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Hearing loud banging under heavy acceleration...

I had wheel hop on my 1970 Charger when I first got it. It was originally a 318 car, but had a 440 in it. It was like a jackhammer. The first time it happened to me, it was so violent I was sure something broke. This was 20 years ago, I bought a set of the Mopar Performance 440/Hemi springs and it never happened again.
Yeah, 318 springs aren't going to control the torque of a 440 very well. My 440 RT Challenger ragged top banged the flood just like Myasylum's car but it didn't have a factory snubber and wasn't about to us and adjustable one as I do NOT like them. Anyways, once the factory snubber was in, there wasn't anymore problems hitting the floor anymore and no wheel hop.
I wouldn't say I have wheel hop. This just started maybe a month ago and gradually gotten worse. I think the springs have just gotten weaker with age, plus with the added torque it's gotten worse.
I'll start with pinion snubber, but I'm sure I'll need springs.
And what is stock height? I don't even know?
Btw... I have no ballast resistor. I've got you all beat.
How much power does your car have now? I'm hearing that you've done a ton of modifications to the car and wondering if the springs were what came in the car and if the engine is producing way more power than the original engine did. If that's the case, then yeah, upgrade the springs too but a factory snubber will cure the driveshaft banging problem.....
 
It's doesn't have a ton of HP. Probably 350HP 400 torque. More than the stock rated 255hp though, and a lot more than what these 50-year-old springs are use too. I have the Strange S60 with no snubber. I just ordered one - $80.00. Hopefully this will cure this. Although... the springs on ESPO aren't that outrageous of a price either. However, I probably could have bought a Porsche by now. :rolleyes:
 
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I had wheel hop on my 1970 Charger when I first got it. It was originally a 318 car, but had a 440 in it. It was like a jackhammer. The first time it happened to me, it was so violent I was sure something broke. This was 20 years ago, I bought a set of the Mopar Performance 440/Hemi springs and it never happened again.
I suspect there was a rear spring clamp missing cause I've beaten on plenty of Mopars with the light duty springs and a lot more engine than was original... Never had wheel hop.... Stock Nova? Holy Sh!!... Stock Mustang? Oh Yeah... Those both have the axle nearly centered on the spring.. Mopar from segment is only 20" so it's much more resistant to wrapping up...
 
I suspect there was a rear spring clamp missing cause I've beaten on plenty of Mopars with the light duty springs and a lot more engine than was original... Never had wheel hop.... Stock Nova? Holy Sh!!... Stock Mustang? Oh Yeah... Those both have the axle nearly centered on the spring.. Mopar from segment is only 20" so it's much more resistant to wrapping up...
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Is it a stick or auto? If a stick shift and you pound on it like that with a snubber it will spider web the floor above with hairline cracks after awhile…
 
its automatic. I just have to drive nice for a while. Still makes me nervous though. Snubber on the way!
 
its automatic. I just have to drive nice for a while. Still makes me nervous though. Snubber on the way!
By looking at the picture it looks like the u-joint end caps don't have retaining clips to hold the u-joint in the middle of the pinion yoke.
If it was me I would check the u-joint for movement after that floor banging.
 
Yea, I'm a little nervous if other damaged occurred too. I'll take a look at that, Thank You!

Re balance the drive shaft. IDK?
 
By looking at the picture it looks like the u-joint end caps don't have retaining clips to hold the u-joint in the middle of the pinion yoke.
If it was me I would check the u-joint for movement after that floor banging.
Looks like a D60 with U bolts... Those have tabs to retain the caps.. No clips required...
 
Yea, I'm a little nervous if other damaged occurred too. I'll take a look at that, Thank You!

Re balance the drive shaft. IDK?
Put a pinion snubber on it & go for a drive... All will be revealed...
 
I suspect there was a rear spring clamp missing cause I've beaten on plenty of Mopars with the light duty springs and a lot more engine than was original... Never had wheel hop.... Stock Nova? Holy Sh!!... Stock Mustang? Oh Yeah... Those both have the axle nearly centered on the spring.. Mopar from segment is only 20" so it's much more resistant to wrapping up.
I remember the first time I drove a new first gen Camaro small block with a stick. I took off easy and then nailed it and it broke loose and hopped like crazy! That was the first time I experienced wheel hop and thought the rear end was about to come out from underneath the thing....
 
I remember the first time I drove a new first gen Camaro small block with a stick. I took off easy and then nailed it and it broke loose and hopped like crazy! That was the first time I experienced wheel hop and thought the rear end was about to come out from underneath the thing....
Low HP 1st gen Camaro ran a single leaf spring... Those cars has the worst wheel hop I've ever experienced... Anything running 290HP or more got multi-leafs & didn't act nearly as bad...
 
What exactly would be revealed? What should I look for?
A good clue would be vibration.... If it's smooth chances are good nothings wrong... If there is a vibration there are plenty of things that could cause it so don't automatically assume it's connected... You have eyes, do you see any damage? Dents in the shaft? If it just rubbed a little paint no biggie, if it gouged the steel shaft you might wanna look closer..
 
I had wheel hop on my 1970 Charger when I first got it. It was originally a 318 car, but had a 440 in it. It was like a jackhammer. The first time it happened to me, it was so violent I was sure something broke. This was 20 years ago, I bought a set of the Mopar Performance 440/Hemi springs and it never happened again.
My point exactly.
With changes to powerplants, tires,
even road surface, will have an affect
on traction conditions. Start with the
obvious first. Then test under the
exact same conditions as to when the
problem occurred. If you don't follow
these parameters, you're gonna be
chasing your tail.
PS...your Ballast resistor being non
existent, could be the root of your
problem..../s
 
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