Heads and Headers

[ChevySucksLOL]

Last summer I picked up a set of headers to replace the current ones on my '69 charger 383. No markings or anything to say which kind they were to direct replace, so I went with a set of hookers that did not clear the torsion bars/pitman arm. Ended up putting the old set back on for the time being. Looking for recommendations for a decent set of long tube headers that will be a direct fit for a stock set set up w/ power steering. Kind of budget minded, would prefer the 400-700 range, but will pay a little more if needed to get something that actually fits.

Additionally, I had my heads checked out because even with quality locking header bolts, half the bolts wouldn't tighten. The thread holes had already been machined before and the recommendation from the machine shop was to scrap the heads. Is it a better option to find a used set of heads and have them machined out or just get a basic aftermarket head? If aftermarket, any recs on a specific head?

 

[Lefty71]

Well, get your heads figured out first, cuz if you end up with angle plugs, then that's gonna need completely different headers. TTI will have headers for most applications in both flavors...

 

[RemCharger]

383 + hookers won't fit? That's a new one on me.
Are they the 2" super comps?
As for the bolt holes, are the bolts long enough. Have you tried studs

 

[ruffcut]

Lots of unknowns on this one, but if you're thinking aftermarket aluminum heads, 440 Sourse stealth heads are probably cheapest and mimic the iron heads for use of stock valve train and so forth. Then as others have said, you can choose the right headers or even stock exhaust manifolds. ruffcut

 

[ChevySucksLOL]

Yea they were the 2" hooker comps from Summit. Got on the horn with tech support and he said he doesn't understand why hooker makes so many universal comp headers, he gets calls all the time for fitment issues. Consensus was spend a little more on a less universal style and it would be more likely to fit without modification.

The bolts are long enough. A couple do tighten all the way, but like half on each side don't tighten up and leaks like a mother. A few of the bolt holes already have helicoils (installed by previous owner). I have not tried studs. If I were to go the aftermarket route I would be interested in anything as close to stock style as possible, don't want to have to start changing other stuff. If it makes too much of a difference, ill just source another used oem set.

 

[33 IMP]

I'd helicoil all the exhaust flange holes, long before junking runnable heads.
A Properly installed helicoil will be better than brand new cast iron threads.
The exhaust holes likely go into the water jacket, you will need a sealer on the bolts or studs.

 

[RemCharger]

I don't know why they got you into the super comps, but the competition 1 7/8's will go in like f*€k all.

 

[pnora]

Universal headers? Universal and fit do not fit in the same sentence.

 

[Cranky]

go in like f*€k all.

Wat do dat mean???

 

[RemCharger]

Wat do dat mean???

They slip in with very little resistance.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

My 2-cents.... I had a similar issue with some iron heads years ago. The machinist used a "super heli coil" (name?) which is about the diameter of a nickel. That black nickel has a threaded hole in it that fits the header bolts/studs.

 

[lewtot184]

use studs in the heads. i'm a tti person, know they're not cheap but fit good. i'd use a 1/3/4" tube with a 383.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Studs, bolts belong on a Chevy or aftermarket heads only.

 

[ruffcut]

Lots of unknowns on this one, but if you're thinking aftermarket aluminum heads, 440 Sourse stealth heads are probably cheapest and mimic the iron heads for use of stock valve train and so forth. Then as others have said, you can choose the right headers or even stock exhaust manifolds. ruffcut

I
ll say IT AGAIN!!!!

 

[Gus chiggins]

Universal fit is a code word to break out the BFH, and a whole slew of new colorful cuss words. Bolt on......

 

[451Mopar]

I think the 2" hooker headers were designed for the taller RB 440 engine blocks?
If the heads are in decent condition, I would repair the bolt holes with TimeSert thread inserts. They will seal the water better than heli-coils.
If the heads are worn out anyway, then new aftermarket heads are a good value if looking for performance upgrades, and taking a bunch of weight off the front of the car.

 

[ChevySucksLOL]

I will say the current 2" one on the car are next to impossible to get in and out with, so maybe the 1 7/8 is the way to go. I'm going to get a second opinion on the heads, see if the threads can be salvaged with the upgraded inserts. I don't plan on keeping the drivetrain for a whole lot longer, want to put something bigger with a manual in it, but for now I just want to be able to drive without the loudest exhaust leak. We'll see what this second shop says.

 

[Rebelrouser]

As mentioned, you have to know what heads you are using. Indy, Edelbrock, pro comp, and others all build heads with raised exhaust ports, and with torsion bars Mopar have a tighter space to fit headers. I have use heli-coils to repair exhaust bolts for many years they work great. Only issue is Mopar exhaust bolt go to water, so you need to put some sealer on the threads, or they will seep around the bolts. Teflon pipe dope or Hi-temp silicone both work fine. I learned this when I was young, water will seep around the bolts soften the header gaskets and they blow out when you fire it up. A lot of people don't like them but I usually build fender well headers for my Mopar's, you can get the plugs out and the starter off without big issues.

 

[WileERobby]

I think the 2" hooker headers were designed for the taller RB 440 engine blocks?
If the heads are in decent condition, I would repair the bolt holes with TimeSert thread inserts. They will seal the water better than heli-coils.
If the heads are worn out anyway, then new aftermarket heads are a good value if looking for performance upgrades, and taking a bunch of weight off the front of the car.

Yup. You don't need 2" primaries first of all, I've installed comps and super-comps on RB's without any problems. On a LB, you'll be better with 1 3/4 up to 1 7/8 primaries. And... get vehicle/engine specific, NOT "universal"

 

[#41]

You said that you are looking for a cheap solution and will soon be changing the drivetrain, so just do the minimum to get by for now: Hammer the headers until they clear everything. If you can, helicoil the heads and use lots of sealer on them. Spend all the dough you saved on your future build.