Is it time to rebuild?

[OldToys]

I have two threads I want to combine them for some advise. long story short, I lost oil pressure in my 440 A-12 and come to find out I have a bronze scrocket on my intermediate oil shaft and it did break apart. I will confirm but I believe I have a standard cast iron flat tappit cam. I do not have any history on the engine, so I can't explain why i have the bronze sprocket. I also notice my oil slinger is on backwards and coming apart I found several small peices in the oil pan. The engine ran fine before the breakdown. I don't race normally but have a friend that can't leave well enough alone. The timing chain appears to be alittle loose, I'm not sure whats within tolerance but can confirm. The oil pan is already off, I could replace the oil pump, shaft & steel gear. pull the timing chain cover and replace oil slinger, chain and gear set if needed. This would let me drive it though the summer and fall then if needed tear it down over the winter. I dont want to do further damage, so option two is just pull it and rebuild the engine, the engine builder I use is about two months out but I'm trying not to let that influence my decision.
Whats your thoughts?

 

[davek]

something breaks means something is floating around in the engine. You could wash it all down and chance it. I would tear it down. Cheaper now before you ruin something.

 

[Demonic]

Easy to inspect the main and rod bearings now. If they're still good, you can get the summer out of it. New chain, intermediate shaft, button it up and drive.

 

[dvw]

If it ran fine, check the bearings and pump. Shrapnel goes thru the pump before the filter. If the pump gears look good there wasnt much floating around. Replace the worn chain, oil pump drive and run It. If there isnt a roller cam in it it shouldnt need a bronze distributor gear.
Doug

 

[OldToys]

Here’s the deciding factor

the bushing was scared up.

 

[OldToys]

I had a friend off work and ready to help, I found a machine shop that could start as soon as I got it out. I don’t think he figured we would get it out today.

 

[Johnpat]

Go for it

 

[OldToys]

I’m surprised it was running so well when in such bad shape. It ran pretty strong no smoke and sounded fine. It was very tired and and on its last leg. Much worse then I thought it would be.
Time to get excited about have a fresh engine.

 

[wyrmrider]

be sure to pull all the plugs and take out the cam bearings before hot tank
lots of places where that crap can hide

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Make sure the shop rebuilding it uses pistons with a compression height of at least 2.058....

Do Not let them throw a generic rebuilder cast piston in it...

 

[wyrmrider]

what wild said x2
if stock open chamber heads best choice are the KB quench dome pistons

 

[451Mopar]

Wow, there was alot of stuff going through that engine that was not oil.
I wiped out a single cam lobe on my 360, and I though I found it pretty quick, but I still had to re-hone all the cylinders, new rings, and replace the bearings and oil pump.

 

[PRHeads]

Good call taking it apart.

It’s already been rebuilt before, and had Sealed Power forged pistons in it.

Looks like there was some valve to piston contact at some point, as the piston didn’t come with the little “eyebrow”.

If you scrape the carbon off the top of one of those there should be a part number stamped into it.

 

[PRHeads]

if stock open chamber heads best choice are the KB quench dome pistons

That’s what I’d use.

 

[WP29440SE]

damn that is ugly. I can't believe it didn't spin a bearing or 4. hopefully the crank isn't chunked

 

[OldToys]

BTW the parts are dated 2014,
The block is #matching and still retains the 3906 heads.
I am thinking of using 440 source Stealth Aluminum heads, Any reason not to?

 

[wyrmrider]

no reason unless matching numbers make a difference
use pistons with a D dish not a circular dish with compression height to give you .010 to 0.0 deck
then gasket to give ..30- .040 head to block
ie .028 gasket with .010 deck gives gives you .038 quench
dish size wit gasket volume and chamber wil give you compression
FT pistons will give you too much compression in most cases
when you take your heads off measure piston decks at all four corners
then use your current pistons compression height to determine new pistons compression height required

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Good call taking it apart.

It’s already been rebuilt before, and had Sealed Power forged pistons in it.

Looks like there was some valve to piston contact at some point, as the piston didn’t come with the little “eyebrow”.

View attachment 960151 View attachment 960152

Yup, I was looking at that too...

no reason unless matching numbers make a difference
use pistons with a D dish not a circular dish with compression height to give you .010 to 0.0 deck
then gasket to give ..30- .040 head to block
ie .028 gasket with .010 deck gives gives you .038 quench
dish size wit gasket volume and chamber wil give you compression
FT pistons will give you too much compression in most cases
when you take your heads off measure piston decks at all four corners
then use your current pistons compression height to determine new pistons compression height required

Something like the Icon IC836 which has a 12cc dish... Funny 383's you can't hardly build cylinder pressure, a 440 it's easy to build more than you really want on a street car...

 

[PRHeads]

I would def be on board with new closed chamber aluminum heads.
- KB 237’s .005 down the hole
- 80cc chamber
- .040 gasket

That puts you right at 10:1.