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Heater Box

GTX.JCW

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I finally got around to overhauling my heater box on the GTX (68) today. It came out with a minor struggle, but the tear down went smoothly. When I got to the heater core, I couldn't find the control valve?! Is one supposed to be there? Or is what I am seeing normal?

The hoses come off the water pump housing and go to the firewall, and connect to the heater core. The temp control operate a flapper door but not a water valve. By that design, I have heat all the time and I can only redirect where it is output.

The OFF / HEAT / DEFROST works as I expected. It moves a deflector to change the output of the blower from floor to front window.

Any help from the Pro's will be appreciated!


Jeff
 
Water valves where usually only used on A/C applications yours is correct for non A/C
 
Moparparts is right........No water control valves. As you mentioned, the variable heat control moves the door open for more heat. Slide to off, closes the door completely. Heat/Defrost control moves the door to switch in-between the two dash defrost ports or the floor heat ports.
 
Thank you both so much..

Now, on with the rebuild! Any quick way to get the light surface rust off the fan? I have wire brushed and painted the metal pieces. The fiberglass box is in decent shape, and I found the factory inspection tag on the top of the heater! Any one need one for an OE restoration?

Jeff

Thanks again...
 
No sweat Jeff!

3 minutes in a small booth blaster would cure it.....lol I'm guessing you don't have one just sitting in your back pocket though. Tough to get that really clean with all the small veins and tight areas. Wire wheel would chew it to pieces, sanding would only get a limited amount, a wire brush and a 3M Scotch pad would probably give you about the same results as sand paper, maybe a little better. An acid dip would kill the rust, but again i'm guessing that's not sitting on the top shelf. Rust converter and encapsulator or Rust bullet would convert and seal it up. That would be my 2 cents.... Good luck!

P.S. Don't do what I did recently and forget to install the little vent tube from the blower motor to the box. Little puppy likes to come out pretty easy.
 
Prop said:
3 minutes in a small booth blaster would cure it.....lol I'm guessing you don't have one just sitting in your back pocket though.

Yup...

Tough to get that really clean with all the small veins and tight areas. Wire wheel would chew it to pieces, sanding would only get a limited amount, a wire brush and a 3M Scotch pad would probably give you about the same results as sand paper, maybe a little better.

An acid dip would kill the rust, but again i'm guessing that's not sitting on the top shelf. Rust converter and encapsulator or Rust bullet would convert and seal it up. That would be my 2 cents.... Good luck!
Right again on the acid dip!

However, I might look around and see if one of the powder coat places would blast it for me for a reasonable fee....

P.S. Don't do what I did recently and forget to install the little vent tube from the blower motor to the box. Little puppy likes to come out pretty easy.[/QUOTE]

I haven't even removed it from the motor!


Thanks


Jeff
 
If you can get the fan off the motor, go buy a gallon of evapo-rust and soak it over night, then clean under water with a brush, dry immediately with compressed air to prevent flash rust and repaint. Evapo-rust is non-toxic and will not harm the metal, just eats rust! Great stuff, saved me countless hours getting stuff clean.
 
Well, I will have to get some and try it out..

I will be taking my heater box out to replace a broken heat door! I broke the darn thing while wire brushing it. The wire wheel caught an edge and jerked up and smacked the control arm right off the top of the door!!!!

Got a new (used) door and will take care of that problem shortly. While it is out, I will get the fan off ( had it off before) and clean it with the evapo-rust..

Thanks again..

Jeff
 
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