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Harmonic balancer choices

Paul_G

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In the next few weeks I am starting to order parts for the 512. This build is going to be a street engine thats knocking on 600 HP.

I am getting the Mancini/Milodon oil pan power pack from them. They have an inexpensive Pro Race Products Pro Street balancer, not SFI certified, but only $98. Summit Racing has their house brand balancer that is SFI certified for $155. I have had good luck with Summit branded parts in the past. Is it worth the extra cash on a street engine that will see 6000 RPM once in a while?

http://www.manciniracing.com/chv838inhe2.html
pro-race-products-pro-street-harmonic-balancer-72.gif


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-c4279
SUM-C4279_ml.jpg
 
DO NOT RUN THAT.
While Mancini did stand behind their product that exact balancer still cost me and a customer thousands when the outer ring slipped after 200 miles, and ate the timing cover and thrust on the brand new stroker crank.
You can get a decent SFI approved that will work with all the factory pullies for $250-300. Don't cheap out on the balancer. I'd prefer to run a good-condition OEM one (neutral balance, obviously) than any of the cheap price point new replacements.
 
DO NOT RUN THAT.
While Mancini did stand behind their product that exact balancer still cost me and a customer thousands when the outer ring slipped after 200 miles, and ate the timing cover and thrust on the brand new stroker crank.
You can get a decent SFI approved that will work with all the factory pullies for $250-300. Don't cheap out on the balancer. I'd prefer to run a good-condition OEM one (neutral balance, obviously) than any of the cheap price point new replacements.
Good info
 
Lord, NO that's like running 10 year old tires!!
 
Lord, NO that's like running 10 year old tires!!
10 year old tires are still like new to me!! :lol: The tires on my trailer are 20 but one did shred last summer and meant to have them replaced but something came up and well, had to make a run.
 
Put on new ones 3 weeks ago. Mine were dated 2012. Not worth the chance.:steering:
 
Two things that at this point won’t make it into/onto any motor I build......

Chinese made rockers...... and dampers.

Really not a smart place to scrimp.
 
Sad part was that was probably the 8th one I'd used. Have not/will not use another one since that experience. After I went through it I called the most-recent example and asked about it. Customer had replaced the balancer after it spun but didn't tell me. It was years later but I repaid him for it.
 
My favorite Professional Products damper story is this.....

Guy builds a 511 low deck bracket motor to replace his 451.
New Indy heads, roller cam, blah blah blah.

He’s been running it in the car a little while(low tens), and is noticing he cant keep the hardware on the engine tight.
Pulley, brackets, carb, valve cover, intake, header bolts all just randomly loosening up.
It’s suggested cause of the problem is the damper.
Initially this is dismissed, but eventually after the problem persists, he decides to put the Australian made Summit damper from the 451 on the 511.
Problem solved....... no more loosening hardware.

The take away there is....... there’s more to the dampers job than just providing a place to bolt on the lower pulley.
 
.........You can get a decent SFI approved that will work with all the factory pullies for $250-300. Don't cheap out on the balancer. I'd prefer to run a good-condition OEM one (neutral balance, obviously) than any of the cheap price point new replacements.

Amen.

If the Aussie one that PRH is referencing is still available, that is the LEAST that I would do.
 
For a street car you most likely want to have the pulley in the stock location so that would be the first requirement. Most of the ATI dampers are thicker than stock so you'll have pulley issues unless you order the correct one. There are a lot of cheap dampers on the market and then there are some expensive ones. I use ATI on all of my race engines but my street car has a Fluidamper on it. If I was building a street engine today I'd probably use BHJ but I might use ATI also. The ATI dampers are the easiest to read. Some of the chrome dampers are next to impossible to read with a timing light and a lot of cheap dampers are only marked for the first 60 degrees.
 
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