Hello FBBO and friends. 74 help

[74moparguy]

i want to remove my a/c from my 74 sebring 318. good ideal or not and if it is were can i get a delete kit for it.
thanks for the help

 

[callofthemopar]

Also interested in this. I have read on other forums that the obvious pulley or two need to be changed but not sure on the rest.

 

[Jonnyuma]

Crank, water pump, and single groove alternator pulley, plus the alternator bracket(s) are all available from Bouchillon Performance Engineering. They're real Mopar folks and great to work with. I called them one evening with a question and even though the guys were busy (it was after-hours) loading thier Duster onto the trailer to head off to the races, they stayed with me til my question was answered 100%. I spent a little under 200 bux for everything 4 or 5 yrs ago and still have and use the car as a daily driver (200 miles a week, every week, rain or shine) without a single problem from thier stuff...ever.
Also, I found it was easier, and not much more expensive, to just buy a new alternator w the single-groove pulley already installed, as find a shop with the correct pulley puller/presser on-er gizmo. But then, my alt was pretty old and kinda needed replacing anyway.
You can save a few bucks by not changing all the pulleys, but they'll be an eighth of an inch or so off and you'll just end up chucking belts all over the place. It's worth the cost in my opinion.

 

[kiwigtx]

x2 above

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/

 

[74moparguy]

ok thanks
:icon_bounce:

 

[YY1]

For a little more than $200, you might be able to do an r134 conversion, plus minor parts, and have a/c!

 

[74moparguy]

For a little more than $200, you might be able to do an r134 conversion, plus minor parts, and have a/c!

do you know where or the website. and thanks

 

[YY1]

Hook it up, and take it to a reputable shop.

It's a long way from the 90's when r12 was banned and you had to have certs to buy it and places were charging dang near $100 a can.

My bud charges $65 to pull vacuum, charge (plus 134 at, cost+10% per lb) with dye and UV check.

Orifice or expansion valve and dryer can be had for under $100 (WAY under in some cases).

 

[73runner]

Keep the a/c. I kept mine and even left it r12. At 30 to 35 dollars a can, it's only $20 a can more. With all the r12 replacements on the market these days the actual r12 costs have stabilized and maybe even dropped a bit.... Just my opinion.

I like my cars quick and my a/c cold down here in Florida.

Best of luck and let us know how you go....

 

[74moparguy]

Keep the a/c. I kept mine and even left it r12. At 30 to 35 dollars a can, it's only $20 a can more. With all the r12 replacements on the market these days the actual r12 costs have stabilized and maybe even dropped a bit.... Just my opinion.

I like my cars quick and my a/c cold down here in Florida.

Best of luck and let us know how you go....

thanks i will think about keeping it. how is the gas mileage with the a/c

 

[73runner]

Crappy..... 10 with a/c and 12 without.... City

14-16 mpg on highway with the a/c on and only a bit more without.

both of the above only possible if I keep my foot out of it.

Low mpg is probably due to my foot and 355 sure grip.

Our Mopars were never very good on gas!

 

[YY1]

Mine is a 318 still bone stock.

I average 14 in mixed driving using the a/c about 75% of the time.

I think there's more MPG to be had out of that motor, and I'm not done playing with it.

I've had 20 MPG average 318s in the past, albeit with slightly higher compression, and in slightly lighter cars, but with slightly lower rear gears.

- - - Updated - - -

What all is missing from your system?

Does the compressor clutch engage if you jump it to hot?

I still say for the cost and trouble of finding and buying all the correct parts to remove it, you could have working a/c for the same cost, unless a major compnent is shot or missing.

 

[74moparguy]

Mine is a 318 still bone stock.

I average 14 in mixed driving using the a/c about 75% of the time.

I think there's more MPG to be had out of that motor, and I'm not done playing with it.

I've had 20 MPG average 318s in the past, albeit with slightly higher compression, and in slightly lighter cars, but with slightly lower rear gears.

- - - Updated - - -

What all is missing from your system?

Does the compressor clutch engage if you jump it to hot?

I still say for the cost and trouble of finding and buying all the correct parts to remove it, you could have working a/c for the same cost, unless a major compnent is shot or missing.

my a/c has everything but the wiring under the hood isnt hooked you. im not sure there the wires go.(help). and to tell the truth ive never try it to see if it does work but i know for sure it will not blow cold air.

my car gets about 15-20 on the highway. and a little less in the city.

 

[bigaadams]

Crank, water pump, and single groove alternator pulley, plus the alternator bracket(s) are all available from Bouchillon Performance Engineering. They're real Mopar folks and great to work with.


Randy has always been good to help folks out.....that is his business by the way but still a true Mopar fan...used to stop by his shop now and then when I lived in SC...

 

[YY1]

When I have a chance I'll get a pic...IIRC just one or two wires to the compressor...might be laying near it, or obviously cut. I'd jump it hot and see, ground IIRC is the bolts.

 

[74moparguy]

ok thanks guys.... but i got it to work kind of.. when i plugged the compressor in it stopped my motor by holding the belts. all of my wires are there just unsure where they go.

 

[YY1]

If it stopped the motor, it might be locked up.

If the idle was really low, though, it could have been too much of a shock.

I'd be tempted to-

1. disconnect the belts, jump the clutch, and see if the comp actually turns or-

2. increase the idle speed to about 800-900 and try again.

IIRC the book says idle should be 600 for non a/c and 750 for a/c cars.

Remember this is before a high idle solenoid that kicks in with the a/c.

I got mine to idle at a happy medium of 650 (without the clutch engaged).
Not to high that all my gas goes down the drain at idle, but not to low to kill the engine in drive when the clutch kicks in (but it does drag it back down to about 550 RPM)

 

[74moparguy]

If it stopped the motor, it might be locked up.

If the idle was really low, though, it could have been too much of a shock.

I'd be tempted to-

1. disconnect the belts, jump the clutch, and see if the comp actually turns or-

2. increase the idle speed to about 800-900 and try again.

IIRC the book says idle should be 600 for non a/c and 750 for a/c cars.

Remember this is before a high idle solenoid that kicks in with the a/c.

I got mine to idle at a happy medium of 650 (without the clutch engaged).
Not to high that all my gas goes down the drain at idle, but not to low to kill the engine in drive when the clutch kicks in (but it does drag it back down to about 550 RPM)

ok ill try that thanks for the help