Frozen nut!!!

[Meep-Meep]

400 deg F is too hot for most o-rings. Heat will help loosen the loctite but it might be at the expense of the rubber right under it. If you didn't want to remove the valve then I wouldn't heat it past 200 deg F.

 

[daredevil]

try a 50/50 mix of acetone and trans fluid. best penetrant i have found.

 

[MarPar]

try a 50/50 mix of acetone and trans fluid. best penetrant i have found.

do you recommend any heat with that potion, Daredevil??

i'm considering taking the valve body out, putting it in a vice and taking it off that way.

i looked at the '68 b-body manual and there is a a spring and a lever under the valve body...seems pretty straightforward...



still haven't taken it out yet..i'm still considering my options. if i do f it up, i could always get a firm feel box...

thanks y'all!!!

 

[Meep-Meep]

Uhhhh, I'd keep the heat away from the acetone. And yes, that 50/50 sauce is good stuff! I have Kroil and that's good too.

Just pull the valve but make sure it goes back on exactly like it was.

By the way the title of your thread suggests you had the vent "wing" window open too long :rolling::rolling::rolling:

 

[MarPar]

Uhhhh, I'd keep the heat away from the acetone. And yes, that 50/50 sauce is good stuff! I have Kroil and that's good too.

Just pull the valve but make sure it goes back on exactly like it was.

By the way the title of your thread suggests you had the vent "wing" window open too long :rolling::rolling::rolling:

:rolling::rolling:

I'll try the secret sauce first (NO HEAT!! ) before i yank the valve body out..see how that goes!!!

Thanks Meep!!!

 

[q-ship]

MarPar, unless your replacement fitting is exactly like the one you will be removing, you may end up needing to adjust the steering bias anyway due to pressure differential, so take the valve body off and use a vice.

Adjustment is super easy so I don't understand your worry? In fact the factory adjustment can be improved on everytime (due to quick assembly line test/adjustments made when the steering box was manufactured).

If you're not familiar with the adjustment procedures, I'll list mine.

Use a thin film of grease on the gasket-mating surface so the valve body can slide.

Center the valve body unit by eye/feel as best as possible and just slightly tighten the bolts just enough so that it doesn't leak at idle, but can be tapped with a small hammer to move it.

Jack up the car so that the tires are off the ground, fill the P/S pump with fluid.

Start the car and let it idle - the wheels will probably go one direction upon start up.

Tap the valve body to move it slightly, center the steering wheel - let it go and see if the wheels move again. -- Repeat till they don't move too much or move slowly, and then cycle the steering wheel from stop to stop several times to bleed out the air in the system. Re-check the P/S pump fluid level.

Repeat the center wheels/tap the valve body till there is no movement from “wheels centered”.

At this point you are done and can tighten the valve body bolts, test once more to make sure, and test drive the car, but I like to go one step further.

Before I tighten the valve body bolts and lower the car, I shut off the engine and restart while watching the steering wheel. If it slightly moves one direction upon either shut off or restart, I will continue adjustments till starting and stopping the engine produce no steering wheel movement at all. ... This is overkill/perfectionist, but I am a sick man when it comes to things like that.

The whole process only takes about 10 minutes or so (an extra 10 if the perfectionist method is used), so I can't see why you don't just do it and get your car back in service?

 

[scotts74birds]

X2 on the Kroil!

 

[MarPar]

Q-ship, it's not that i WON'T do the adjustment procedure you listed, i'm new to the mechanical aspects of my car and don't want to screw anything up and cost myself any money. I'm very **** about my car and like to ask a lot of questions before i dive in to anything i don't know about.

Since you wrote it out in plain english for me, now i know how it is adjusted and i can do it!! :grin:

Thanks!!!

 

[Meep-Meep]

MarPar, unless your replacement fitting is exactly like the one you will be removing, you may end up needing to adjust the steering bias anyway due to pressure differential, so take the valve body off and use a vice.

Adjustment is super easy so I don't understand your worry? In fact the factory adjustment can be improved on everytime (due to quick assembly line test/adjustments made when the steering box was manufactured).

If you're not familiar with the adjustment procedures, I'll list mine.

Use a thin film of grease on the gasket-mating surface so the valve body can slide.

Center the valve body unit by eye/feel as best as possible and just slightly tighten the bolts just enough so that it doesn't leak at idle, but can be tapped with a small hammer to move it.

Jack up the car so that the tires are off the ground, fill the P/S pump with fluid.

Start the car and let it idle - the wheels will probably go one direction upon start up.

Tap the valve body to move it slightly, center the steering wheel - let it go and see if the wheels move again. -- Repeat till they don't move too much or move slowly, and then cycle the steering wheel from stop to stop several times to bleed out the air in the system. Re-check the P/S pump fluid level.

Repeat the center wheels/tap the valve body till there is no movement from “wheels centered”.

At this point you are done and can tighten the valve body bolts, test once more to make sure, and test drive the car, but I like to go one step further.

Before I tighten the valve body bolts and lower the car, I shut off the engine and restart while watching the steering wheel. If it slightly moves one direction upon either shut off or restart, I will continue adjustments till starting and stopping the engine produce no steering wheel movement at all. ... This is overkill/perfectionist, but I am a sick man when it comes to things like that.

The whole process only takes about 10 minutes or so (an extra 10 if the perfectionist method is used), so I can't see why you don't just do it and get your car back in service?

Very well written! Thanks for posting.

 

[emonster6x]

Yes, this helped greatly!

 

[dave5237]

i agree,just get it hot,not glowing:grin:then hit it with the impact gun:yes:

i agree its time for the heat!!!!!

 

[scotts74birds]

You revived a dead-thread, but I have learned something since then. I only have Mapp gas available. I heated up the area, and the bolt as best as the gas could, then hit the bolt with a spray bottle of water. The goal being to cool, and shrink the bolt faster than the surrounding metal. This has worked well for me, twice.

 

[Cazbah362]

I did get a new fitting for it already, 1/2-20 x 5/16" SAE Male flair IIRC... I could take the block out and take the fitting off as you say Joe, but i'm worried about messing up that control valve thing...

MarPar - Can I ask if you ever got this fitting off? I gust replaced mine when I pulled my engine, was a bear. Also, the fitting you are talking about. The flared side on my original was too large for any standard hose and I could not find a fitting anywhere. One of my buddy's owns a machine shop created a flared one a bit smaller to fit the standard power steering hoses with the threads to the gear box. I am not a thread diamter guy, so I apolgize up front. Posted a picture, you can see my original and one of the new ones my friend created. I have an extra if needed, let me know

 

[MarPar]

MarPar - Can I ask if you ever got this fitting off? I gust replaced mine when I pulled my engine, was a bear. Also, the fitting you are talking about. The flared side on my original was too large for any standard hose and I could not find a fitting anywhere. One of my buddy's owns a machine shop created a flared one a bit smaller to fit the standard power steering hoses with the threads to the gear box. I am not a thread diamter guy, so I apolgize up front. Posted a picture, you can see my original and one of the new ones my friend created. I have an extra if needed, let me know

Tell ya da truth, i can't remember how i got it off. lol

i bought the flared piece through Bouchillon Performance.
real nice crew over there...

http://bouchillonperformance.com/BPE9016F.asp

lemme go thru my mental MoPar rolodex, and see if i can remember how i did it

a few pics to jog the memory...

 

['69Net]

when all else fails.......get a bigger hammer.......:violent-smiley-100: