HELP!!!!!Repeat voltage regulator failure

[paladin06]

OK, I finished replacing damn near everything in my charging system. Now for the third time I took the car to have the charging system tested and I got my third voltage regulator failure. :angryfire:

Any ideas or shortcuts I can take? I can not believe I got 3 bad regulators. I m not using the cheap Auto Zone parts.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

What kind of system? Mechanical or Electronic ...The basic function of the charging system is controlled by the regulator.....It requires a Good Ground..Good ground connections between the battery, engine & body is a must..........

The first thing to check in any no charge condition is to make sure the battery negative cable, which should be bolted to the engine block or head, is in good condition, the ends are free of rust and corrosion, and that it is bolted tightly to the engine block/head.


The green field wire runs between one of the alternator fields, and the voltage regulator only.* This wire is used by the voltage regulator to control alternator field grounding.* Or more simply, this is the wire the VR uses to complete the alternator field circuit.


Now we are at the third item to check for a no-charge condition.* The voltage regulator provides a ground to the green field wire through it's case.* This means the bolts securing the voltage regulator to the firewall must be clean and tight.* Rust, corrosion, paint, loose bolts, etc can all cause a no charge or poor charge condition.


http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/256/page02.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IJKCOlTywg&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oitv2djx_Wg

 

[paladin06]

Can I run the green wire directly from the alternator to the VR? Presently it is routed through the junction box on the firewall.

 

[paladin06]

I'm sorry, the car still has the points ignition system. I'm going to do an electronic swap in a couple months.

 

[paladin06]

I've checked all mentioned. VR contact area clean, negative battery cable looks good and contact area to block looks good. I still have a low charge condition 12.97 volts. Additionally the voltmeter fluctuates when I put the turn signals or flashers on. It also drops when I turn on lights or the stereo.

Damn this is making me crazy.

HELP!!!!

 

[Pops1967GTX]

troubleshooting book....

To test for proper charging regulation, turn off all accessories and start the engine. Then check the voltage across the two small terminals at the alternator. You’re testing the field coil terminals for a voltage near 5 volts DC. These terminals are the two small ones below the large positive terminal. Then while still connected, turn on all accessories and the voltage should be near 10 volts.

If the voltages are both high (accessories off and on), the alternator may be bad. The regulator is at fault if both the charging voltage and the field coil voltage are both either high or low.

full field the alternator........When the regulator’s control function is bypassed, the alternator runs full-field.....Chrysler models. Turn of the engine. Locate the green wire connecting the alternator field terminal to the regulator; disconnect this wire from the alternator. Connect a jumper wire from the alternator field terminal to a good ground.
2. Once the regulator has been bypassed, repeat the load test.
3. If the full-field voltage exceeds the engine-off voltage by 1/2 volt or more, the regulator is defective and must be replaced.

 

[paladin06]

I know the alternator is good. I took it to the shop and had it checked.

Thanks again..

 

[paladin06]

full field the alternator........ with the green wire disconnected and a jumper in place, I get 13 to 14 volts at both field post. with the green wire in place I get negative voltage. WTF..

troubleshooting book....

To test for proper charging regulation, turn off all accessories and start the engine. Then check the voltage across the two small terminals at the alternator. You’re testing the field coil terminals for a voltage near 5 volts DC. These terminals are the two small ones below the large positive terminal. Then while still connected, turn on all accessories and the voltage should be near 10 volts.

If the voltages are both high (accessories off and on), the alternator may be bad. The regulator is at fault if both the charging voltage and the field coil voltage are both either high or low.

full field the alternator........When the regulator’s control function is bypassed, the alternator runs full-field.....Chrysler models. Turn of the engine. Locate the green wire connecting the alternator field terminal to the regulator; disconnect this wire from the alternator. Connect a jumper wire from the alternator field terminal to a good ground.
2. Once the regulator has been bypassed, repeat the load test.
3. If the full-field voltage exceeds the engine-off voltage by 1/2 volt or more, the regulator is defective and must be replaced.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

[video=youtube;ZzBbpTtVF-4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzBbpTtVF-4[/video]


Please do a fullfield test it just takes 5 minutes.....Disconnect the green field wire & hook a clip lead from the disconnected alternator terminal to ground. This will cause a "full field" or "full output" condition. Hook your meter across the battery, Start the engine,1500to2000rmp... & turn on all and any loads on , stereo, heater, lights, etc. do not let it go over 15 volts for a long time or you can cause damage....also do thisTesting for voltage drop ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RA1v3sNfHe0

 

[paladin06]

OK, test shows 1.26.... for the voltage drop.

- - - Updated - - -

full field shows 12.46 to 12.48. I pulled the alternator last night and had it tested. I showed 14.27 volts and passed all test.

 

[paladin06]

OK, I was pulling the connectors at the firewall and they look horrible. I noted the wire at position "P" is not connected on the female side. How do I pull the female connector from the firewall so I can repair the wire. Looks like someone remove the female side and connected the wire behind the firewall.

Please advise.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

If your results are a good charging alternator....Reconnect the wiring at the alternator. Pull the connector off the regulator. grounf the green wire at the regulator connector. If this not a charge, the problem is in the green wire from the alternator to the regulator.

If this does show a charge, the problem is either a bad regulator, bad connection at the regulator connector, or the blue feeding 12V from the key to the regulator....

 

[paladin06]

OK, found the other end. Man someone did a shitty job on this wiring. I'm going to make it right,.

 

[snakeoil24]

If your results are a good charging alternator....Reconnect the wiring at the alternator. Pull the connector off the regulator. grounf the green wire at the regulator connector. If this not a charge, the problem is in the green wire from the alternator to the regulator.

If this does show a charge, the problem is either a bad regulator, bad connection at the regulator connector, or the blue feeding 12V from the key to the regulator....

Pops you know how to explain this really well.

 

[paladin06]

Yes he does..

Pops you know how to explain this really well.

 

[MarPar]

Pops you know how to explain this really well.

that, and he has great taste in women... :upside down:

 

[paladin06]

Pull which connector of the regulator? Please be a bit more specific.

Thanks again..

If your results are a good charging alternator....Reconnect the wiring at the alternator. Pull the connector off the regulator. grounf the green wire at the regulator connector. If this not a charge, the problem is in the green wire from the alternator to the regulator.

If this does show a charge, the problem is either a bad regulator, bad connection at the regulator connector, or the blue feeding 12V from the key to the regulator....

 

[Pops1967GTX]

Question what kind of ballast resistor do you have ???? You are testing wire lead to alternator from regulator....Ground the green wire at the regulator (connector).... NO..... charge, the problem is in the green wire from the alternator to the regulator.


MYMOPAR GUIDE web page.....good information

 

[paladin06]

Running a two post MSD ballast resistor. It suppose to be .8 ohms but I tested it and it reads 1.3.

Another test I just did, indicated the VR is not properly grounded.

 

[paladin06]

OK, I've cleaned all ground areas at ballast and VR to bear metal still got 1.12 voltage drop. When Green wire at the regulator disconnected and grounded, I get no charge (12.46volts). Should I conclude the green wire alternator to the regulator is bad? If so that wire runs to the fire wall connector then to the VR. Can I run it direct?

Question what kind of ballast resistor do you have ???? You are testing wire lead to alternator from regulator....Ground the green wire at the regulator (connector).... NO..... charge, the problem is in the green wire from the alternator to the regulator.


MYMOPAR GUIDE web page.....good information

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