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I got my new Denso alternator installed today. Bolting it up was a matter of adding some spacers between the brackets and alternator. Original brackets were un modified. I have a 3 prong plug for the alternator lost in the usps abyss so I plugged the wires in directly. The blue sense wire goes right to the battery. The ignition + goes to the old green wire. And I gutted my VR. I welded the two terminal ends together and epoxied them onto the non conductive pad and zip tied them for extra insurance. Fired it up and will hold 14.3v cold, in P or D. Headlights on, 14.3v. Seems to work just fine. It's nice to not have the headlights dim at idle.
Nice work man!
I'll get it out today and see if that cleared up some of the fuzziness on the data logging.
I didn't get any data logs on it but I swear it drives much better. The alternator mod is holding 14.3v so the car idles much better and feels smoother from a stop. More consistent. The turn signal switch works very well too.
Totally Modern.... Some would complaint "It lacks the personality of an old car...." I'm not part of that group...
That's great to hear! What rpm are you running at idle? Is your alternator holding voltage at that speed? Thank you
880 rpm The voltage at 880 rpm with my old alternator was around 12.4v. New alternator hols 14.3v at 880 rpm.
Thank you, that good to know. Looking forward to learn more.
I may do this on the beater truck! Especially that it fits stock brackets!
The belt even works although a bit shorter would work better. A little bit more adjustment.
Got a part # for that Denso?
From AndyF's AR Engineering website.... 60 Amp is the Denso 210-0106 90 Amp is the Denso 210-0177
I know I'm late on this, but that may be a bulkhead fitting (straight this). And although l buy a lot of stuff from summit, I would never buy their house brand for anything critical.
That was my thought initially. It just wouldn't seal no matter the amount of sealant nor how tight it was. The brass fitting went right back in, same sealant, and has been leak free. Definitely an issue with the Summit fitting. I'm leaving the efi hose in there until I HAVE to pull the tank. I'm just glad to be past it.
Are you still running a PCV valve with the EFI? If so, you should look into removing the valve and replacing it with a fixed orifice. Basically just gut the PCV and fill it with epoxy and then drill a small hole thru it. Or use a GM fixed orifice PCV valve. EFI doesn't play well with a PCV valve so it will cause you problems eventually if you don't get rid of it.
Can you give diameter of the hole @andyf? Thanks
New data log with a WOT pull from 2800 to 5800 rpm. And Dropbox to see the full data... https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bsdl195j2i0r2ke/AADOc7eHdlOfxpO8MNZ4d8R2a?dl=0
SWEET!!!! So if I'm reading that right you're only at 70% of max the system is capable of? Room for more HP!