I Finally Did It.....EFI

[That_Tall_Dude]

I’ve gotten a lot of suggestions on my intermittent off idle lean pop; all turned out to be bunk.

Am super interested if the EFI solves yours

Sounds like you’re all over this thing

Also very cool how quickly you’re making it happen

 

[threewood]

My fuel pump is out for delivery so I pulled the tank this morning. Easy task. All lines and hoses are in good shape. And I am surprised that the filler neck gasket is cracking after 2 years :/

Different project but I learned a new way to solder wires. Stab the two ends together and wrap with a strand of wire before soldering.

 

[Kern Dog]

Mileage with efi marginal increase. Don’t get it to save fuel. Its about drivability mostly hot restarts and actually having the car run in Reno elevation at 100 degrees.

That is what is lost on me. I drive my carbureted car here in the Sacramento area in temperatures up to 110 and the car runs fine. Maybe the air is thinner in Reno ?

 

[threewood]

That is what is lost on me. I drive my carbureted car here in the Sacramento area in temperatures up to 110 and the car runs fine. Maybe the air is thinner in Reno ?

Dennis said he drives his car at different elevations where a/f needs of a carb can change so it makes sense for him. And efi being a closed system makes fuel evaporation and boil a non issue. The ethanol in today's gas favors fuel injection.

I like my carb but felt it was time to see what I was missing. Besides the fuel pump issue, drivability has been great. Cold starts are perfect. Tunability across the board is very easy.

 

[Wietse]

I like the tip of wrapping a strand of wire around the soldering area, normally it becomes like a hair ball when stabbing them together.

 

[Don Frelier]

Just don't show that to my wife. She'd insist that the wire be a Celtic knot or something.
Artists...

 

[Wietse]

Just don't show that to my wife. She'd insist that the wire be a Celtic knot or something.
Artists...

 

[threewood]

And I believe it is fixed. New 450lph pump in and is much quieter than the 255lph. Took some back and forth as I kept having to go back and fix stupid mistakes (such as too small shrink wrap).

Took it out, added 10 gallons of gas and played around. WOT looks much better. Duty cycle never went above 68%, AFR stayed in a good range. My transmission didn't want to shift out of manual 2nd to drive but that is for a different day. That is tps spiking down.

I also added a 6an filter and dropped the Wix. I also got a 1/8" npt AN fitting for a fuel pressure gauge but the big end is wrong and won't screw in.

 

[Don Frelier]

I think you meant to type 450l/hr for the new pump. Correct?

 

[threewood]

I think you meant to type 450l/hr for the new pump. Correct?

Yes. Fixed in post.

 

[andyf]

The fuzzy AFR trace often indicates that you have one bad cylinder. You can expand the time axis and see what the frequency of the pulse is and that will tell you more. Just use your mouse button to expand the time axis and drill down into a specific period of time. If it is one cylinder then it is probably just a poorly gapped plug or a bad plug wire or something like that. You might be able to find it by pulling all eight plugs and looking at them.

Did you fuel consumption number change after swapping pumps? It looks to me like it is lower now with the bigger pump. If so then that means the small pump wasn't keeping up and the Sniper was pumping air or froth which is why the engine was running lean on the top end. Now it is pumping fuel and everything is happy. At least that is what I see from the screen shots but I can't tell for sure without looking at the full data logs myself.

Anyway congrats on your success. Looks like you're coming up the learning curve pretty quickly.

 

[andyf]

I went back and looked at some of your earlier screen shots and I can see that the new fuel pump solved a bunch of problems. You are using a lot less fuel at WOT and the Closed Loop comp isn't up against the rail anymore. You are now using about 250 lbs/hour which is correct for a 500 hp engine. So that is now a good number.

The numbers you had before were not real. The Sniper was not injecting 375 lbs/hour of fuel, what it was doing was running the injectors flat out trying to inject fuel to keep the engine running but it didn't have enough fuel pressure to squirt that much fuel into the engine. So it was running lean. It thought it was injecting a lot of fuel because the injectors were running full tilt but with low fuel pressure the injectors were not actually squirting much fuel.

Your CL comp and Learn numbers are both normal now and your AFR is matching the target AFR. It should be running pretty good. You just need to drive it some more and keep an eye on the learn table as well as the spark plugs. Allow the learn table to fill out a bit and then transfer learn to base and start over. After you do that a few times the Sniper should be really well tuned. Once it is tuned you need to make a copy of the tune and keep it in safe place. You can also make a copy of the tune and disable closed loop. Keep that copy in the glove box in a second SD card. Label the tune "limp home". That way if you ever burn out a wide band sensor while you are on a trip you can pop the limp home tune into the handheld, upload it to the ECU, and limp home in open loop.

 

[threewood]

I went back and looked at some of your earlier screen shots....

Thanks so much for the help! Could I attach the data log here for you to look at in its entirety? How long does it usually take the learn table to fill up with data?

 

[andyf]

I'll take a look at the data log if you can figure out how to attach it.

 

[threewood]

Give me a few minutes, my wife is on the computer.

This is the new filter setup. I've never dealt with AN fittings before. There are a lot of options but they do work well.

 

[threewood]

@andyf Lets try this. The data logs are in dropbox. Let me know if these don't work.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/73voont6t7uhdpk/12-22-20 new fuel pump.dl?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ppkr1stzevsn8wf/12-18-20 drive.dl?dl=0

 

[andyf]

Looks pretty good. You need to turn the idle screw in a bit, your throttle blades aren't open enough at idle.

You have some sort of electrical noise in the system, not sure where that is coming from. Looks like ripple on the signals. Do you have a good EFI alternator on the engine? An EFI alternator is something that came OEM on a factory EFI car. So a Denso alternator or a late model GM alternator or Ford 3G. Something that was designed to work with EFI.

Post your config file and I'll take a look at it too. Make sure you download the most current file so I can look at the learn table.

 

[Billccm]

In my experience with troubleshooting noise on mining vehicles it seems to be induced by other sources rather than just the DC supply. I have spoke with many people who have added EFI to their cars and had to chase down noise issues that were finally alleviated with careful routing of the lines and keeping the lead lengths as short as possible.

I just do not understand why these aftermarket EFI companies do not implement some sort of noise shielding in their kits. Even just going to twisted pair would reduce susceptibility to noise.

If Mark wants to loan me his GTX for a few months I could use my oscilloscope and chase down all of the noise sources. No charge! (of course, you may never see the car again)

 

[threewood]

Looks pretty good. You need to turn the idle screw in a bit, your throttle blades aren't open enough at idle.

You have some sort of electrical noise in the system, not sure where that is coming from. Looks like ripple on the signals. Do you have a good EFI alternator on the engine? An EFI alternator is something that came OEM on a factory EFI car. So a Denso alternator or a late model GM alternator or Ford 3G. Something that was designed to work with EFI.

Post your config file and I'll take a look at it too. Make sure you download the most current file so I can look at the learn table.

Thank you again!

I'll adjust idle screw today.

It is a factory one wire alt. If you see the volts at idle you can see it chugging along at 12.3 ish which has always been the case.

Are any of those Alternators a direct fit with the Mopar round alternator? (Besides having to ground the second wire on the case and better wire).

I'll post a config file...that is the one it is running on currently. And I save to the SD card and then upload to dropbox?

 

[andyf]

I use a Denso 60 amp alternator in my EFI car. It works great and bolts right on.