Installing subframe connectors with car on a lift

[440beep]

So I saw in last month's Mopar Muscle where they installed subframe connectors on an A-body while the car was on a lift supported by the frame. One of the picture captions stated that the car body was aligned with shims under the frame lifting points until the doors could be opened and closed without binding which meant the body was straight at that point.

Anybody else use this methodology? I need to get the Mancini subframe connectors welded into my Super Bee and want to use this method. I guess its just trial and error in getting the shims/flat washers in correctly between the car frame and lift until the doors close properly. So if the doors don't shut properly, start shimming the rear lifting point first?

 

[Seventy]

I would use a drive on lift, I seen (or heard rather) about guys using 4 tranny jacks and blocking the car up, but at that point I think it would be easier to what we used to do long ago, that was drive the car on blocks and lay on our back... Its only metal, so if you do it and its wrong, a grinding wheel and some more welding wire will fix it...

 

[zyzzyx]

I used the U.S. CarTool connectors, and followed their directions. I'm not an "Expert" and am not about to totally ruin my ride! Look up my links to see the pics. Good luck!

 

[mosquito13]

any muffler joint with a ramp lift can weld em in and they are skilled at welding from underneath. do you fitting / grinding before you get there or bring a twelve pack.

 

[5.7 hemi]

You can do the same with jack stands. Just use shims.....level on the rockers and a level on the cowl and shim accordingly.

 

[Mogre]

What he said^^^^^^

 

[Cranky]

Never had a car that the doors would bind shut just because it was up on a lift. IMO, if that happens, something else is wrong.

 

[conv67bdere]

You can do the same with jack stands. Just use shims.....level on the rockers and a level on the cowl and shim accordingly.

X2 what 5.7Hemi said . . . but I also leveled any flat, surface that I could put a level on - in the trunk, and the core support too . . . better safe than sorry.

As I was tacking them in place, I would check the doors to make sure that they still were closing freely and not binding . . . good luck ! !

 

[hunt2elk]

Never had a car that the doors would bind shut just because it was up on a lift. IMO, if that happens, something else is wrong.

Had a 69 Road Runner convertible that you really didn't want to open the doors up on when it was on a lift.

 

[440beep]

Yea, when the Bee's on a lift I can open the doors, just can't close them afterwards. I will see if the muffler shop with the good welding guys have a drive on lift and will use that method. But even with the Bee sitting on the ground on all 4 tires the driver side door can be finicky occasionally.

 

[Cranky]

Had a 69 Road Runner convertible that you really didn't want to open the doors up on when it was on a lift.

A rag top I can understand. My 70 Challenger was that way too and you could see the windshield header shake on rough roads. A hardtop is the next weakest structure. I've mainly had E body cars over the years and all of my B body cars have been coupes or sedans and never experienced any door problems with them. Didn't give much thought about the hardtops being so flexible until this thread. Maybe that's why I like the coupes and sedans so much? Naw. Always did like the 68-70 B body coupes and I've had 3 66 Belvedere sedans and have 2 66's 2dr post cars now.

 

[Kern Dog]

Never had a car that the doors would bind shut just because it was up on a lift. IMO, if that happens, something else is wrong.

I agree here. It seems that while these unibody cars do flex a little, unless you have a Dana 60 with 44" tires, the droop of the suspension shouldn't sag the body that much.
Still, I prefer to lift the car on my 2 post lift, then set tall jackstands under the car. I lower the lift just enough so most of the weight is bearing on the stands. The lift is still in place though so there is no risk of failure.

 

[ckessel]

Did anyone notice that the car in the MM article is missing the 1k+ pounds of weight hanging off the front end?AKA engine, trans, front suspension, k-frame, brakes etc etc. If your car is like that, then you should be able to use a two post lift. Still check your door opening and closing though before you make an issue permanent.

 

[MarPar]

Didn't give much thought about the hardtops being so flexible until this thread.

yep. the dreaded hardtop b-pillar split. I heard about it long ago when I first started searchin for the GTXer.

mine isn't too bad right now, but it will be addressed...at the same time as the subframe connectors go in.

 

[440beep]

The muffler shop had a drive on lift so we did it that way. Sub frame connectors successfully welded in and only charged $90 for the work. But of course I gave the guy extra $$ on the side.

Thanks for all the advice!!

 

[Dennis H]

Good deal. Good price. I tip too when getting a deal. These installs are over-thought. Tuesdays, August, 50% humidity. Let us know how it drives and how the doors and trunk etc feel when handling. The first drive on a familiar washboard street was amazing difference.

 

[440beep]

Yea, I thought the driver side door issue was fixed, but yesterday it took me three tries to get the door closed. For all I know it could be tired hinges. But the car does feel firmer for sure.