Heating The Garage

[Hemirunner]

Regarding radiant floor heat, if you were to throw open the doors on a cold day & the garage is now at 40-45 degrees, how long does it take to warm back up?

Mine takes just a minute or two. If I get any kind of fume buildup, I’ll prop the walk door open or open a couple of windows until it’s cleared out and it’s right back up to temp when they’re closed. When you’ve got a 28x44 slab that’s 65 degrees, it doesn’t take long to recover.

I’m still using an electric, on-demand water heater to heat it with. I usually leave it at 62 degrees and it’s not too bad on the electric bill. Most comfortable heat ever, bar none.

 

[747mopar]

On the radiant floor topic I'm curious to see how warm a floor gets in a garage that's heated 24/7? I just got my heater going last Sunday, maybe this weekend I'll check mine and check back in. As of right now it's extremely cozy in there with the thermostat set at 58 degrees but of coarse this time of year I'm wearing hoodies and Jean's too.

 

[bm02tj]

On the radiant floor topic I'm curious to see how warm a floor gets in a garage that's heated 24/7? I just got my heater going last Sunday, maybe this weekend I'll check mine and check back in. As of right now it's extremely cozy in there with the thermostat set at 58 degrees but of coarse this time of year I'm wearing hoodies and Jean's too.

You never want the surface to exceed 94F as it is not good for your body
also to protect your concrete you do not want the water going in to be over 130F
To be comfortable you are best to mix temp down to equal loss as related to outside temp
so water flows more often
if researching look at "outdoor reset curve"

 

[747mopar]

You never want the surface to exceed 94F as it is not good for your body
also to protect your concrete you do not want the water going in to be over 130F
To be comfortable you are best to mix temp down to equal loss as related to outside temp
so water flows more often
if researching look at "outdoor reset curve"

That's not what I'm talking about, I'm wondering how warm a floor gets in a garage that is heated 24/7 but not with radiant floor heat.

 

[Hemirunner]

That's not what I'm talking about, I'm wondering how warm a floor gets in a garage that is heated 24/7 but not with radiant floor heat.

I heated mine for the first two years using electric forced air. The concrete is insulated underneath with 2” foam but the floor never got very warm. The temp also increased from the floor to the ceiling like most conventional heating methods. Radiant floor heat doesn’t have this issue.

 

[747mopar]

O.K. I have to call on radiant floor being a must... absolute best option. I shot my floor today with my heat gun, 61 degrees in a garage that's heated 24/7 with forced air and a boiler and that's with the thermostat set at 65 degrees. If 61 degrees isn't comfy enough for a floor then you have issues. If I had it to do over again I absolutely would not put a radiant floor in, the added cost of foam, pex, zoning valves, etc$$$$$. I'm happier than a pig in **** working in my T shirt.

 

[747mopar]

Keep in mind I have a full 3' deep foundation with tons of #57 gravel fill so you guys with pole barns should still consider radiant floors.

 

[bm02tj]

O.K. I have to call on radiant floor being a must... absolute best option. I shot my floor today with my heat gun, 61 degrees in a garage that's heated 24/7 with forced air and a boiler and that's with the thermostat set at 65 degrees. If 61 degrees isn't comfy enough for a floor then you have issues. If I had it to do over again I absolutely would not put a radiant floor in, the added cost of foam, pex, zoning valves, etc$$$$$. I'm happier than a pig in **** working in my T shirt.

Check again in February and let us know as you still have heat from the summer time

 

[bm02tj]

Inslab heat is not for every one but is comfortable
more costly to install and if done correctly can save operating costs but pay back will take a long time

 

[Lefty71]

Inslab heat is not for every one but is comfortable
more costly to install and if done correctly can safe operating cost but pay back will take a long time

My two cents..... if done correctly.... absolutely take your time and do it right if you decide to spend the money. a broken Reznor forced air unit can easily be repaired or throw the whole thing out and get another. On the other hand losing your in slab heat because of failed zones can be an unholy nightmare with no easy remedies. Don't settle on a lazy plumber or an untrained concrete man, just saying.

 

[747mopar]

Check again in February and let us know as you still have heat from the summer time

Sure will but I doubt I'll see much change, it's burried 4' deep on 2 sides with tons and tons of #57 gravel around the inside of the footer and under the slab which helps tremendously (trapped air = insulation). I'm by no means trying to put down radiant floor just making a point for those who can't afford it or are to far along for it to be possible now. I've got a 24×24 addition that I'll use for painting that I'd like to add radiant heat to since it can heat without moving air but have concerns about the amount of time it will take to heat up since it won't be heated all of the time.

 

[bm02tj]

I tell people 3 to 6 hours but once at temp it recovers quickly after open shop door as all the objects in the area heat the air ie floor and tools

 

[Hemirunner]

Inslab heat is not for every one but is comfortable
more costly to install and if done correctly can safe operating cost but pay back will take a long time

How is it more costly? Maybe it adds to your concrete install costs, but overall, mine wasn’t any more expensive than a forced air install. You either pay in pex or you pay in ducting and other labor costs. In floor radiant also takes up much less space over other heating methods.

 

[bm02tj]

How is it more costly? Maybe it adds to your concrete install costs, but overall, mine wasn’t any more expensive than a forced air install. You either pay in pex or you pay in ducting and other labor costs. In floor radiant also takes up much less space over other heating methods.

If you compare to a unit heater it is more costly
If you compare to heating a house that you do not need AC then the costs about the same

 

[Don selleck]

I was going to put in floor heat in my barn back in 2003, couldn't afford it so I evenutally bought insulated doors got the floor poured, used 1" ridged foam on outside walls inbetween poles caulked inbetween seams to stop air flow put purlons on the inside to flush out with 2x 12 above sheeted walls with osb and drywall sealed those, creating a dead air space in the walls which is free insulation. my barn never gets below 42 degrees no matter how cold it is outside without any heat. why? ground heat from the earth that's why you bury water line min. 42" below here. I bought a propane wall heater for $260.00 I leave in on 1 and it rarely turns on and keeps it around 50. I can turn it on 3 and its 70 in a half hour. then in summer time when its 90 out its 70 in my barn. I rarely lay on my floor, when I do its on a creeper or something forgiving on my back. Insulation is the key and utilizing free geo thermal is the key to cheap in my opinion. if I ever move and build a new barn no in floor heat for me.

 

[Don selleck]

and R-38 in the attic,

 

[bm02tj]

that is why old structures had thick walls of stone for thermal mass warm in winter and cool in summer

 

[Don selleck]

my only heater

set on #2 (1-5 settings) for approx 3 hrs. while I was working out there. stays off most the time after initial heat up from 55 degrees when I went in there earlier. on setting 1

68 degrees

outside temperature

outside concrete temperature

concrete temperature in unheated insulated fab and metal working area.

heated concrete area 15 ft. from heater

cherry picker, metal must retain cold better

hellcat 20 ft. away

old water pump housing laying on floor 25 ft. away from heater.

 

[Don selleck]

under 350 yr. for propane when it had its own tank. using for 5 months year approx. now its tied to my main supply for my house. been heating for about ten years. cost of heater and gas line around 500.00 3500.00 total energy cost of propane. 4000.00 for ten years of heat no maintenance , no up keep. not 100% sealed some gaps around entry door, exhaust fans, and attic access. can work all day no co2 dizziness or headaches.

 

[6PKRTSE]

I have a forced air furnace in my garage that you can see in the top left corner that I keep at 50 degrees all winter long until I go out there & then I will bump it up to 65 degrees or so. Once working on something it doesn't take long to get too over heated to have to turn it back down awhile..