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Got some color in the engine bay

Magnificent. And the color. Just WOW!
Did you have any issues with clear coat runs?
I'm a big fan of the Iwata and Devilbiss spray guns.
 
Magnificent. And the color. Just WOW!
Did you have any issues with clear coat runs?
I'm a big fan of the Iwata and Devilbiss spray guns.
I had a couple runs. Not many.
I used a 15 dollar harbor freight gun for the engine compartment and trunk. Then I stepped up to the big money Eastwood concourse gun for 130 bucks for the rest. Lmao
 
A little shine removal today...

Screenshot_20201014-212515_Gallery.jpg
 
I wet sand and polish my doors, trunk lid and hood off the car.
So much easier, but I figured your were excited to see the finish product.
Now the rough part comes. Compound, and then machine glaze.
So much fun.
 
I wet sand and polish my doors, trunk lid and hood off the car.
So much easier, but I figured your were excited to see the finish product.
Now the rough part comes. Compound, and then machine glaze.
So much fun.
I really have no room to have finished parts laying around.
I Assembled the car first out of necessity.
 
I really have no room to have finished parts laying around.
I Assembled the car first out of necessity.
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I always sand/polish with the car fully assembled. Yours is going to look real good when it’s done.

Here’s a couple of motivation pics for you of my 64, I had already dry sanded with 1000 with the orbital and this was now with 1500 WET. In the pic I had pulled the pad off the orbital and was hand sanding when I took the shot.

CF210E45-6B82-4E0F-9350-04C13116B5FD.jpeg


AAE833A7-167B-4E65-8D8E-D0F442135589.jpeg
 
—-
I always sand/polish with the car fully assembled. Yours is going to look real good when it’s done.

Here’s a couple of motivation pics for you of my 64, I had already dry sanded with 1000 with the orbital and this was now with 1500 WET. In the pic I had pulled the pad off the orbital and was hand sanding when I took the shot.

View attachment 1014472

View attachment 1014473
Can't argue with your results.
I'm hand sanding all the way though. I started with 1000 and will go 2000 and finally 3000.
I wish I used the DA...
 
Can't argue with your results.
I'm hand sanding all the way though. I started with 1000 and will go 2000 and finally 3000.
I wish I used the DA...

You'll have more control wet sanding by hand over a DA if you haven't done it much. You can see what it takes to just remove the orange peel ect. and just sand off enough without burning through the clear. Use a piece of tape on the sharp edges to protect from scuffing through especially when you get the buffer out.

Don't buff the compound or the polish completely dry like I see so many do. Leave just a light film and remove it by hand with a nice cotton rag. You'll have less or no swirl marks this way.

My back hurts watching your progress! :)
 
You'll have more control wet sanding by hand over a DA if you haven't done it much. You can see what it takes to just remove the orange peel ect. and just sand off enough without burning through the clear. Use a piece of tape on the sharp edges to protect from scuffing through especially when you get the buffer out.

Don't buff the compound or the polish completely dry like I see so many do. Leave just a light film and remove it by hand with a nice cotton rag. You'll have less or no swirl marks this way.

My back hurts watching your progress! :)
I've been watching a bunch of videos about this whole process.
I was actually thinking what you said about polishing out till completely dry
Seems it would leave more swirl marks.
 
Who remembers or used to use the Blue Line block. I used these through the 90’s and up to about 2008. Stick on paper and the block was hard on one side and foam on the other, which was still quite firm.
Man this was labour intensive but they sure did a great job. And when you’d get a piece of crap from somewhere under the block you’d hear it scratching. Flush it out, look and often you’d see a fine scratch sure as ****. Orbital sure speeds things up but IMO the blue line blocks turned out a smoother surface.
85CC54FA-4F2B-4AAF-B6B1-8B1DDC0C92DB.jpeg
 
I've been watching a bunch of videos about this whole process.
I was actually thinking what you said about polishing out till completely dry
Seems it would leave more swirl marks.

Just passing on something I learned when doing a lot of clear coat when my son and I had a custom/art paint shop. We did so many high dollar vehicles and they had to be flawless. Doing a couple of black paint jobs you'll learn real quick.

It happened to be my first experience using a foam pad after always using the wool pad. I used a red one for the first cut. I really liked the Maquires Diamond Cut compound. Start off on a low rpm (Dewalt variable speed with the thumb wheel on top) and gradually turn it up to heat the surface just a bit but not letting it become completely dry. Once I got a good shine then I wiped everything clean including in the gaps ect. Might even wash it all off with soap and water but you have to have it completely dry before moving on to the final polishing. Taping off all of the gaps around the doors, fenders and panels can help with clean up also. Then remove the tape and do the edges by hand or slower with the machine. That compound gets everywhere and can be a chore to clean up.

Using florescent lighting inside shows up everything. Out in the sun you will miss all kinds of scratches from the sanding. That's when you know you've got it by not finding any sanding scratches under or through the shine. I would only wet sand to 2000 grit after I got familiar with this procedure.

I would then change over to the yellow pad and the Maquires Final Cut. That gets buffed with a lot higher rpm and it comes out like glass. Again leaving just a hint of film on the surface and remove/buff by hand.

The brand of clear coat has a big bearing on how easy this works out also. Cheap clear coat can be a bitch and I learned never to skimp on what brand we used. Anyway I really liked using the foam pads. I think they are more efficient and are so much cleaner without the lint that the wool leaves. You won't have the swirl marks with the foam pad either. If you do it's from dirt.

Everyone has their own way and that's ok. This was just my experience and I turned out some remarkable jobs with results that even surprised myself.
 
I'm just one and done. I'm not looking for perfection from a first timer in a garage/ driveway paint job. I WILL however see all my mistakes and it will probably drive me nuts.
That being said, I already bought wool pads for the first buff.
In your opinions, would a pad be more user friendly?
I'm not worried about time spent. It's only mine.
 
Who remembers or used to use the Blue Line block. I used these through the 90’s and up to about 2008. Stick on paper and the block was hard on one side and foam on the other, which was still quite firm.
Man this was labour intensive but they sure did a great job. And when you’d get a piece of crap from somewhere under the block you’d hear it scratching. Flush it out, look and often you’d see a fine scratch sure as ****. Orbital sure speeds things up but IMO the blue line blocks turned out a smoother surface.
View attachment 1014556
These are the soft blocks that I picked up.

20201016_073144.jpg
 
Yeah Bobtile.
You say one and done but once you pick up a spray gun, its like a disease.
I have a fetish for spray guns.

Are you saying, this is your 1st time ever spraying a car before? Because you did great.
 
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