How do you remove brake line fittings that are 50 years old?

[Mike Szadaj]

If my 18v impact gave up the ghost, I would buy another one within 24 hrs. It is one of the most used tools in my tool box. Get a set of hex bits (mine can be used on security fasteners), get the hex to 1/4 and 3/8 socket adaptors, and get a set of hex shank drill bits and you will soon discover the ease this tool will bring to your work. The first time I saw one demonstrated the salesman had a 4x4x4 piece of hardwood. He had a drill/driver and said try to run in this screw. Stripped it right out and twisted my wrist. Then try it with this impact. It drove the screw right down, no stripped head and no wrist twisting. I was amazed.

 

[dan juhasz]

I've always found that the line is rusted in the nut, not so much the nut being frozen in the brass. Heat is best, propane is not hot enough, map gas is good, acetylene with a small pin point flame on the nut is best. Very gentle back and forth while applying your favorite rust buster (makes for lots of smoke) will usually do it. I have double flaring tools so I don't usually bother trying to save a hard line. There is a relatively new ( several years on the market ) bulk brake line product which I believe is zinc and copper, very easy to duplicate bends, double flares super easy, great stuff, never rusts either. Because it is a softer metal it is also more forgiving when joined to existing old brass blocks or hydraulic hoses, never leaks.

 

[olddog67]

Thanks for all the replies guys! With a little heat, fluid film and a breaker bar I got the fitting out, made & installed the new line and just gotta bleed the rear brakes and Im ready to roll again!

 

[YY1]

Forgot to mention I also put penetrating oil between the line and the nut, not just the threads.

 

[Dragon Slayer]

I have taken apart several sitting in cars on field. Cut tube at nut, put in soft vice, spray with penetrant of your choice and use 6 pt. The steel nut will comeout of the brass housing. If this is a 67 to early 68 look closely at the steel plug and pressure switch nut. I have found they corrode/dissolve and you may not have a complete nut. Even so, they come out pretty easy.
Inspect the seats to ensure they are not damaged from previous brake line changes and such. Then fully disassemble. If it has sat for a while, the internal pistons will be stuck. Not hard to get out, but won't be operational until you rebuild it.

Attached is a picture of the 69 block which uses a brass plug instead of steel.