 5/16" or 7/16"? I have flex plates for the 7/16" with the "small" 10" bolt circle if you need one, SFI approved. If you have it out and can lay the flex plate on the converter try all the positions and no fit you need another FP. I may be dreaming but I dimly recall some late model converters didn't have the offset lug, maybe lockup style?
 
What about blue locktight?
I've had these things come loose more than once.
Even though I'm not into automatics, I remember a loose converter bolt sounding like a bottom end knock.
Surely use some Loctite even if the bolts have serrations under the bolt head. I wouldn't trust that locking feature on it's own.
Blue will likely get you by but I wouldn't have a problem using red for the flex/convert bolts. Just use a bit of heat to remove.

Times have changed, so do parts I suppose.
With an offset crank flange bolt pattern are there flex plates available that you can install backwards and still get all six bolts in?
 
What size bolts does the converter lugs have, 5/16" or 7/16"? I have flex plates for the 7/16" with the "small" 10" bolt circle if you need one, SFI approved. If you have it out and can lay the flex plate on the converter try all the positions and no fit you need another FP. I may be dreaming but I dimly recall some late model converters didn't have the offset lug, maybe lockup style?
Late model converter and fp was marked for offset matting and converter had no drain plug.
 
What about blue locktight?
I've had these things come loose more than once.

Well, my point being...if you insist on using standard grade bolts with the smaller head do not use washers as that will raise the head more and create interference with the block when rotated. Locktite is acceptable. Make certain that the bolts do not bottom out in the converter.

However, if you use the correct larger headed converter bolts washers are not necessary.
 
Even though I'm not into automatics, I remember a loose converter bolt sounding like a bottom end knock.
Surely use some Loctite even if the bolts have serrations under the bolt head. I wouldn't trust that locking feature on it's own.
Blue will likely get you by but I wouldn't have a problem using red for the flex/convert bolts. Just use a bit of heat to remove.

Times have changed, so do parts I suppose.
With an offset crank flange bolt pattern are there flex plates available that you can install backwards and still get all six bolts in?
The plate I have is beveled to accomadate the crank.
It would take a great measure of effort to install backwards. Holes would line up but the bevel would make tightening them difficult.
I've had converter bolts cone loose on Chevy twice. It sounds terrible.
 
Here take a look.
1st pic is brand new B&M converter
2nd pic is old time ma mopar converter
20180310_101136.jpg
20180310_100412.jpg


It's not the Cheap Napa flexplate, it's the pos B&M converter.
I knew I should have went with Hughes.
The old converter will work.
It appears that B&M did not offset the one hole!

**** B&M!
 
What size bolts does the converter lugs have, 5/16" or 7/16"? I have flex plates for the 7/16" with the "small" 10" bolt circle if you need one, SFI approved. If you have it out and can lay the flex plate on the converter try all the positions and no fit you need another FP. I may be dreaming but I dimly recall some late model converters didn't have the offset lug, maybe lockup style?
Did exactly as you said.
Of course I had to pull the motor first.
Unfortunately both my converters have the baby bolts.
I have a brand new set of ARP 7/16 if anybody interested.
 
B&M uses old, used, beat up OE cores, bought one from Summit and it was so beat up I sent it back.
I used to be a trans r and r guy (looong time ago) and ran in to stuff like this all the time with rebuilt converters.
I think the later converters were not off set.
 
If you have the small bolt converter lugs you need the B&M full circle flex plate that has all the bolt pattern/size combinations. You can't (or sure shouldn't) use small bolts in big holes & you definitely need to use Loktite & the thin head bolts.
 
I just got back from a friend's place.
He had a dozen or so flexplate and not a damn one of them would work with this converter, every one of them would work with the old converter.

I'm going to try and get my money back from Summit.

Let this be a lesson, no more B & M products in my garage or on my farm again!

Should I take the photo and have a sticky thread made?
 
Should I take the photo and have a sticky thread made?
Start a new thread stating facts and back it with photos and I'll take a look at it.....contact me by PM here.

Also, try to remove the emotion from the posting. :D
 
I just got back from a friend's place.
He had a dozen or so flexplate and not a damn one of them would work with this converter, every one of them would work with the old converter.

I'm going to try and get my money back from Summit.

Let this be a lesson, no more B & M products in my garage or on my farm again!

Should I take the photo and have a sticky thread made?

Obviously my earlier assumption that the flexplate would be the culprit was in error. I heard of a lot of issues with B&M converters. I went with a Hughes and it seems to be fine.

For what it's worth, I tried 3 or 4 flexplates trying to find what seemed like a good quality one and everyone of them had generously oversize bolt holes. From memory they all measured over 3/8 inch for my 5/16 inch bolts - some of them nearly - but not quite - 7/16 inch.
 
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