1. MADCIMA

    MADCIMA Well-Known Member

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    Hi everyone, I'm curious to understand why these b bodies are literally eaten by rust.
    Since I have the chassis disassembled on the rotisserie, the question is this:
    can I make some improvements, at the bottom level or something else?
    Thanks in advance
     
  2. 1967coronet440

    1967coronet440 Well-Known Member

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    Mine was under coated, still had the factory paint underneath. You probaly have a car that day in the elements for some time. Plenty of improvements to be made, frame connectors and torque boxes to name a couple.
     
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    • aeon280

      aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      A big improvement is to treat the inside of the frame rails with POR15 or equivalent epoxy sealer before you close them off with new trunk and floor pans. Even cars that where undercoated from the factory have issues with rusting frame rails. The reason is that the interior side of the rails were raw steel and as the trunk and door seals fail water would get into the floors and trunk and then seep into the frame rails from the top. eventually over time the trapped water would corrode away the raw steel from the inside out. By treating the frame rails internally and then adding undercoat you have doubled your level of protection. That being said, unlike when our cars were purchased new, most of them do not see daily use these days so will already have one up on their post factory life.
       
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      • PurpleBeeper

        PurpleBeeper Well-Known Member

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        I agree with 1967coronet440 & aeon280. For frame connectors, the US Car Tool full length, weld-to-the-floor-pan, need some trimming (expensive labor for sure to install) seem to be the preferred frame connectors...BUT, any old bolt-on (weld them though) frame connectors will work. If you decide to add torque boxes (I suggest them), AND use frame connectors, have them put on at the same time. My bolt-ons (welded) interfered with the location of the toque boxes on the rear frame rail, but it was no big deal (grind a little metal) for the welder when the frame connectors and rear toque boxes were installed at the same time.

        And yes, coat the frame, inside it too. IF you can't get to some locations inside the frame rails, hose them down with WD-40 or other oil-based lubricant (after coating of course). Oil prevents rust too, but doesn't last as long as a real "coating"
         
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        • ckessel

          ckessel Well-Known Member

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          None of the old cars/trucks had any corrosion protection done at the factory to take care of any inner areas. Don't think that started happening until late 80-90's? Didn't happen on the euro trash either. You can get inner coatings from Eastwood and several others that have long straws to squirt stuff in to a decent amount of the inner structures.
           
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          • MADCIMA

            MADCIMA Well-Known Member

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            I saw that there are the brackets to join the frame rail, but the couple boxes I've never heard, what do you mean?
             
          • PP1RT

            PP1RT Well-Known Member

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            .

            Screenshot_20180111-083803.jpg
             
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            • MADCIMA

              MADCIMA Well-Known Member

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              now everything is clear !!! thanks
               
            • Sonny Black

              Sonny Black FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              road salt is the enemy (that harms or weakens the frames) of all car body's /including 'Vette frames....with that said...what happen's in the past is a thorn in our right butt cheek today...

              'just sayin':(
               
            • MADCIMA

              MADCIMA Well-Known Member

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              I'm sure mine will take little salt and little water
               
            • mopar73dge

              mopar73dge Well-Known Member

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              I have been spraying wd40 for 35 years in the doors, fenders and inside the boxed frame area with the holes also front fenders trunk everywhere any where there is a space I have drilled holes on the rockers and used a plastic cap afterward to close up the 1/2 inch hole I drilled , this has prevented any new rust from forming. all this was continued when I had new metal and body work done back in 1988. I have used the silicone wd40 also now. It seeps in the smallest cracks and seems.
               
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              • moper

                moper Well-Known Member

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                These cars were designed to last through the payments. Given the life they've usually had, you're lucky to have enough to restore....lol. Cut out the rust, replace with solid steel, garage it, and don't worry about it.
                 
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                • Sonny Black

                  Sonny Black FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  53,000 original miles.....not restored... you just can't leave them outside....nor just cover them...they need care
                  IMG_6018.JPG
                  IMG_5802.JPG
                  IMG_20160713_141610.jpg
                   
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                  • MADCIMA

                    MADCIMA Well-Known Member

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                    will have all the loving care he needs
                     
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                    • MADCIMA

                      MADCIMA Well-Known Member

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                      so, you mean, what were they, cars, uses, throws?
                       
                    • PP1RT

                      PP1RT Well-Known Member

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                      Planned obsolescence...
                       
                    • MADCIMA

                      MADCIMA Well-Known Member

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                      sad
                       
                    • MADCIMA

                      MADCIMA Well-Known Member

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                      since I have the pan of the floor dismantled, it is good to make a heavy coat?

                      diac.JPG
                       
                    • ckessel

                      ckessel Well-Known Member

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                      Hit the flanges to be welded with weld thru primer. SEM and some other companies make it. The other areas, POR15, Eastwoods coatings or others would be great. After you have the panels on, see if you can get the application straw in those areas and hose it down to protect what might have burned off from the welding.
                       
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