Make one of these with your grinder, works like a charm.
View attachment 658063
That looks like a crescent wrench to work on the fuel fitting that goes into the float bowl, right?
Right now I have been using an adjustable crescent wrench.
What size should I start with to get what you have in the picture?
Also, once I got the needle and seat fixed, I was very disappointed to find how wrong I was about my "no fuel leaks" prediction.
The factory washer that goes between the fuel fitting and fuel/float bowl surface is paper thin, and steel. The ones that come with the Promax fuel lines are about 2-3 times thicker, a little thinner that a quarter, and 2 leaked badly, one just a bit.
I had 2 of my 3 original steel washers and swapped them in place of the aluminum ones Promax provided. Boom! No leaks.
I had to get the 3rd one from Ace Hardware, it is a paper type material, but it works.
Promax is sending me 3 nylon washers that I will try one of them on the front carb in place of the "paper" one.
Last steps are readjust the float level in the rear carb, adjust the throttle plate rod that connects the outboard carbs, and then check one last time for leaks.
I also have a T vacuum fitting for my FOB distributor, so the line that runs to the choke diaphragm can be split to the distributor too. Don at FOB says the distributor MUST get its vacuum signal from MANIFOLD vacuum. The Promax center carb metering block eliminates the vacuum tube for metered vacuum, which I was making do with working the choke diaphragm. Seems like my vacuum drops off when I split it.