Idler Arm Question

[firstgencharger]

I'm rebuilding the front suspension on my 67 Charger. This is where I am stumped at the moment. I have the PST rebuild kit with new idler and pitman arms. The correct end of the idler arm is in the bracket, but I can't seem to get it to tighten.

It is in as (idler arm, felt washer, k-member bracket, steel washer then nut). When I try to tighten the nut, the stud just keeps spinning in the bracket end. I can't get any torque value, and the stud is very loose in the bracket. I've placed the old arm back in and can get it to torque down.

I measured the OD of the idler arm stud at about 1.54 and the center link hole where the stud enters at the same dimension.

What might I be doing wrong?

 

[69Bee]

What stud, the bracket end is a bolt.

 

[firstgencharger]

OK, so the bolt end.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Use a wrench on the top to hold the bolt, then a wrench on the bottom to tighten the nut.

 

[440roadrunner]

What stud, the bracket end is a bolt.

Use a wrench on the top to hold the bolt, then a wrench on the bottom to tighten the nut.

Uh, guys................this is a "sixty seven" It is a tapered stud on both ends.............

I don't know. Is the hole "wallered out"? You have an impact wrench? Clean the hole and the stud really good, get them clean and dry. Try to apply some pressure or if possible, even tap the link/ idler in place with a mallet to 'stick' the stud.

 

[Cranky]

Is that what you took off of it. Been awhile but iirc, there should be a thru bolt to mount the idler to the K frame.....

 

[5.7 hemi]

Whoops! My bad!!! I'm sure that your k frame is not original to your car as that style of idler wasn't used after 65. The 66 and up went to a thru bolt design, double shear on the idler.

 

[firstgencharger]

I measured the taper length of bracket side of the idler arm, and appears to poke through the bottom of the bracket.
When I tighten the washer and nut, the washer bottoms out on the taper and the stud seems to spin.

I tried a larger washer on the bottom end of the idler arm at the bracket and it comes close.

Is there supposed to be a fiber washer on the top of the bracket and one on the bottom side of the bracket; Or, does the center link get a fiber washer also?

- - - Updated - - -

The taper portion of the stud is longer than my original (measured of course) and protrudes through the bracket on the k-frame. I tried using the felt washer and the kit washer but the washer still bottoms out on the stud and appears to turn the stud at this point.

I used a larger ID washer to take up the slack, but that shouldn't be needed to remedy a correct suspension kit. The washer helps but ***

 

[440roadrunner]

Does the old one tighten up OK? If so, you have the wrong idler, or it's made wrong, or you are installing it backwards end for end? Otherwise, the hole in the K is worn out.

 

[firstgencharger]

The old one does tighten up but the taper is not as long as the new idler arm. I am going to have to call PST to see if they may have an answer.

 

[PST]

The style that you have is the Moog style ( meaning a stud on either end ) In some cases Moog supplied a bracket that bolted into the factory K member to take the place the other style of idler arm ( hole on one end and stud on the other). I do believe that our customer service manage is working with you. Its just that you to are playing phone tag at the moment.

Thanks
James

 

[dpstark2]

I don't think bolt style ones were used until '68. I had to research this as I had the same problem on my '67 Charger, which has the taper-style, single shear mount. Eventually I got mine to seat. Sounds like your taper isn't a good match, so you may need to try another part or manufacturer. Otherwise, I think the only option is re-ream that mount with the correct taper, but I wouldn't do that unless all else fails. Make sure everything is really clean so you get good metal-to-metal contact.

 

[mobileparts]

Your biggest mistake, since you asked, is that you didn't go with MOOG...... MOOG is the best front end on the planet, simply....
The K779 Moog is correct from 1962 - 1967; the K7041 is correct from 1968 - 1974......
I have some New Fresh stock K779 Moog and some N.O.S. K779 Moog -- and they are slightly different in design, actually!!!
Obviously, a modification, designed to be more like original -- or better functionally......