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Golden Goddess heart surgery

I'd ask the advice of an engineer before proceeding, man. Those guys really make the task easier.






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I can't clearly see and you may already know but each time I install an UCA, I put the rear section adjusted all the way IN toward the engine and the front section all the way OUT towards the fender. This allows you a medium amount of negative camber and some positive caster.
The alignment guy can take it from there.
If you're adventurous, check this out:



Chris does a lot to help others with their cars. I like how he has skills but isn't cocky or condescending about it. For a small up front investment, you can align these cars at home yourself.
 
Chris is one of my favorite YouTubers! Low buck backyard average Joe helping others without being an asshole. I watched that video, very informative, idk if im adventurous enough though :lol:

I was talking to @5.7 hemi , and we were discussing marking where they are now and just putting them back that way. My camber shouldn’t change? But it should add a lot of caster, which is what these cars are lacking, and decent shocks:lol:
 
The aftermarket UCAs all seem to be built with increased caster in mind. You may know this but caster and camber are somewhat intertwined. It is hard to have positive camber and positive caster. You don't want positive camber anyway so that is sort of moot.
I run .75 negative camber, 5 degrees of positive caster and 1/8" toe IN. This was before I raised the car an inch this week. Even going up one inch affects the alignment a small amount but not enough to warrant a trip back to the shop. After seeing Chris' video, I'll go ahead and buy the gauges and try doing my own at home.
 
The improvements in straight line stability with increased caster is great.
 
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And it puts more positive camber on the inside tire and more negative on the outside giving you a better contact patch when you’re turning

Ummmm @5.7 hemi , our theory wasn’t correct, idk if the picture shows it, but we got too much positive camber:rofl:

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The best way I can describe it is that the end of the control arm needs to be IN at the rear and OUT at the front. Turning the cam bolts, you’ll see what I mean.
The head of the hex nut will be IN for the rear of the UCA and OUT on the front.
 
One way to visualize it is like the forks of a motorbike. That's alot of caster.
 
Were you trying to keep the cam bolts identical to each other?
 
I honestly have no idea what I’m doing. I took a paint marker and marked a spot, took it apart, put them back in their spot and had terrible camber. I took it back apart and tried to fix it and accomplished nothing

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