Flexplate help

[BeeKool]

Quick!
I just dropped the motor in last night.
Can't get flexplate bolts to line up. The first bolt goes in but the next is off by 1/4 hole.
This goes for all the holes, tried them all.
Torque converter is B&M
Flexplate a generic Napa
I'm pretty sure that I didn't put the flexplate on backwards, but even if I did, it wouldn't change the distance between holes.
Pull the motor again and throw the flexplate through Napa store window and buy a different one?

 

[AR67GTX]

I may be telling you what you already know - but one of the holes is not on 90 degrees so the torque converter and flexplate will only bolt together in one position. I matched mine up before installing and marked the odd hole with paint on both the TC and FP so I could get them positioned easily during installation.

If I am just telling you what your already know - maybe you did bolt the flex plate in backwards. Not even sure if that is possible - but maybe. You should have about 1/8 to 3/16 inch space between the flexplate and the TC and have to pull the TQ forward slightly to bolt to the flexplate. If that's pretty much what you have, then I think you have it in right.

 

[BeeKool]

TC is in place. I've rooted the TC and tried 4 different times. Can always get the first, the the next bolt is off by a gnats ***.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

1. this is good advice from ar67gtx (my first guess)...check each hole again.
2. it might not be the flexplate, but the combination. I'm not sure about Mopars, but I've run into an issue on a Ford where the bolt patterns on the flywheel (flex plate on a Mopar) & the torque converter were different between brands.... are real PIA once the transmission is already up there.
3. it's been a while for me, but I believe the flex plate should stick back slightly towards the transmission. I'm not sure if it would even bolt on with the 4 "fingers" facing forwards towards the block, but if it could, that might throw your angles off slightly when one bolt is in...check the service manual.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

TC is in place. I've rooted the TC and tried 4 different times. Can always get the first, the the next bolt is off by a gnats ***.

Dang.....now which NAPA is getting a steel Frisbee through the window? If it's that close, it "could" be a machining problem. I would still give it one more try around AND take a close look to make sure the transmission is bolted up flush vs. the block & doesn't have a bolt or two hanging up & cocking the transmission case sideways....worth a look anyway.

 

[threewood]

Always always bolt up and mark the flex plate before it goes on the engine.

Trans Is completely Bolted Up And TC spins freely? Don't tighten any bolt down until they are all threaded into the TC, leave them loose so it can be shifted a smidgen if needed.

 

[PRND21]

I get a lot of my parts through Napa, but I’d probably have got my flexplate from the same company as the converter. Just thinking they might be a better quality. Don’t know for sure. Also thinking you might want to use grade 8 bolts.

 

[66Satellite47]

ONE OF THE BOLTS IS OFFSET. Try putting one bolt in finger tight but snug. Rotate by hand 90* at a time & see if all the three others will line up. If so & all line up paint that spot on the flex plate AND that lug on the converter. If not, pull the installed bolt, rotate the CONVERTER ONLY 90*, re-install 1 bolt finger tight. Rotate crank 90* at a time check to see if all three other bolts line up, if not do same process again. It may take up to four attempts. ONCE YOU GET IT LINED UP correctly, be sure to mark the converter and flexplate

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Sorry to say I would play it safe and pull the trans back out to be positive. I will also ad IMOP there are certain parts NOT to cheap out.................

 

[threewood]

I get a lot of my parts through Napa, but I’d probably have got my flexplate from the same company as the converter. Just thinking they might be a better quality. Don’t know for sure. Also thinking you might want to use grade 8 bolts.

Those bolts are a special thin, wide head bolt specifically for the TC. I just zoomed in on your pick BeeKool... if those are standard sized bolts you may run into issues.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Those bolts are a special thin, wide head bolt specifically for the TC. I just zoomed in on your pick BeeKool... if those are standard sized bolts you may run into issues.

Didn't have to zoom to see that.I will reuse my ARB bolts but never stock ones.......

 

[threewood]

Didn't have to zoom to see that.I will reuse my ARB bolts but never stock ones.......

Yep, ARP bolts are cheap insurance.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Curious, are the alignment dowel pins in the back of the engine block? Or did you just use the bolts between engine & transmission for alignment?

 

[BeeKool]

Th

Those bolts are a special thin, wide head bolt specifically for the TC. I just zoomed in on your pick BeeKool... if those are standard sized bolts you may run into issues.

They're the bolts that came with the converter.
I tried every conceivable combination. Was able to get 3 bolts in but never 4.
Pulled the motor and removed the fp. Removed the TC and grabbed the old tc.
The go will not line up with more than 3 holes on either.
Always 1/4 hole off in the last hole.

The farmer in my wants to simply drill the hole bigger. (If it was a Dakota I would have already)

But I figure I better do it proper.
So tomorrow I will find another do and take my 2 tcs and 1fp and go compare. Hopefully this will work.
Pulling the damn motor again by myself was a bit frustrating. I chipped some paint on my top radiator support. No biggy but still

 

[mopar 3 B]

If your installing engine and trans together why wasn't this done before it went in?

 

[PP1RT]

If your installing engine and trans together why wasn't this done before it went in?

He didnt.

 

[threewood]

Th

They're the bolts that came with the converter.

Those are standard grade 5 bolts. Don't put washers under them.

 

[AR67GTX]

The FP is probably drilled off alignment then. I bet the TC is OK. I went through a couple of PFs before I finally picked one from Mancini Racing to go with. The original actually was the thickest steel of any of them but it was a little wavy to reuse. The biggest concern I had was the oversize drilled/punched holes in all the FPs. I finally stopped worrying about it and figure they oversize them generously so there is no problem with self-centering before the bolts are snugged down and torqued.

 

[BeeKool]

Those are standard grade 5 bolts. Don't put washers under them.

What about blue locktight?
I've had these things come loose more than once.

 

[BeeKool]

The FP is probably drilled off alignment then. I bet the TC is OK. I went through a couple of PFs before I finally picked one from Mancini Racing to go with. The original actually was the thickest steel of any of them but it was a little wavy to reuse. The biggest concern I had was the oversize drilled/punched holes in all the FPs. I finally stopped worrying about it and figure they oversize them generously so there is no problem with self-centering before the bolts are snugged down and torqued.

That's good to know I'm not crazy.
Only problem is, I need a different one quick. I want this car running this week, and as it sits it's w/o a motor. Today I'm going to call every parts store and every mopar guy in the area.