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Found a new project. Ram D250

This truck is trying my patience. Drove it today to the store, speedo stopped working. Again. And no turn signals. I got home, swapped out my original VSS that I "fixed" for a new one I had on my shelf. Working again.

For the turn signals, I checked the flasher and it was loose so I pulled the wires and tightened the ends up. Seemed to have fixed it, for now. I'll see what doesn't work tomorrow lol.

The headache guard behind the rear glass was booger welded by a retard. Several sections were loose. So I blasted the edges up and re welded the entire thing. And painted it.
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And to prep for spray on bedliner, I primed the rusty bed with Corroseal rust converter.
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Moving on to the planning and execution of reviving of the A/C system. I am going to use the compressor/fittings from the donor motor because it is free, and uses r134 already. I'm getting a new condenser, dryer, expansion valve along with new #12, #10, and #6 RB hose/ferrules. I plan to keep the old hard fittings and mate them to the new hose. I have the crimper from my Belvedere A/C project. This should be fun.
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Day 3 driving it and all is well with the signal lights, brake lights, and headlights. I did realize the fuel sender is sending back incorrect data from the tank. Went from full to 1/2 tank overnight, then to 3/4 and back. I might need to clean up the contacts once I get the fuel level down.
 
I had an issue the last few drives where the speedometer quit working, it would flicker back to life then die later.
So this issue cropped up a couple more times and I narrowed it to the speedometer itself. If I manipulate the odo reset stalk, the speedometer comes to life. The stalk doesn't do anything and feels jammed / stripped. I have a replacement set of internal gears I need to swap out and then I can test for a bad internal connection/bad solder, etc.
 
I had a speedo rebuilt for my Shelby Charger. The shop told me some of the nylon gears swell up and jamb the movement.
 
I had a speedo rebuilt for my Shelby Charger. The shop told me some of the nylon gears swell up and jamb the movement.
Bill, I have the gears (one large, one small) so hopefully that gets the odometer working. I'm not sure what is causing the speedo to go in and out. No cable, all electronic. The speedo plugs into the circuit board on three prongs. There could be broke solder contacts. I'm going to try and pull it this afternoon. I'll post pictures.
 
Partial success. I replaced the damaged gear and looked things over. The trip odometer will not reset. The odometer has not clicked over. The trip odometer moved over from 0 to 3 then stopped. The next time I looked it was at 5 so it is flaky. The speedometer works perfectly. This beast may be stuck at 210k forever. If it starts to go backwards, I'll let you know my car is possessed.
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These 3 prongs are the electrical connection for the speedo. I checked continuity on the circuit board side and speedo side, both ohmed out fine. Problem with the odometer could be the small speedo circuit board ( I inspected the solder already) or the gearing/electric pickup. Which I can't get to because the speedo needle will not pry up from the face of the gauge. It was to the point I thought it would break so I stopped.

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Speedometer still working well. Miles frozen on the odometer.
 
I had some decals made. The arc is not quite perfect but it works.
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I made enough of the decals that I will sell the rest to anyone who wants them since these aren't reproduced anywhere.
 
So I got a small bit done on the a/c system. Received my hose and beadlock fittings. Ran into an issue on the #10 high side hose from compressor to condenser. The tube size necks down in the hose from 5/8" to 1/2". They just have to make this complicated. So I will pick up a 5/8 hose barb and weld it on the stub. The fitting is steel.
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And looking at the fittings and hoses, there is a high side port off the hose from compressor to condenser. This is the new hose I bought for the 1999, but it has an r12 fitting. Probably why it was so cheap. So I need to buy a beadlock fitting with a r134 service port. And an r134 high side adapter.
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I chopped the end off of the high side line into the condenser and welded it to the barb. Attached hose, replaced dryer, new gaskets.
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And I found this in the gravel...the original trans shift link I couldn't find.
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I would recommend doing this, I have 2 of these old Dodge’s, and both of them had the heater boxes/plenums packed full of leaves, dirt, trash, etc.

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Nice! That's a great idea. Where did you get the removable covers?

I already have 30lbs of r134 which is why I went the route I went. I still need to switch out the expansion valve. I really hope these old parts seal. There are no o rings, only gaskets.
 
The odometer and trip odometer started working today lol.

I also got the A/C working on my cobbled system. Installed the new r134 expansion valve with gaskets, pulled vacuum, held vacuum, and filled with about 18oz of r134. Compressor kicked on and it was glorious. Factory fill is 44oz r12, so I need about 35oz r134.

I'll sniff for leaks tomorrow if the wind dies down.
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