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Future Project

Mac The Bloody

Active Member
Local time
8:57 AM
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
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Location
Quesnel B.C. Canada
Future project is still just on paper but I now have the funds in hand to do what I want so I've been plotting and scheming. Created a file for notes on my computer.

Some things I know what I want well enough that you could say they fall under the category of "Written in stone".

Others are "Under consideration" or being investigated.

"Written in stone" we have the following.

Starting point.

1968 to 1970 B-body (further details about that in my intro thread)
Likely a 440 4 speed driver that I can enjoy while gathering parts etc.

Overall flavor of the build. 70's era street racer style is what I'm shooting for. Will look for suitable valve covers, gauges and other accessories to achieve the right look and feel.

Wheel & tires. Torq Thrust wheels and street legal drag radials of suitable dimensions. No 20 inch rims with rubber bands for tires. I think those nearly always look ridonkulous on a classic muscle car. Need to have some sidewall to look right.

Body and interior, as stock original looking as possible.

Engine. Aluminum Big Block, 4.5 bore X 4.15 stroke. (large enough @ 528 CID but with decent rev potential)

Induction. Tunnel ram, Holley double pumpers.

Cam. Solid roller and conical springs.

Suspension. Cal Tracks out back, coil overs in front. (more room for the headers that way)

Brakes. Modern four wheel disks, Wilwood or equivalent.

Under consideration.

Thermal barrier coatings, on pistons, chambers, inside exhaust ports.

Rockers, T&D or Harland Sharp with shaft relocation kit from B3 Racing.

Titanium valves, bushed lifters?

Trans. Looked into options and decided today it'll most likely be a Lenco ST1200.

Other. Chassis stiffening kit, possibly also a rollcage. Lightweight body parts.

New category. What I wish was available, but is not as far as I know.

Overdrive Torqueflight with a lockup converter that could withstand the abuse.

Stealth type heads with raised Max Wedge sized ports.

On that last item I will defer to what will perform as needed and NOT try to keep the factory look, if that's what it takes. If someone has any workable ideas on how to get around that issue I'm all ears. Target, 7000 RPM shifts on 528 CID.
 
Once you get the car you can then plan its future. However how the car you buy is built and what its options are will affect yours, mine, and anyone else's opinion. I assume you have 100k to 150k in funds available. Get the car.
 
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I have begun step one. Shopping for the car. Have already made enquiries on a couple prospects. Looking mostly at 68 Coronet RT or 68 Super Bee. Love the look of the tail end of those cars.

"how the car you buy is built and what its options are"... Factory built, a blank slate, to start. (big block 4 speed car preferred, so it's already set up for a stick, and equipped with Dana, but willing to convert an auto if needed) No AC and if it has power steering or brakes those will be swapped out so they are irrelevant. Not having the car yet does not really change anything for me. I believe in advance planning for any project, be it building a model railway or a garage or a car etc. I'll start with a nice driver that I know is well suited to what I want to do with it.

"I assume you have 100k to 150k in funds available". Yes.

I am already "plotting and scheming" the build since I know exactly where I want to go with it, and given the supply chain issues that exist at this time I think it would be a good idea to get a jump on things regarding rounding up parts as soon as I can get a garage built. Going to city hall this week to see about building permit etc. I have already picked up one of those portable metal sheds for the lawn care stuff so it wont be cluttering the garage. Have already talked with a contractor friend to get an idea of what I'm dealing with. Can't get started on it until the ground thaws out, but the planning phase has started. Winters are long and cold here.

The plan is to try to get the entire project completed by next summer. Barring any unforeseen nonsense-issues I should be able to meet that goal. Regardless of how things go, delays or not, the "bucket list car" is getting built.
 
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If you have 100-150k I would suggest to go buy one done. There’s probably plenty that fit the bill and then all you do is drive! And probably save a tonne of cash too
 
4mulas Your suggestion certainly would work for some guys but I just want to grab a nice one in A+ shape and build it my way. I've got to have it my way. I'm stubborn like that. If I did "buy one done" as you suggest, it would have to be as close as possible to my own vision and then I'd probably just end up doing my own modifications to it in the end anyways. Having said that I am thinking about starting with a restored car, so in that sense, one that's already done fits for me. A really nice survivor would also work.

To be honest I am also not interested in starting out with something that needs restoring. Too much work. I also don't want to have to undo someone else's poorly done mods. Plus something I can drive and enjoy while collecting parts for the modification program appeals to me. That's been part of the plan since I first contemplated doing this.

Had to decide between moving to a nicer house located in a nicer climate or doing the car. Can't afford to do both. The car won. I have enough to fix up my old shack a bit and build the car with some left over to live on until my pension kicks in plus enough left after that to supplement my pension nicely. I'm happy with that, even if I don't have enough to do all the things I'd like to do.
 
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You're building a car. Cool.

Appears that you only have 1 question, you want max wedge ports in a stock head.
Get stock max wedge heads.
 
It seems RemCharger has a sense of humor.

As far as my head dilemma goes I'm starting to think about how "back in the day" guys used to do a lot of hacking and welding etc to factory heads before we had all these cool aftermarket pieces. Doing that with a set of stealth heads might get me what I want. Not sure if anyone has tried that, but it's a bit beyond my skill level.

A set of stealth heads with large raised ports would sure be sweet. If anyone in the aftermarket is listening....
Some of the heads they are putting out these days are awesome but the ends of them look like they were just sliced off and are a dead give away that a coat of paint wont hide. Maybe a stick-on piece that sort of resembles the end of a factory cast head might fool a few brand-X guys. Pretty sure any Mopar guy who's owned a big block would spot the ruse pretty easily though.

Hmmmm... I'm still thinking like an old street racer.
 
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i was with you until you start talking that silliness about phony cover's it's either real or it's not people that are into impressing anybody well who are they really impressing?
 
Thanks, I doubt Mrs RemCharger would agree.

I'm just trying to figure out what's funny about using MW heads.

Original MW heads... Massive price tag for rare collectable parts. Plus they don't have near the flow capacity of modern aftermarket stuff. Don't seem well suited to my project at all. To be honest I really thought you were joking.
 
i was with you until you start talking that silliness about phony cover's it's either real or it's not people that are into impressing anybody well who are they really impressing?

I don't think it's silly to try to make something look more factory stock or more tame than it actually is. It's more about trying to camouflage a deadly weapon. Back when I street raced my big block Duster I tried to make it look like it was not as hot as it actually was. It's hard to get someone to race for cash if they don't think they have a chance. The idea certainly had nothing to do with trying to impress anyone.
 
aluminum block, tunnel ram,roll cage, 4 wheel disc and every thing else you could dream up and your worried someone is going say i'm scared your heads ain't stock?
 
Original MW heads... Massive price tag for rare collectable parts. Plus they don't have near the flow capacity of modern aftermarket stuff. Don't seem well suited to my project at all. To be honest I really thought you were joking.
That's ok.
The set I have here have gone 9.30s on a 440, and have bigger ports than the Hughes Monster Victor cncs sitting beside them.
But you do you.
 
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