Wow. She's quite the vindictive one!!
Identify axle bearings please - do I need end play adjustment on these?
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OzCharger69
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That's nothing. She grabbed all the Valentine/Birthday/Christmas cards I gave her over the years and hid them all over the house for my new partner to find. She emptied all the water tanks, that's 50,000 gallons (we are on tank water only). She said my dog disappeared last week and she remains missing 6 days later. Countless damage to the property.
Good riddance
Good riddance
ckessel
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Lefty71
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IMO....."GREEN style" bearings are sealed ball bearing (single row ball bearing), where as the OEM bearing design, used a Timken Tapered bearing using a cup (bearing race) and cone (roller assembly) and an external seal and is far more capable of absorbing both radial and axial loads. ......now the green bearings proponents praise their virtue and now the verbal wars begin.........
BOB RENTON
OzCharger69
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working on getting on my nervesAw, cool. What's she workin on??
How's she doing with that.... Bout got here??
Women can drive a man crazy, but as Sam Kinison use to say... What are ya gonna do? Give sheep the vote?
Splangj
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Setting the end play on tapered bearings is as easy as gapping points. I’ve never measured the play, just feel for a hair of movement.
OzCharger69
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I am a bit lost here. The manual says to tighten the adjusting nut until there's zero play which I did. You then back it off 4 notches to achieve 0.08"-0.18" play. I don't have a dial indicator so I just used a measuring ruler by the side to see how much play I have. I found I had to back off the ring almost one full turn or more to achieve that amount of play, which felt a bit too much to me.
What are your thoughts?
What are your thoughts?
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One does not measure decimal clearance numbers with a ruler.....TAPERED bearings require a small amount of clearance, or axial (in-out) movement. The actual end play is an aquired "feel", but a small amount of movement is necessary to allow for thermal expansion of the axles and housing in operation. IMO....just follow the FSM procedures. The discrepancy MAY be attributed to not having the cone assembly pressed on the axle enough or the cup not installed far enough.......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
OzCharger69
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Thanks for your advice. I am using the old cone bearings that were already there. They have 2000 miles on them. I took for a spin yesterday and everything felt ok. I will redo the procedure and take it from there.
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Just an FYI....NEVER mix match bearing races (cups) and roller assemblies (cones) as they are matched during manufacturing. Although possible, it's NOT recommended by TIMKEN or the bearing manufacturer....
BOB RENTON
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Timken sells cups and cones by their own part numbers, in separate boxes......
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I'm aware.....but they can have/may have slightly different manufacturing tolerances, depending on applications, loads, speeds, lubrication requirements. Replacement bearings are best replaced as a pair assembly, both the cup and cone from the same box. Its not a matter of economics but more common sense......learned many years ago from an old millwright....but it depends on one's own philosophy.......
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Here is the link for free service manual downloads.
mymopar.com
Section 3
Then just print the pages you want to use and you will never have a dirty/greasy manual..
Make sure to clean, inspect and repack the rear bearings.
They are not lubricated by the diff fluid.
And pay close attention to the inner seals as well.
Service Manuals – MyMopar
mymopar.com
Then just print the pages you want to use and you will never have a dirty/greasy manual..
Make sure to clean, inspect and repack the rear bearings.
They are not lubricated by the diff fluid.
And pay close attention to the inner seals as well.
Last edited:
You have the spec wrong, whether it was wrong in the manual or something else happened.... You need another 0 after the decimal... .008 to .012....
Initially I posted this without bold print but figured it's kinda important & wanted to make sure it got read..
OzCharger69
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Bloody hell!, thanks mate! What a silly mistake I've done, thanks for pointing that out. I'll get that fixed today
We've all done it... When you mentioned using a ruler my first thought that's a tiny ruler.. Then I caught your decimal point issue... I work with them every day so I know how easy it is to get it wrong...
OzCharger69
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So I bought the dial indicator. When I set it blindly at 4 notches out from tight I had 0.01,7" play. I tightened it by a notch and I got a more desirable 0.012" play which is middle of the range.
Thanks all for the advice.
Thanks all for the advice.
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