Have to install electric fuel pump 68 gtx. WHERE DO I START ?

[dave5237]

Hello all. Its been a long time since i have been on. Well back at the car. PROBLEM: My gas dries up in the bowls cause I dont drive it enough and I think it boils off when shut off after running it for a while( allready tried spacer). I am going to put in a electric pump but the question is whats the easiest way? ( I dont want to run a return line to tank off regulator. I dont even want to run a regulator) Do I have to regulate it? Do I run the pump right up to the carb? ( I got a vapor line off the filter ) Just want to prime the bowls. Do I keep my mech. pump and run a small electric to do this? Help? Want to keep it looking stock as possible. Have lots more questions,but this is a good start. Thanks.

 

[bm02tj]

You could mount a pump close to tank with a low pressure setting or with regulator set low then let the factory pump do the rest

 

[ChargerM440]

I am currently using a Mr Gasket electric fuel pump to feed my 440. Here are the instructions: Click Here (.pdf) It was a quick and easy install. I completely bypassed my mechanical pump and installed a clear/glass fuel filter up near the carb where I can keep an eye on it. I don't regulate it since it only has a max of 7 psi. I haven't had any issues. In an ideal world, yes you should run a regulator when using an electric pump with a carb.

 

[dave5237]

Hello. So I thought about every idea ( that one to ). The question is do I share the common line because your not going to force through the mechanical pump and up to the carb without cranking the engine over ( remember I am trying to get gas up to the carb without cranking the engine over so long). So if I use the common line. I will have to t-in after the mechanical fuel pump and then to shut it off with a switch possibly after it starts and let the mech. pump take over. I read all about the oil pressure switch control set up to shut the engine off if the key is on ( dont want that either because its the hard start about getting gas up there). I am wondering if I can eliminate the mech. pump and run right up to the pump (Through a regulator or not) WITHOUT THE RETURN LINE TO THE TANK. Your input on any of these ideas. Thanks.

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Thanks. After my mech. pump now I have a filter and off of that filter is a nipple that I believe is a vapor line back to the fuel tank. My question is you are running out of the tank ( pump near tank ) running along rail ( regulator near engine bay ) then up to carb. through a filter ( this is where the T would be back to tank ( vapor line) of course out of filter and up into carb. Would this work. Is this right? Thanks.

 

[dave5237]

Thanks. Think I will try this set up. I could always add a regulator later. I really have no choice so I mine as well jump in head first.

 

[mopar 3 B]

This is what I have been tempted to try. Tee into the rubber hose at the tank and cheap electric pump back by the tank a new solid line beside the existing lines with another tee after the mechanical pump but before the filter. Will require a fused hot wire to the pump with a temporary switch. It only needs to prime the carb and shut off. Cheap pumps are noisy and low pressure no need for a regulator and you can just shut it off when it stops pumping.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

If you "T" an electric pump in like that I think the fuel pressure from the mechanical pump might back feed into the electric
fuel line with a loss to the carb,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[mopar 3 B]

A one way flow valve ( roll over valve) would prevent that. But thanks was not sure if the electric pumps held pressure shut off or not.

 

[ChargerM440]

I'd have to agree with HEMI-ITIS I don't think a "T" would be a good idea without the use of a check valve of some sort to keep pressure from bleeding off. Running a complete second fuel system seems a little excessive, is it because you don't want to run an electric full time?

 

[mopar 3 B]

Mechanical pump feeds it just fine. But as stated in the original post after it sits for awhile just to much time on the starter to get fuel back into the carb and priming with a bottle is a pain. I do not run alcohol base fuel in this vehicle so that is not the problem. I have run two fuel systems before but from different tanks. Racing fuel was ust to expensive for everyday driving and a small fuel cell worked great but that was before gas sniffers at the track and some of what we were using had a short expiration.

 

[GearAddict]

maybe stupid idea... but after I let mine sit for a while, I use a shot of starter fluid or 2 to help fill the bowls faster... even 1-2 seconds at 1000 RPMs is wayyy faster than trying to get the bowls to fill using the starter.

That said.. I'm looking into the electric pump route to cure vapor lock, considering the heat issues I between my headers and the hot Florida sun

 

[uwss]

Run an electric fuel pump with rubber isolators attached to frame at rear. You want to use a return line regulator. This will eliminate "dead heading". This will also keep the fuel cooler. I installed heat sleeves during the install ; just slip them over as you run the fuel lines. Easy and will help keep the fuel cooler.
Add a separate switch and fuse it.

 

[Icecobra]

Just eliminate the mechanical and block it off. Install electric pump at the rear and use one that is about 6 to 7 PSI and plumb that to the old fuel pump location and place a fuel filter there and then up to Carb... Your done..

 

[CaptainGTX]

This might sound strange, but first I'd make sure the starter is up to spec. After several years of struggling with slow starts and blaming it on fuel quality, I was ready to install an electric pump in my 69 GTX. It typically was taking 20 - 25 seconds of grinding before getting gas to the carb. Then the starter went out. I replaced it with a rebuilt stock unit and now the engine turns over much quicker. Starts immediately when still hot and within 5 - 10 seconds after sitting a month. I do, however, run an electric pump in my 53 Coronet hemi with its 6 v system to avoid vapor lock.

 

[dave5237]

This is kinda why I threw this out there on the site. There is a little thought here before I try something.. I questioned that backfeed from mech. pump thing. You may be right. You really dont know till someone has proof it will work. Would hate to try things because it takes time and may not work. Thanks.

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Thanks. My question is can I use my evaporator line as a return line? It allready goes back to the tank and dumps in ( its a tad smaller on the i.d.) This way I dont have to run a return line if I use that. Thanks?

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I guess I did not want to run a electric full time ( noisy ), but I am going to do that. Did not want to butcher up my old lines. Stupid me was thinking when I was pressing the gas I was squirting tons of gas in the carb ( I was wrong because the bowls were emptied )Then the boiling off when it sits( even had a carb spacer in). Thanks,

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Yeah. I went through that starter fluid thing with success and starts right up, but the boil off issue is still there. Spraying that stuff straight in the carb cant be good for the pistons.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Just eliminate the mechanical and block it off. Install electric pump at the rear and use one that is about 6 to 7 PSI and plumb that to the old fuel pump location and place a fuel filter there and then up to Carb... Your done..

Not quite that simple. That little pump just will not supply the volume required. The mechanical pump work fine once started not willing to replace it just to create more problems. No it is not a starter problem until it has cranked long enough to burn it up.
Why would I want to buy a $150 -$200 pump and a $100 regulator just to fill to carb before starting?

 

[dave5237]

It looks like everybody's situation is a little different. I drive my car 10 times a year and all the cranking to get the gas up for initial start-up is like dry starting it ( dry pistons from sitting). Plus when I drive it around for a while and shut it off the fuel boils off ( dry bowls) Even with a carb. spacer. I myself have no choice but to go electric. Thanks.

 

[GearAddict]

This is kinda why I threw this out there on the site. There is a little thought here before I try something.. I questioned that backfeed from mech. pump thing. You may be right. You really dont know till someone has proof it will work. Would hate to try things because it takes time and may not work. Thanks.

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Thanks. My question is can I use my evaporator line as a return line? It allready goes back to the tank and dumps in ( its a tad smaller on the i.d.) This way I dont have to run a return line if I use that. Thanks?

- - - Updated - - -

I guess I did not want to run a electric full time ( noisy ), but I am going to do that. Did not want to butcher up my old lines. Stupid me was thinking when I was pressing the gas I was squirting tons of gas in the carb ( I was wrong because the bowls were emptied )Then the boiling off when it sits( even had a carb spacer in). Thanks,

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Yeah. I went through that starter fluid thing with success and starts right up, but the boil off issue is still there. Spraying that stuff straight in the carb cant be good for the pistons.

As far as vapor line, I believe that is the return line on your system... It goes directly back to the tank and hooks to an inlet on the fuel sending unit? Should be the one .

 

[dave5237]

Thankyou. That was gonna be a follow up question since no one really told me that I can use that line back to the tank. I did not see why not( I thought it was a vapor line but know it does go all the way back to tank) ( why run a return line when I could use this line if needed back to tank.

 

[Roosevelt1940]

Thankyou. That was gonna be a follow up question since no one really told me that I can use that line back to the tank. I did not see why not( I thought it was a vapor line but know it does go all the way back to tank) ( why run a return line when I could use this line if needed back to tank.

Glad to find this thread, as I have a similar situation. Getting my 68 Sport Satellite back on the road after a few years of work, and installed a 440 to replace the small block. In its previous incarnation, I had an el cheapo electric fuel pump mounted in the engine compartment and ran it that way without incident for nearly 15 years....yeah, I know... it was one of those middle of the night emergency fixes that never got undone. Now that everything is fresh and new, it appears the mechanical pump can't keep the 440 fed (mildly warmed-over stock rebuild, nothing radical), so I wanted to install another electric pump. All the literature says to mount it back by the tank as close as possible and level with the lowest part of the tank to get the gravity feed, as the pump pushes rather than pulls. Okay, no good spot for it until you get to the frame just forward of the right rear wheel, or the gap above the front leaf spring hanger. Many say they mount it in the axle tunnel or off the shock mount (with a fabbed bracket), but that puts it above the tank, which is in conflict with the "official" instructions. Any advice, input, instructions, theories, photos or comments would be greatly appreciated!!!